evildky

I'm rpretty sure the ca trans falls into the same group as the ka and vg trannies, they can be made to work with the bellhousing swap, if you can locate a rpopper trans form ann L series you's save yourself lots of drama

don't forget the custom driveshaft, I didn't care for the angle it placed the trans at, I upgraded to the T5

did the pedal have as much stroke in the donor chassis? what bore is the master? what brakes are you running? remember it's about moving fluid, so that 10mm stroke wih the 15/16th master might be sufficient but maintaining stroke with a smaller master will move less fluid

flares? who needs flares!

I don't remember my exact offfset or backspace but my CCW' 17x11 front and 17x12 rears are the backspace suggested by john at CCW, there is actually room for another half inch of backspace on both

also interested in a front end, in a 280yz flavor

Denny is a very tallented builder and nice guy, that car was a site to behold, the Vette IFS was blended into the crx frame rails seemlessly, just amazing, and CLEAN, well every cars he builds is clean

I welded up some of the extra hoses in mine, I left one lower and one upper, I "T"'d thise lines together and ran a single line into the filler nick and removed the expansion tank, when I sumped and sealed my tank, I do get some starvation if I have less than a half tank on a long sweeper, I drilled many holes int he tank above the sump, I should have only drilled one in the middle to reduce the abulity of the fuel to slosh out of the sump

18 btdc IIRC

I have a walker turner drill press

no room for COP's? doing away with the COP ignition?

I believe the FP guys are running in the 600ln/in rates all around, I spoke with some people at GC before setteling on 440 lb/in all around, I decided I didn't liek it and changed to 350's int eh rear and love it, a lot fo it is personal preference

I actually stacked 2 on each side to get the clearance I needed for the oil pan (still about half an inch lower than stock mounts) and no I don't find them to be too rough, but the car isn't really street driven and yes the rubber dries up and cracks over time, I'm about due for some new pucks, but I started with the oldes ugliest pucks in my buddies puck bag you could alwys buy some derlin

check your local craigslist for an older floor unit, people tend to get tired fo these things sitting aroudn adn sell them barley used for a fraction of the cost new, if you are lucky you might find a heavy duty older model, i got a walker turner (fromt he 50's IIRC) from a shut down shop with a new motor on it, it's beig and heavy and quiet and smoothe, and I paid $75

looks like someone needs to start reading stickies

why not actual hockey pucks? thats what I'm using on my Z31, I just drilled a hole through them and ran a 5/8 grade 8 bolt

yes the crappy points distributor will work on the l28, but if you look around you can find the instructions to use the electronic distributors which will allow you to rev higher without that annoying sputter up high

I prefer the vg30et, the de require 90% more effort, drama and cost to get an extra 10% of result

I'm running 1 bar of boost on my vg30e with a t3O4E, ebay vertical i/c with dsm injectors wb tuned msns

it doens't change rideheight and if the VQ is lighter it should be sitting taller up front anyhow a 1" spacer would move the inboard side of the lca's down a bit, prettu much the same as running 1" lowering springs, I agree it's no ideal suspension geometry but I'd rather do that than cut a hole in the hood and it's rare to see a Z32 at stock rideheight anymore

might want to take a look at the ficv, might be sticking, or just dirty

the dodge coil pack allows you to use regular plug wires, thats why so many of us run them, easier than getting the special ford plug wires

I wasn't suggesting building a custom crossmsmber, I was suggesting spacing the crossmsmber down form the chassis, it's a commn step in the V8S30 swap, just a matter of unbolting the 2 bolts on each side of the crossmsmber where it bolts to the chassis, putting a 1/2 piece fo steel plate with the correct holes and putting the bolts back in, you move the engine down and gain hood clearance, and it's minor enough your steering etc shouldn't be effected

I like the coil bracket but plan to use the dodge pack and I mounted my edis wheel ont he back of the crank pulley and clocked to to pickup on the driver side between the 2 bolts onthe drivers side of the timing cover

I'm not sure how the n/a is wired but I believe the hot on the coil is a part of the chassis wirign and you cna keep it to power your coil, the negetive I believe goes to the stock ecu as well and the tach, if it doesn't go into the engine harness then I suppose it just feeds the tach and you cna leave it in place, as for powering your MS, first and formost wire up your hot power, to the battery , then take your switched power form wherever you like, it's realy just a trigger signal to turn the unit on your stock fuelpump relay should still work you'll just need to pull the trigger wire out and run the ms fuelpump trigger wire to the trigger side of the relay