evildky

are you talking abotu the diff or the subframe? the subframe is pretty mush the smae as the s13/s14 subframe that a few people have swapped in, it requires a fair bit of cutting

I had the 280/max brake swap with z31 cv's and had no clearance issues, the e-brake cables need to be moved a bit but no biggie, the sway bar end links had to be cut down to clear the cv's but otherwise trouble free

the wheel diameter has very little to do with the fitment, the same offset used on 16x8's will be the same offset you need, which I believe is still zero, the tire might be an issue, I doubt's you'll be able to fir much more than a 225 series tire and it will of course need to be a very low aspect ratio

I think th eproble is that the market didn't see fit to develop a bolt on power adder for the z32 since the factory beat them to it, most people simply do the full TT swap, get a frotn cut and get to work or you can swap in the VQ35DE and have the same amont of power gain without the extra piping, of course with the turbo it's a lot easier to add power and everythign just bolts in, aside form the minor radiator supprt mod

I believe all 240sx tb's are the same I believe I got mine fomr a manual trans, I recmoend the boneyard so you can get the tps and tb in one shot, the tps does not bolt directly to the s30/s130 tb

looks pretty safe, but I'd lean out the idle a bit, no need for a rich idle

if you want to make power, get the ARP headstuds and the multilayer metal HG, source wherever you can find the best deal

about the hood clearance issue, why not do the old v8 s30 trick and space the crossmsmber from the chassis, this has been done for years on the hybrid z's, of course you can't take it too far but that extra 1/2 inch can make a huge difference

the z32 fuel injector pigtails are just a little different form standard bosch connectors, you can buy bosch connectors cheap from summit but the alignment pin won't allow you to use them, I replaced the connectors on my z32 with a set I bought on ebay, there are people who sell new nissan replacment connectors for sheap on ebay

I used to run 225 50 15's and decided I simply could not get the power to the ground or carry the speed in the turns, I went a bit extreme, and upped to 295's up front and 315's in the rear, not I have more tire than cna use due to lack fo weight, my car weighs only 2105 lbs, and the throttle requires a delicate touch to keep they dorm spinning, loking back I think 265's on a 10" wheel would have yielded about as much result with less clearance issues and less weight, each of my CCW's with tire weighs about 50 lbs, not heavy enough to be an issue at my hp to weight ratio but might be a bit much

might have the settings wrong in MS

I run 2" hotside and 2.5" cold side on my cars, my logic is that anything bigger than the turbo outlet is an opening for pressure drop, and then i try to match cold side piping to the tb, 2.75 being an odd size

are you talking about changing the initial admance or are you talking about changing the spark maps to a constant 30 degrees? reading through the megamanual section on timing and the ms posts in the megasquirt section should give an idea of where you maps should be to start

the easiest way is to get a complete running donor to take the whole engine, harness, ecu, mas,crossmsmber etc, you cna turbo the n/a engine but you'll need to remap the fuel for the higher compression

what ever happened to thagard? he was a wealth of knowledge, and had soe fantactic prices on garret turbo's, got my old T3O4E from him

I'm gonna guess you havn't done any wideband tuning? I'm still tweaking some of the low and high areas on my VG30ET, but I'm willing to wager you need more fuel at 6000 rpm than you do at 2000 rpm it's amazing how well the VE analyzer works when everyhting is working right and set up corectly

I'd imagine the block casting is the same but the mounts and brackets will likely differ, much like the Z31 and the VG pathy

looks like the maxima/s130 bracket to me, why do you think they are not? I had some just like that form ebay, worked great, till I upgraded to willwoods

yuppers, you need a donor datsun T5 to make it work even then it's not really worth the effort, just hold out for a propper datsun T5

they bolt right on, you will need the brake hardline that goes form the slage tot he rubber line, on the 240 the slave it att he top of the assy and the 280 it's at the bottom, kinda tired I might have taht reversed but you'll see when you look at them, only the 77-78 got the dual piston setup, thall the earlier cars got the single setup

yup, got me sticky

the trans crossmsmber will have to be modified, I simply cut mine and slid the center portion back selded it up and added some simple bracing, driveshaft will vary depending on your diff, the shifter hole lined up IIRC it is a bit tight with the fuel and brake lines through the trans tunnel on the early chassis

notice the "shocks" are compressed and nothing appears to be holding them? I suspect revalves oil dampers, in whihc case yes they will work, dampers do not have a happy zone like gas charged struts, so yes they will work, worse ase you ride a bit lower than intended

to achieve your gioal you'll also need engien managment, that will narrow your choices for injectors, the DSM's are abundant and cheap and the o-ring fue rail really cleans up the engine bay, many of us run Megasquirt, the Z31 ECU should be capable of your gioals but will need the corosponding injectors, as for intercooler kit, I believe there is a greedy kit but it costs as much as the car, I like the treadstone vertical flow intercoolers, and keep ean eye on the classifieds here you might find a deal

I would suspect a wiring or pickup issue, and you do have a switched power source to the MS taht's hot when cranking right?