socorob

Are you sure they are drilled? I have seen a few sets like that over the years, and I doubt anyone would be able to drill a hole that accurately that close to another hole at home. I think some wheels used to come like that.

Check out the group buy on speedhuts.

Someone posted a link to O'reillys that showed that they had it on their website a few weeks ago.

I have a short nose r200 with the TTT mount. I haven't installed it yet so not sure how it even looks once mounted. What did you do to brace it?

I made some good progress lately. I spot welded just about everything from wheel well to wheel well. Yesterday I blasted the whole front area and bottom of the car and painted it with rust shield. That was something I don't care to do again, but the end result was worth it. Now to do a few small patches and seam seal, lizard skin, etc.

That's what i was wondering. Was it some sort of pace car?

I would like to do the same thing but keep all the lights. I have a 78 280 and I picked up 73 240 headlight buckets, valence, bumpers and turn signal pieces from the junk yard. I haven't gotten to where I see if they can all just cross over or not, but am interested in what you find out. I want a 280 with 240 turn signals.

This is what I had to do on an old British car once. There was no adapter kit made for it for the wheel I had. I went to oreillys and opened up all the grant adapter boxes until I found the one that looked like it was the closest to fit my wheel. I only was able to use the half that goes onto the steering wheel with the spring part that usually goes onto the clock spring. I had a piece of plastic conduit that happened to slide over my steering tube very tightly. I actually had to tap it on with a hammer. I got a big washer and drilled it out so the steering rod would fit through it without touching it. I put a screw through it where the conductor spring didn't slide around it so it wouldn't interfere. I connected the wire going into the car on the backside of that with a connector. Sort of a home made clock spring. That was for only 1 button though. You will just need to be creative.

I got mine from a 1991 Infiniti Q45. It has the larger CV shafts with 6 bolts, and is a 3.54 ratio. As mentioned above, try a local u pull it type of yard. I got the driveshaft to the brakes for $180.

Without the proper equipment it will work you really hard.

So it just started overheating? Maybe something is clogged? Steam vent ok? When I took my wife's car to get the timing belt changed there was a Toyota truck in there where a guy put the new radiator in and didn't take off the plug that was in the lower radiator port and it overheated and blew the head gasket. Also maybe the thermostat is too low. If it stays open the water may not be in the radiator long enough to cool. That's where the water restrictors come into play. Isn't 160 a little low for an LS thermostat?

So it just started overheating? Maybe something is clogged? Steam vent ok? When I took my wife's car to get the timing belt changed there was a Toyota truck in there where a guy put the new radiator in and didn't take off the plug that was in the lower radiator port and it overheated and blew the head gasket.

I would love to have a nice tow rig setup. This would be mine as long as I'm dreaming.

A coworker I had a long time ago said he bought one when they first came out. He said he got tired of not being able to find it in big parking lots with all the other huge cars back then, so he put a go kart flag on it so he could easily locate it.

Is that the car that legends say they dumped a bunch of them into the ocean?

Its like this, probably something you cant do yourself, but in the time he did the whole car, i doubt you'll have 1 door done with a small home sandblast setup. Compressor is a must, little home ones won't handle it at all. If you have a large tank twin cylinder, you may be able to sand blast but you'll be stopping a lot waiting for the compressor to catch up. It needs massive amounts of air.

You should use a supplied air respirator with sand. Silicosis is very bad. A friend of mine does media blasting. He uses plastic, sand, and glass. Plastic won't remove rust, but its a little cleaner and he does that in a booth. He is able to scoop it up with a shovel and run it through a filter to reuse it. He will then use sand on the rust spots. The glass is nice. It is mixed with a liquid solution so it makes no dust and you barely need any ppe. I'm not sure how much a setup for home use is, but there's a video of someone doing it in a garage and it only makes a mess a few feet around the perimeter of the car. It doesn't go everywhere.

Aren't those tired only rated for 40mph?

With the Taurus fan and Volvo relay, you get 2 speeds with the single fan. The low speed grounds the low speed relay and the high speed grounds the high speed side of the relay. There is a wiring diagram I think I found it on LS1 tech for this setup.

What kind of anti squat are you shooting for with your 4 link? I would imagine you would want a lot for a drag car. On my Sunbeam I got it pretty close to 0 so the back wouldn't really move up or down under acceleration, but I would think for best straight line traction you would want the back to rise up as much as it can.

I used performance trends suspension analyzer to design the 4 link in my straight axle car. It was pretty easy to use for that. It may be much more difficult to do an IRS.

Nice. I like when people put the cameras on the center of the roof so you get the view of the hood out in front too.

Just this week here a kid broke his back here in a crash because he slipped the shoulder part of his belt off and got in a wreck. He also got a lot of internal organ damage. Factory had at least some sort of crash testing, where your homemade seat belts probably won't undergo any sort of crash testing.

Stivva, you sure do like bright shoes on everything!

What is the purpose of the heim/clevis part in middle of the section?