evildky

bad ignotor? got a smart probe?

yup, and the steel ones are called JIC by the way, and you cna get them at hydraulic hose fittings shops cheaper than a/n

the t5 bolts to the stock block and backing plate

I don't know the part number, we're talking 5 years back, but yes the horn worked

all the manual trans backing plates are the same, the auto's have the extra removable section at the bottom to access the torque convertor bolts

I don't recall which wire set fomr the 6al you use but yes it works wiht the 75-78 electronic distributor, or you can use the white wire and hook it to the earlier points style distributor

I think you ahveto pull the diff and e brake handle to get the out, I got tired and cut mine, I planned on replumbing anyhow

stock brake distance or time is irrellivant, either they had posession of the lane and you hit them, or you had posession of the lane and she pulled dout in front of you, it's obvious you hit her but the question is wh had posession of the lane

the zx with the r200's got cv's, at least the later ones did, the driveshaft will likely need to be changed, the pinion flange on the R200 will almost definitely be different form the one on the r180, there are a few different r200 flanges so maybe one fo them will work but the r180 flange won't fit the r200 pinion

I had one that simply would not com out, I welded the shaft to the gland nut, then cut flat spots on the shaft and wiht the aid of a 4ft pipe and a pipe wrench I finally got it

same roof in both cars, the seats are different as are the seat brackets, the fornt brackets on the 280 might be a touch lower, most aftermarket or later model seats are thicker in the bottom than the stock seats, so if headroom is an issue stock seats are your best bet if you still don't fit, cut out the seat brackets and fab lower ones or just bolt the seat to the floor

sometimes fuel pumps fail when warm and work when cool

I took my grant wheel and adapter form my 280 and bolted it right in my 240Z

blasting won't hurt the threads, and if oyu get paint in them when you paint just run a tap through them before you assymble

If I Recall Correctly I'm getting older and me memory ain't gettig any better

your stock pinion mount will work IIRC you just turn it around, the mustache bar needs to be form a 75-78 280Z manual trans or 2+2, those are the models that came wiht the R200 IIRC

the FP autocross cars run stupid high compression ratios and are getting 250 ish whp on race fuel, not sure if they are getting all the gain from head shaving or block decking or both, tom holt is one of the FP guys and hybrid z member

open your wallet, an L31 stroker will ve the most potential to make power, but if you bargain shop you might be able to put together an engine for around $2000, then another $600-800 for tripple webbers

lol, I don't remember who all I happen to line up with but there are always some very fast Z cars at SEZ or DNI now I guess. I think that was when I ran the 12.6 with the slipping clutch after adding an intercooler and upping the boost, it's had a few mods since . My point was on a budget of almost nothing 12's are wthin reach with only a $3-500 turbo donor and a ceap intercooler. I don't see an n/a running as fast for a similar budget, and I don't see a V8 going much faster for the same budget. Granted Andy Nelson has built a V8 Z and few other cars that run mid 10's for $2000. He also just set a couple of land speed records at Maxton (not a $2000 car), and wait till you see what he's building for next years GRM challange. But Andy shops swap meets, he's an engineer and gets the results he gets by building for a specific goal.

lets nto forget about the turbo swap, I did a junkyard L28ET swap and ran 13.010, if I had better slicks ir were willing to take the sawzal to the car I could have run a high 12

I had the craftsman version, it works great for cutting tube or bar stock, useless for sheet, and you have to keep adding consumable lube stocks, and mine died after only a hardful of uses and of course craftsman warranty on power tools is less than stellar, so I'm back to the chop saw

the S130 T5 is stronger than the KA trans, the peopel who swapped to the ka after swapping to the ka foudn them to be mroe fragile than the T5, the T5 also starts out with a much better shifter

eastwood sells a tank cleanign and sealing kit that inclludes metal wash and oyu supply your own etchign acic also adding some nuts and bolts to a length of chain will give the chain more bit int he cleaning process

you could take the complete system form an n/a 280Z injectors and all, taht would be the easiest, if you wanted something special you could do the Z31 ecu swap or megasquirt etc, or even the managment off a GV 3.8 could be made to work, just different items to have to adapt

so I'm pretty much decided on the dual master setup and am considdering the aftermarket pedal assy fomr wilwood or tilton, my issue comes with the alignment, I dis a bit of measure of the stock box, pedals, height etc and it looks like their pedals will stick otu fomr the firewall about .25" mroe than stock, nto a big deal, the issue is it looks lie tye all use straight pedals, and ti fit them around the steeiring columnI'd need to move the pedals about 2" to the left, to be able to heal toe with the relocated pedals I'd also have to severly modify the skiny pedal, and I'm just not sure how awkward it would feel and if it's worth the effort or if I'm better off modifying the stock pedal box to use the duals so anyone runing aftermarket pedals; how did you moutn them? did you relocate the gas pedal? how does it feel having relocated pedals? am I missing some obvious offset pedal option in their catalogs?