310z

TeemuM, The car looks very nice. I like the mirrors, I assume off of a motorcycle?

As stated I have never had my car dynoed but I have been the driver in my car when we compared the two cars side by side. In this case the 0.3 L advantage helps. Somewhere as expected the 3.1 L is making more horse power/ torque than a 289 hp motor that is dynoed, 289 hp is just a number. My car consistently out accelerates my friends 2.8 L. that has the number 289 hp attached to it at the crank. This demonstrates that two well prepared motors with head work, the same cams, and 45s make similar power with the 3.1 L making more as would be expected. However, in Steves 260z with the same 3.1 L displacement it is not making within 100 hp at the wheels of the Rebello 2.8 L at the crank. A 2.8 L making 289 hp is nothing to be embarrassed of. I would think Steve would be happier with a number at the wheels of 230 hp. In Steve's case it sounds like he is disappointed in the numbers made and I think you need to look at air flow. It could be a combination of carbs, cam, and/or head. Steve may not be interested in the $ per cubic hp numbers but it sounds like he would like to get his motor as dialed in as he can. Steve has gone the extra mile to build 3.1 L bottom end which usually indicates someone looking for more power, but limited the top end area of his build. This is an area that is easier to return to and build at a later time if he wishes.

WoW, she does love you. YOUR wife actually knows what you want.

Sorry to have to agree with Xnke but power is made in the head. I have no idea how much money I have in my motor/head although it is significant. Though I have never had my car put on a dyno I can tell you this. A Rebello built 2.8 L dynoed at 289 hp car with 3.90 limited slip and same transmission when run agents my Pettersen built 3.1 L with E88 head and tons of custom work, with same Robello cam although I run a 3.70 rear end and I have 0.3 L more displacement. My Pettersen 3.1 L smokes the Rebello 2.8 L. Now in Rebellos defense this 2.8 L was just a motor he had sitting on the shelf for sale nothing special. These two cars are very similar although my car has a heavy sound system 1900 watts and lots of Dyno Mat Extreme sound deadening. In My opinion your 40s and stock P90 head are starving the motor for air. You need head work and 45.

Prices have gone up but not that much. $8000 might even be high for that car. My car was in that kind of shape when I stripped it down to bare metal to start over again. I know of a great deal on a Z this weekend that a friend sold to a friend for $15,000. The body was great to start with. A $10,000 paint job that does not appeal to most was added, a Robello 2.8 L triple Webers at 289 hp.with 3800 miles on it, Willwoods all around, 3.90 limited slip R200 the car was redone from inside out bottom to top. Probably with an appealing paint job and some advertising it would have fetched $20,000 to $25,000.

Thanks for the post, some nice cars.

I run 16x8 -0 offset with Bridgestone G009 225-50-16 The car is lowered 1.5 in. I have 1/4 in. clearance to the inner spring perch. The inner lip of the finder has been ground down to the spot welds to allwe more clearance. When the suspension is compressed and the wheel is up in the wheel well I have 1/4 in. clearance at the finder lip. 1/4 in. allows for tire flex in either direction. I have never had a tire rub. The reason I mention the brand of tire and model is because even though the size may say they are the same such as 225-50-16 the tires may not measure the same. The Tire Rack has information on the products they sell. Click on the tire you are interested in and then click on Specs. such as I have listed below for you. This allows you to find a tire that might be wider or narrower as needed. You may find the brand you want may not fit and have to look to a brand that makes a narrower tire although listed as the same size. That is the basics. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+DZ102&partnum=25VR6DZ102&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes Now the rest of the story. While you are on the Tire Rack looking at 225- 50-15 you will notice that your options are very limited. All but one tire is a R compound rubber. If that is what you want that is good. If you want a true road tire and expect20,000- 40,000 miles and able to drive in cold temperatures, R compounds will not make you happy. So, you may look at a 225-45-15 they are slightly narrower than the 50 series with a lower profile and may work for your fitment. There are also a couple of non-R compound tires in that size. A 15 in. wheel looks great on a Z. However, tire options are drying up for those sizes. There are plenty of and will always be plenty of R compounds tires in 15 in. but many people are getting rid of their 15 in. wheels as there are not many tire options available. Another size that looks good on a Z in 15 in. is 205-60-15.

One of the reasons the L series is not pushed that far often is an RB is available and it is considered a better platform to start with. 700 hp with an RB is easy and reliable. If you are going to spend a lot of money sometimes it is wiser to start with a platform that has greater potential.

You could also add a few pop rivets.

I was going to suggest calling Robello. He has many custom cam grinds that work excellent on a Z. He typically does not give out the specifications as he keeps the secrets under wraps. However, if you describe what you want Dave can provide it. I run one of his cams on my 3.1 L it has power everywhere. This cam may be more than what you are looking for but if you are interested you can ask him about the cams he has been selling to Steve Pettersen of Pettersen Motorworks in Chico Ca.

