evildky

snap on, smart probe

you can also sadn it out with a rol loc and a die grinder, or chemically get rid of it aircraft remover I believe will eat it

L28ET, just add a larger turbo and injectors and you're there

I ran a catch can for a while, never collected a single drop so I pulled it out and just vent to atmosphere

I've not messed with MS2 but MS1 only supports up to 4 coil drivers so it would have to be wated spark

the msd 6a has a pair of wires taht go direct to the coil and nothing else should be connected to the coil, the white wire should go the the ignition out on the MS and of course the MSD box has constant, switched and ground as well as a tach output, be sure your switched power to the MSD box is hot while cranking

custome pistons, will get you any ratio you want

widest tire on a Z32? well stock TT rear wheels are 8.5" wide, stck tire si a 245mm, I know with propper offset you can run a 10.5" wide wheel, and at least a 275mm tire

moby's first maps were with stock turbo etc and proved to be a great starting point for many of us

is it possible thta it's not smoke but condensation and carbon spitting out? which is an indicator or a rich condition, smoke however is a different story, when does it smoke? start up? WOT? the smoke what you cann black< blue? white? each indicates something different

you need to host the picture somehwere first, like photobucket, looks like you linked to your hard disk, anyhow, the stock struts are hollow, you open up the gland nut at top and pull the guts out, the illumina's slide in and are held in place with new gland nuts included with the shocks

also keep in mind when removing them you don't need to save them, if they prove difficult you can use a small pipe wrench with a cheter pipe, worst case tak the manifold off and take ti to the machine shop they generally charge about $10 per bolt to drill and tap should you break one off

the 83 has an R200 for sure, your axles will work fine but you might have to modify your driveshaft or change the pinion flange, the only advantage tot he R200 is it's a bit stronger not really worth the drama without gainign the LSD IMHO

someone might have also swapped a 5 speed from a 78 and needed the diff or at least the pinion flange to use the driveshaft that came with the 5 speed, or maybe they tanked their diff and found a suitable 78 replacement

2.2

it was burned, I am sure i had it set right the first time which is why it took me so long to find the problem, this is the ECU and car I ran at the GRM challenge last year, I had a problem with my thermal values and when I went to curn new values with easytherm I accidentally had the wrong firmware selected, wiped out the ecu and had to start from scratch, and the old MSNS code isn;'s as easy to find anymore, although I found it I decided to upgrade I upgrade to the 029y4 code, still had a heck of a time getting it to load the thermal values, it kept giving me boot load errors, all while trying to make it run on my newer vista laptop using a USB port, as I was having datalogging errors with my old laptop and it didn't support the newer megatune build, if I can do a bit mroe tunign I hope to run it at a local autocross this weekend

ok I am running MSE on my VG30ET, had an issue which turned out to the the trigger was set to inverted, turned iversion off and worked like a charm, did little tuning had the car idling like a champ, suddenly it sputered and died, and wouldn't restart, I check the settings the spark is inverted again? how do the settings change themselves? anyone ever had this issue? I shanged it back and it's OK so far, but hate the thought if this happeneing again say duing an autocross BTW it's the VG distributor with the L28 trigger wheel and an HEI module, basically the same as moby's L28ET setup

yes you need hot when cranking as well otherwise the MS unit will nto ahve power and your engine will crank with no fuel or spark

and you can always run the 77-78 dual pistone setup, you'll need the whole backing plate, hardware adn the hard line that goes to the master, but it all just bolt up, I ran this before upgrading to rear disks

I think moby and matt made it clear that if the main relay is cycling off and on it's a problem independent of the megasquirt, your problem going away with the alternator unplugged further proves this, sounds like you are alternator is overcharging and overheating the relay and or the megasquirt, the electrical systems in these old cars suck, I suggest you pull all non critical fuses, I've had overcharge issues due to horn and wiper circuits

sounds like you are a bit confused, read adn reread moby'd writeup, then start reading the megamanual, then read it again, the MS needs one constant hot formt he battery, and one swithed hot signal most likely taken form one of the plugs coming from the chassis wiring to the old engine harness which I assume you have removed, this has no bearing on your accessories, if you don't understand after althat readng you might want to hire someon who has a better grasp of whats going on

yes thts correct but if it confuses you just go to your local autoparts store and buy a standard automotive 5 pin relay, they contacts are labled with the same numbers shown on the schematic

Engine: 183k mile junkyard turbo motor with 1 mil metal HG turbo: T3O4E I/C: Treadstone vertical flow Injectors: 440cc DSM ECU: MegasquirtnSpark v2.2 board 299 whp 305 lbft

hybrid z's "manage attachments" feature won't accept the msq file type, same for photobucket, anyone know a a site that will host it?

or you can buy the socuniversal socket retractor tool at autozone for $5, or you can just use a pair of needle nose pliers and use them to turn the piston in