evildky

how about a pic? I'd like to see how you mounted it to the intake and how long it is

put it in an alpha GT6+, they came with a very similar inine 6 and they are small light anf cool as well as having a full frame! another option the Triumph TR6, camew with an inline 6, it's small and light and if you ground the datsun logo's off the valvecover most people would have no clue

you said the stock rating is for 33psi at idle and 43psi wot how many lbs of boost is that? and what is the psi @0 manifold pressure? what are your power and boost goals? what are you trying to acomplish? I had one of those on my car for a while it worked fine and made tuning a bit easier, I had to upgrade to a larger unit when I upgraded my fuel system

why not just have an aluminum shaft made? they only cost a few hendred for a full custom shaft

I shortened mine in place, I have yet to install it but it's all shortened and rethreaded

keep in mind the 3.1 is a .120 overbore! and it's been done on the F54 as well ans the N47, I'd think your .060 should be no problem at all

no, not even close

well then your in luck, pretty much every Nissan/Datsun product running the r200 ran a lower ration than a 4.11:1 most Z's from 75?-89 ran the long snout R200, with 3.54 being the most common ratio and 3.7 being a bit more rare but quite popular, search around you'll find all sorts of applications and ratio's

OUCH! sorry to hear you popped it but good thing it was at home and not all the way down at Reynolds How do you get the I/C completely clear of compressor material? you gotta cut the tanks off? and why were you only running 13lbs? high compression motor?

I have a traditional "Cherry picker" but I tend to use my "lifting frame" (basically like an "A Frame" but my legs resemble an inverted "T", I made out of scrap a coupla years ago)with a hand crank and block and tackle, no legs hanging under the car to get in the way of bottom work

I had tons of fuel delivery problems from my stock 71 tank even when running carbs, mine turned out that the origional pickup had colgged years ago and some prior ownder had added a new pickup tube which was a copper tube cut at an angle and brazed into the side of the tank and pointing kinda towards the bottom middle of the tank, and inside the stock tank was a simple short "wall" running front to back right over the crain plug about 2 inches takk and this was the only baffeling in the tank, the stock pickup tube went to roughly the same place I sumped my tank just to be certain I got the fuel I needed, I then ran from the sump a 1/2 aliminum line to the front of the tank with an inline fuel filter to a msd pump and then I ran 3/8 aluminum fuel line all the way up to my palnet o-ring fuel rail and into the aeromotor rising rate fuel pressure regulator and all the way back to the tank to a bulkhead I installed on the front of the tank, no more fuel problems

hey good to know there are in fact 2 carquests in Louisville, nowhere near my house but i get to drive past 2 napa's and 2 autozone's and a pepboys to get to it!

I just want to know what hose to buy and dave frn AZ said it was carquest part #22373, wo don't have carquest in my area, if I could just get a fitment or a manufacturer part number I'd be good

there was a rather lengthy weight thread about a year ago and I recal being quite impressed at how light some of the 280's had gotten, I'm sure it would take forever to find

exactly, I destroyed one trying to get the wheel out and turbo distributors are far too far and few between to be destroying them changing the wheel, be sure you have a spare as for what constitutes a shortcoming in a system, if you can't afford it it is a shortcoming! and building the MSnS system scares a lot of people off as well as the open source code nature and remember it's not just cas as discussed it's the wheel in the distributor and if your came apart so easily you are very lucky, after destroying one I've decided to leave them alone

I wasn't putting down the z31 swap it just has it's own set of shortcomings as no option is perfect in my opinion Z31 ECU problems: to the wiring difficulty (I'm sure it's been done enough now that it's better documented) the optical distributor disk swap (you ever pull the disk out of a zx optical distributor? easier said than done) you have to run a MAF ( I'm not a fan of additional piping if I don't have to) Locked Program (it's still a stock ECU so it's locked and changes on the fly are not gonna happen) No add ons ( it runs the engine and that's it (no add ons and special features) if you add bigger injectors to get higher peak power your fuel maps are now too rich on the bottom MSnS Problems: YOU HAVE TO BUILD IT! (actualy it seems a lot of people are offering assembled units now) you have to make your own harness (this is actually easier than it sounds and it helps in troubleshooting that you built it) Moast stand alones problems: THEY ARE FREAKIN EXPENSIVE! (I'm a cheap bastard) like I said none are perfect it just seems to me if your gonna go through the trouble to do any of the managment system swaps you might want to add features and be able to tune the system to perform best with your particular setup

yes, a complete and total waste of tallent

alcohol injection raises the octane of the intake charge as well as cooling it but still 25 psi is pretty impressive!

anyone running the Arizona Z Car aluminum radiator? I'm trying to get one but the upper hose has me baffeled, dave at arizona sent me a part number for the hose but it was a parts store part number for a chain we don't have around here, anyone know either a namebrand part number or what application this uper hose is intended for?

when I dyno'd I had the stock injectors in place, with megasquirt I am running DSM 450cc's, as for max safe boost I think the 10psi rule is due to the lean condition at top, when I dynod I had the base pressure way up with a rising rate FPR and still went lean and right about 10 psi it started to ping, once I got the MSnS I started turing up the boost and on a hot day at about 14 psi it pings so I backed it off a touch The combustion chamber is a bad design but the Bosch L Jetronic is the bigger barrier in making power and running bigger boost levels, not only is peak so much better the better fuel/spark curve has really opened up midrange power, it's like driving a different car and yeah I am quite happy with my 183k mile junkyard motor, I was worried and the car I got it out of was burried in the back of the junkyard for who knows how long I intend to build a replacement block before I upgrade turbo and shoot for 400whp but thats gonna be a while yet

here is the version 3 wiring map from megasquirt.info I couldn't find a pinout for the v3.0 but lit looks pretty much the same just minor changes

I have wondered about the head off of the RB20ET it's not a twin cam so it might line up better and it's a crossflow so it should be a marked improvement and being a singlecam the timing chain guides wouldn't be a huge issue another benefit the RB20ET is older and less desirable, it'd be harder to find but shoud be a LOT cheaper!

the mustache bar and output shafts are redily available as people around here go through some parts cars, also your local bone yards might be able to help as well

well for starters there was no 280Z in 72 only a 240Z and the 280z came out in 75, the R200 was in 76-78 i know, I'm not sure on the 75, you might want to get the vin number it sounds like this guy is confused, if it has a wide body look for rusr between the fiberglass outer fenders and the metal inners

I've got a viscous in a 78 housing with 78 ring and pinion gears, no spacers no problems, the car is pretty much trrace only and has been like this for 3 years now with no issues