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socorob

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Everything posted by socorob

  1. That was a great movie. At ZCON they rented out a theater and showed it. Very cool.
  2. I think the 90-92 Q45s are the big ones. They changed somewhat after that (I had both side by side at the JY a few years ago, but can't remember exactly what the differences were. The early Q45 halfshafts are 1/8" or so thicker than the 300/s13 R200 halfshafts also. When I was buidling my car, I wasn't sure if I wanted to go 5 lug or 4, so I pulled one setup of each kind since the complete unit with brakes were only $60 each from the JY. The early Q45 is a heavier unit.
  3. I traded my stock 78 wheels along with some other parts for my paint job, but in the meantime he sold his Z, but still has the wheels in Mandeville. I could put you in touch with him if you're looking for some to pick up locally.
  4. That's the difference between a 1960s designed engine vs a 1990s designed engine.
  5. I have the normal TTT control arms. I like the way you can adjust the tc rod connection point on these. It looks like it may let you get slightly more steering angle?
  6. What are the differences between the early and later revisions?
  7. I think the q45 is an r200 that uses the r230 output shafts. It may use the r230 input shaft too. The TTT mustache bar for the early q45 r200 is the same one for the r230. My friends TTT mustache bar for an r200 from a 300z/240sx is slightly different from mine, with a different part number on it.
  8. When I was still building my car a guy stopped by to see it and he did 3d aluminum printing. The company he worked for made parts for nasa. He said the stuff they mainly made using the 3d printing was too intricate to machine and casting wasn't strong enough to use for the parts.
  9. At 170mph, was everything shaking, or was it relatively smooth?
  10. How strong are the aluminum 3d prints? Would that be sufficiently strong enough for a bellhousing?
  11. If you do a dyno tune, they could probably squeeze out a few more hp for you too.
  12. Nice car, unfortunately for him, it seems one with 350 swaps never get much money on resale. I've seen several here when I was looking to get a Z, and never seen one top 5.5k no matter how nice and how much work was in it.
  13. I think I used the 4.5" also. Here's how I mounted them. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114638-1978-280z-gto-ls1-t56-ttt/page-5 post 90, nice solid fit. I ended up leaving the Datsun glass out of it, because using both gave too much of a glare sometimes.
  14. +1 for the champion, no problems on track or in traffic.
  15. I used a pvc pipe cap that the gauge fit tight in and it fit tight into the datsun bezel, so everything can be screwed down. Had my dome light fall off during an off track excursion, wouldn't want my gauges falling out.
  16. Keith, what rear ratio are you running? I get mid 20s or so on the interstate cruising in 6th, but around town it drinks gas. One reason is its hard to keep your foot out of it.
  17. I run 245s on either 7 or 8 inch wheel with stock fenders. If you went through the trouble of flaring, why wouldn't you go to something like a 10 inch wheel to be able to take advantage of all that rubber. Unless you're going for a hellaflush look as stated above.
  18. I hear some people have good results with helmholtz chambers. Some new cars even use them on the intake piping to quiet those down. They are supposed to be for drone, but was reading a post several months back where people said it quieted the car also, apparently with no hp loss.
  19. Anyone tried these, and can comment on fitment? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280Z-1977-1978-Door-Card-Panel-Set-Black-Pair-Panels-NEW-584-/221925002607?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item33abc2cd6f:g:VzYAAOSw9r1V91dR&vxp=mtr
  20. Doing something that sounds like that in a school parking lot would probably get you arrested.
  21. I think some engines require some flow through there, so on those you can't just block it off. Not sure if the LS does or not. I thought about putting the VA heater valve under the hood as gm had theirs, but at that point I was getting tired of working on the car and just wanted to finish it up to drive it. If it ever fails down the line I will look at putting it under the hood then.
  22. I'm sure you could use some manual valves and plumb it in the engine bay to do the same thing, just have to open it in winter and close it in summer. Mine is mounted inside the cabin close to the firewall, and if it has been a problem, I haven't noticed. My vintage air is cold enough.
  23. I put mine on the firewall up high on the inside passenger side, sort of where the old ac blower was, behind the whit bracket with all the plugs for the dash harness.
  24. Good idea, I'll try that first.
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