aarang

Should we let you know now what items from the kit we want, or wait until the brackets are done?

I have one in my car and no issues with the hood. It was a tight fit, though. Mine did not have the rivnuts built in for mounting, so I used nuts and bolts.

+1 for me. Also maybe to lower the cost for some, would you be willing to sell the kit minus calipers/pads?

+2 for diesel oil. I have been running Chevron DELO 15w40 for over five years now in my L28et.

20 deg +or- 3 deg @ idle rpm.

My 70 year old mother bought a Yaris two door hatch a year ago brand new. She loves it. Granted it is a bit noisy inside but for the price point that is to be expected. It has alot of space inside for a small car and she comments how easy it is to see out of ( she is 4'9" tall) because of the centralized gauges. She also still prefers a 5 speed over an auto so that was a plus as well. She lives alone now so having a car that will likely have the least amount of issues was important.

Another thing to consider is I had more detonation problems when I was running a 180deg thermostat as apposed to a 160deg. What temp thermo are you running? I finally ditched the stock radiator and put in a aluminum radiator with twin Spal fans and a shroud. Just doing that also helped. I used to have wide temp swings with the stock radiator. My temps rarely get hot enough now to even turn the fans on @176 deg in 85+ deg weather.

#54 off in the distance in front of the forklift, looks like a Z

I agree with letitsnow, I had to run non-projector tip spark plugs. I have NGK BR8ES's gapped @ .030 in there now.

What cam are you running? I have been running my flat top P90 turbo for 5 years now with great results on the stock ZXT EFI. Granted, not much is stock accept for the bottom end, but I think cam selection for the higher comp makes a difference. I have a mild Delta Cams turbo regrind. If you don't have it already, you may want to consider at least the 'A' cam. Aaron

Design your own system....I drew a crude picture of my engine bay and figured which way I wanted to route the pipes first. Then I just drew in the pipes and figured which angles to use (45 or 90 deg, etc). Figure in the couplers, measure the straight lengths in the engine bay and your pretty much done. Not too hard with a plan. With the known angles you can buy one of the universal "kits" on fleabay with the correct amount of the lengths and angles you need.

The 1/2 inch NPT threads were double cut on my Pallnet rail. It leaked no matter what I tried including the 567 PST. The JB weld method was suggested to me, but I was not comfortable with that solution. I ended up welding some npt reducers into the rail. No leaks since then.

Sorry for the delay, I went with 17x9.5 zero offset for the rear and 17x8.5 +4 for the front. I could have gone zero offset for the front as well, but I am unsure of what I am doing with my brakes and or coilovers at the moment. I wanted to give my self a little wiggle room just in case. I can always run a small spacer if needed.

Nice ZX. The name is very fitting.

If you can find one of the early copies of Zcar magazine from the 90's,there was an article about a guy that built the same motor you are planning. I think they called it a "263 Z" or something along those lines.

I have a few sets of S12+8 for vented rotors, some of the later 80's 4cyl 4x4's had them. I would assume they would work as they have the same bolt pattern as the S12W. Can't wait for the kit to be ready.

If the S12W calipers are the main option, would the S12+8 calipers work as well? Also, would there be the option to buy the kit sans calipers? Thanks

Actually, it is 3.125, or 3 1/8.

Double what 30 ounce said, definitely get a good aftermarket shifter. I am using the Pro 5.0 shifter in mine.

I really like the sheet metal wing mounted to the rear louvers. You would think the downforce created would stop the sideways passing.

I use Redline MTL in mine. Shifts nice and it is approved for the yellow metals in these transmissions. I tried the Swepco and trans fluid mix in it before, but it made the shifting more notchy. I think you would be good with MTL or MT90.

I'm hoping the slide over rotor will work out.

Been running Chevron DELO 15W-40 for five years in my current turbo L28 with No problems. The guys at Delta Cams actually recommend it. Aaron

Reverse light switch. The other one you are speaking of is the neutral safety switch. I broke the same one on my last T-5.

As far as a rotor that slips over the hub adding 1/4 inch of thickness, I'm all for it(You could sell the 1/2 inch longer Quest van wheel studs with your kit). If it's a newer easier to find rotor that is off the shelf, that would be even better. With your kit, are you considering the S12 and S12W calipers like the S30? it would be nice to have a lighter aluminum caliper, though. Even a good twin piston would be OK.