cockerstar

How bad is the rust in the engine bay?

Darn Not what I was hoping to hear, but definitely what I expected! At least it's in the archives now for search purposes. Is there anything in a rattle-can that can be used as an acceptable sealer?

I know that Bondo isn't supposed to be exposed to moisture because it is a very porous material and will soak up water which leads to the rusting of the metal underneath it. I reskinned the sunroof on my 240z and I'm about 85% of the way done with the filler work, but in the down time when I haven't been able to work on my car the bondo has been rained on a handful of times and it gets the morning frost on a daily basis. I was wondering if there is any way to remove the moisture from the bondo so that all of the work I have done so far isn't lost. I was thinking something along the lines of bringing the car into the garage and using a hairdryer to heat the filler up and evaporate any moisture that it's holding onto. The only problem that I see with this is that bondo degrades under heat. Although I am unsure as to what temperature it goes at though. If I have to sand everything down to the metal again I am considering having a body shop do it so my roof comes out 100% straight and true. It all depends on their quote though Any input you guys have is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

I'll pull the valve cover off of one of my parts cars and see if I have a replacement in good condition. My initial thoughts were to JB Weld it so I'll be going down that route of I don't already have a good one. What kind of pressure do you think it will be seeing? My build is going to be very mild - l24, flattops, header, 4-puck clutch, 4 screw round-tops with the possibility of going with webbers down the line. I'm going to be needing anything too heavy duty.

Hey guys, I'm getting ready to put my rebuilt l24 with an e31 back into my 240 and I noticed a repair done by the PO, who did the engine rebuild. It looks like he tried to do some soldering, but it didn't turn out so well. How would you guys address this? I've attached a few pics for refrence Thanks in advance!

Looks decent to me...

PB Blaster is a solvent used to loosen up parts that are going to be known to bind up, especially corroded things. I think the other tube that you are talking about is the crank case ventilation tube. It isn't related to any part of the coolant at all. This is why running a consumable radiator cap is always a good idea

That's still easily worth it! I would say build a DD out of the '69 (with the triples, ~150-200hp, something fun and comfy) and build a weekend car out of the '72 with the l28et. The best of both worlds! Although a bit more expensive to do

Very clean install. Welds look great! Be sure to get everything painted up so it doesn't develop any unsightly surface rust

Thank God I don't have anything like that to worry about. I've got some very minor rust on my frame rails. How much longer 'till Mull posts on the subject?

I'm going to have to vote for the idea of exposed stacks. I think that adding a bubble to your current hood would go against the lines and overall look that you have already created. I don't think that the protruding stacks would kill the look at all; it would make it look all that more menacing

My engine is still on the stand and everything has 0 miles on it so there shouldn't be any wear to take into consideration. Compression testers are known to be horrible inaccurate because their main necessity is precision, so that would have to be taken into consideration. That would also involve having the engine installed and running

I've been searching, but still haven't been able to find the answer to my question so thread time it is. Is there any way to determine which kind of head gasket I have without pulling the head? My 240 came with a rebuilt engine, but it was on the stand and still is. I've checked everything over to make sure it looks good and the only thing I have left is to determine which headgasket I have so I can come up with a ballpark figure for my compression ratio. Engine is an l24 with flat-tops and an e31 head. I'm getting in the ballpark of 9.3:1 for a 1mm hg and 8.5:1 for a 2mm hg. Does this sound about right?

Uhhhh, Grumpy? This thread hasn't been posted in for more than 8 years...

rofl Well, then if you would like to keep it fulfilling its purpose the alternator should be great for you! What's making you want to upgrade?

It will work, but it is a 1 wire unit meaning that it doesn't go through any kind of voltage regulator. It just sends all of it's juice straight to the battery. Some people like them because of their simplicity, but it has the potential to overcharge the battery. Personally, I would try to find something else, but that doesn't mean that it will not work. What is the 'vett used for? DD? Race only?

It sounds like your are running extremely rich! You should be able to lean them out yourself after a little reading. Make sure to always know where you are starting from (number of turns) and where you have gone so you can go back if need be

If you're going to paint it I would suggest rustoleum satin black over rustoleum primer. It looks very crisp and holds up well.

Sounds like something that you would be able to find out over at www.classiczcars.com. They're more into the whole original thing. They like stock. We like fast

Planning on shaving the rear bumper while you're at it? I see that it's marked Have you considered shaving the engine bay of all the holes you won't be needing?

And Braap saves the day. I was about to come correct someone about the l24 being a carbed motor I don't think they would be that far from stock l28e injectors though. Do you have a haynes manual or something similar to refrence?

What made you want to rip out all of the electronics?

Now, for a practical multi engine swap, why not do 4 electric engines? One to each wheel. That should get you into the 800-1000 ft/lbs range for tq I'd imagine that it wouldn't be any harder to do the steering compared to a dual 4 banger swap.

Thanks Grumpy I have a feeling that he is telling me all of these opinions on what to do because it's very similar to what he did. 350 .030 over, flat tops, .447 lift cam, ported 1.94's, quadrajet carb, HEI, etc. That is the cam that I have. I just went and checked the spec sheet Is being a TOTAL #$%%^^ MIS MATCH to stock heads is very plain whenever the car is fired up. It's popped rocker studs before and the idle has to be brought way up to keep it from dying whenever it's put into gear. It's horrible. I'm not sure what the rear gear is. All I do know that it's an open 10 bolt. A specific parts list would be excellent, but I have a feeling that I'm not to that point yet What kind of build would you suggest for something in the $1-1.25k range? I know it's going to be fairly mild for that kind of price tag.

Well, since you are open to discussion on pretty much anything, I'd like some input/direction/advice. I'm currently building an engine for my dad's '69 camaro. Right now we're still in the phase of planning things out and deciding on everything. The best bang for the buck is the idea here. We currently have the following to work with and will be picking up whatever else is needed. -Complete 350 010 pulled as a runner from a chevy van. It looks like it's never been molested before. This is the block we're planning on using. Completely stock and sitting on a stand right now. -Current motor in the car right now. It's a 307 SBC and from what we can tell it just has a few bolt ons aside from the cam the po shoved into it. I say shoved because he neglected to add any supporting mods with it. Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock performer carb HEI Comp cam -- .501 lift, 292dur iirc headers > purple hornies - Turbo 350. It has a summit aluminum pan on it and a B&M full race shifter, but a stock converter so we're not sure if it has any work done to it or if it just has a few things tossed onto it. Now my dilema is as follows. I saw what you suggested a few posts up to get to ~400HP and that sounds like an excellent number. It has a lot of the things that I was planning on going with, but I'm having a buddy tell me that aluminum heads aren't worth the price and you can port stock 1.94's to flow just as well as an aftermarket head. Is .500 lift too high for a street motor? This same buddy is telling me that that much lift is just going to cause problems. What compression ratio should I be shooting for if I'm planning to stay on pump gas? What displacement do you prefer? 302(with the 265 crank), 350, or 383(with the 400 crank)? Did I get that right on the different stroking options? Thanks for your input Grumpy!