evildky

so I'm pretty much decided on the dual master setup and am considdering the aftermarket pedal assy fomr wilwood or tilton, my issue comes with the alignment, I dis a bit of measure of the stock box, pedals, height etc and it looks like their pedals will stick otu fomr the firewall about .25" mroe than stock, nto a big deal, the issue is it looks lie tye all use straight pedals, and ti fit them around the steeiring columnI'd need to move the pedals about 2" to the left, to be able to heal toe with the relocated pedals I'd also have to severly modify the skiny pedal, and I'm just not sure how awkward it would feel and if it's worth the effort or if I'm better off modifying the stock pedal box to use the duals so anyone runing aftermarket pedals; how did you moutn them? did you relocate the gas pedal? how does it feel having relocated pedals? am I missing some obvious offset pedal option in their catalogs?

no

a bad or open O2 sensor will cause the engine to run a bit rich, a bad chts will casue the engien to run stupid rich, and the afm allows you to tune a/f a bit

why would you want 12 posts if you only need 6? you would be running twice as many parts for no reason? are you wanting to dow COP? like say get 6 individual cop's form say a gm LS engine? or did I miss the part about running a V12?

could be a bad ignitr or a bad distributor, you can test the output form the distributor and the input to the ignitor with a snap on smart probe or similar

I understood the question, I guess you didn't understand the answer, the edis coil pack is wires up like 3 duel post packs, so you woudl wire them just as you would wire up 3 dual post coils on a multiple coiwasted spark setup, whatever means you woud use to fire you multiple coils should work fine you just wire into the edis pack as if you are wiring 3 dueal post coils, there are threads int he megasquirt section that detail which wire going into the pack does what so you cna wire it up, I'm just no sure how you coudl fire multiple coils without the aide of megasquirt or similar, to alternate signal between the 3 cspark channels

white, make finding leaks a snap

I believe you cna wire the edis pack for a simple wasted spark setup as edis is a wasted spark setup, you just have to isolate your 3 trigger wires and then route your plug wires accordingly, read though the posts in the megasquirt section for clarity ont he edis pack wiring

OMG, does no one read the whole thread, no one said they were the same as a/n, jic, I said to use a metric to a/n or jic fitting, the origional post was to get rid of the stock bolts and hoses as they don't fot the S30 chassis, by using the adpater you can get new lines and a new cooler that uses n/a, jic fittings, no one ever said they were compatible with the stock junk

uh yeah, I wouldn't trust the cut O ring, I bought a new one from my local machine shop, they had to order it, and I had to buy a pack of 5 but the total cost was only like $12 dollars with shipping and tax

I would stitch weld in addition to th eplug or rosette welds, also the early chassis had the trans moutnt oo far forward, so you'll want to place ti car enough back to line up wiht the mount on the T5 so you won't have to modify the crossmember as well

zedd findings sells the pans and rails for the S130

no

15" swastica's and my keizers cleared the outlaws

maybe I got one of the rejects, not sure how old thepan itself is, I got it form a buds abandoned project, had the azc web address cast (poorly) into the bottom of the pan (I ground it off) the bolt flange is also obviously oversized and not centered, perhaps he has since refined the product?

seafoam=snake oil

ust a heads up for any who plan such a combo, the AZC Aluminum oil pan does NOT clear ARP main studs, fortunaely the pan is thick enough that will alt he needed gringding it doesn't go all the way through the pan, just a PITA to find out when you are trying to assymble an engine

hey curt, when it stops running, check the plugs, if they are wet the car is flooding, might have a bad CHTS, causing the car to run rich when cold it's not as big of an issue but ince warmed up fuel fowls the plugs, this also explains the exhaust backfire

the stub axle angles on the S130 are wrong, and the S130 uses springs that are twice the diamter of the S30 springs and will nto fit inside the fornt strut towers on the S30, and the S230 rear uses a trailign arm, the springs sit in a completely different psition and are also larger than the S30 strut towers

I put one on the rotissarie with the windshield in, no issues

as much as I love my Z's theey just don't handle like an MR2, actually the first gen MR2 was the great handler, I wasn't so impressed wiht the secone gem myself but I've seen others so amazing things with them

you are of course correct, my brain was faragged from allt he searchign and reading could a mod please change the titel to rear "dual master"

so you are doing this wiht a turbo L24 at moderate boost levels! you've got nothing to complain about

looks like Lunar240z and jmortensen both have done this, but I've not seen any follow up with how happy they are with the setup, how happy are you wiht your master cylinder sixe selection and the increased leverage position, I'm thinking this is what I want to do with my autocross car, I contacted tilton and with my stock pedal ratio of 4:1 they recomend 7/8 front and 13/16 rear masters, just wanted to collect thought form those who've done this

I don't recall the actual lenght of the housings being different but the struts themselves are longer on the 280 IIRC, the 280Z is made fo thicker metal so the ID is smaller