That looks great.

The work looks great.

I am in North Eastern California at 4500 ft elevation. Temps range from -20 to 118. I also run a aluminum 9.5 lb fly wheel. I have no idea why you would de-stroke a stroker crank shaft. Having the extra stroke is the whole reason of having a V07 crank shaft. This is part of the displacement along with 89 mm pistons it takes to get to a 3.1 L. You can have the journals off set and use Honda rods to make a 3.2 L. If you are de-stroking a V07 crank shaft you might as well use a stock 280z crank. I am confused as to why you would be doing what you are doing.

Welcome to the site.Enjoy the ride. I do not mean to sound negative and I do not know how the availability of Z cars is in Australia, but If I was going to invest a lot of time and money I would want to start with a car with less rust. In your cars current condition you will have a lot of time and money tied up in just eliminating the really bad rust areas. If you work in a body shop and are acquiring skills for a life time job the project will be worth while. I have seen projects in other countries where the Z is rare start with cars with similar rust conditions. Evaluate your options before you have a lot of time and money invested. A Z from a non-coastal environment might be worth looking for. Then you can spend your money on performance goodies. Just my opinion and it may not fit your situation. Good luck and have fun.

I am not sure exactly what you are looking for as a answer. So, I have a 3.1 L and love it. Maintenance is no more than any other motor.The L series is one of the original run for ever motors without problems like a modern day Toyota Camry with performance. The carbs are only a problem if not set up properly. The key to setting up multiple carbs is purchasing high quality linkage. This may not come in a kit. The kit I had years ago had cast throttle arms. When you tighten them they would break. You may need to source a set of billet arms to fit your throttle shaft. I have never had a need to readjust the carb as they were set up right the first time. I do not hesitate to take my car anywhere. I do deem it as special and it is not a daily driver but, it has been on all day trips above 75 mph. with many blasts over 100 mph and averaged 24 mpg. I have also driven to the race track showed up 95% of all the cars there and driven home. The GT3, Turbo and Z06 were faster when their driver could keep them on the track. My 3.1 L is more reliable than even many modern cars. I have talked with guys who use to run 3.1 L and now run an RB putting out over 750 hp. I was told they had more fun driving the 3.1 L. The 3.1 L is a great motor although expensive to build. The grind of the cam will dictate the personality but a 3.1 L has torque everywhere in a very linear fashion. I run 10.79 :1 compression ratio and that works fine on 91 octane pump gas at the altitude I live. However, at lower altitudes and high temp result in pinging so keeping the revs up is crucial. Cool air on the coast the car loves. Hope this answers some questions you may have had. If not ask.

Excellent job representing our Zs, congratulations.

The only thing I did not like about ST is the powder coated color,Kermit green. The Kermit Green may work for some color combinations but not many. Powder coating is hard to remove though I did it. Then there is the expense of having them re-powder coated in a color that works with your color scheme. If ST would powder coat their product in lets say black like most parts under vehicles their customers would be happier with more cash in their pockets.

I think it is this one a Type I http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1404 Or it may be the same one I have with the light holes covered. Back when I ordered mine it was available with or without the license plate recess area. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1685

Here is mine. The springs are from a package I purchased with a set of KONIs' back in 1986. They were listed as European touring springs for the 240Z made by Tokeico. Wheels are BBS Magneisem Race Wheels 16x8 - 0 offset, 12.5 lbs. each. Tires 225-50-16 Bridgestone Potenzas

That whole package looks great.

BFG A/T KO There are two tread compounds made. Some have the mountain snow flake symbol and they are a softer compound. If you need a tire for the snow they are great but wear ot about 30,000. The tires without the symbol are a harder compound and last forever but do not work very well on snow and ice. If you want a good combo tire that works well everywhere but mainly on the Hi way look at the Michelin LTX A/T. Both are expensive but worth it. Discount Tire/American Tire or Costco have the best pricing.

I am assuming you are trying to say "Great idea to weld the metal headlight buckets to the fender". That was done to give the appearance of a one piece fender/headlight bucket. I feel the car was mostlikley originally designed that way. Then the bean counters and machinest said that would be to expensive to build as a one piece unit. So, we get the two piece fender/headlight bucket production line set up. As for your question about condensation. I am assumiming you are refering to the condensation that can form under the headlight covers. Welding the headlight bucket to the fender have nothing to do with sealing the headlight covers. So they can still condensate in certian weather conditions.

I do not ever remember seing a favorite headlight page. These are mine. The headlights are H-4 with 55 watt low beams and 100 watt high beams. The plastic headlight buckets were replaced with metal ones and welded onto the fenders. Riv-nuts were installed in the metal headlight buckets to hold the headlight covers in place.

I Had to back the Z out of the garage today to put some brake pads on my wifes car. It was lightly raining out side and I got these photos. Just thought I would remind you of what you are looking for.

I like mine, however they are they are real and your car deserves real ones.