frank280zx

All depends on how low you are What kind of coil overs etc can you get down under for these cars? BTW for sake of the this topic, my zxr has mixed z31 r32 suspension bits, and home made coil overs. The rear 5 lug swap is easy! it is literaly bolt on! The fronts take some adaption but you could use a z31 set up as i did on my ZXR So the rears swap fairly easy! You need to run the z31 cv's though. Good part is that apart from the hubs being a direct swap, so are the bearings, brake disk and 87 calipers!! Here comes the tricky part, between the two wheel bearings there is a spacer it needs to be the correct lenght, so mayby not as much tricky as needing the right parts for the job, and to be sure that you dont get funky bearing loads. Note that because the Z31 stub axle is tapered, use the Z31 distance piece (bearing spacer) as the Z31 “B” spacer is the same length (55.95mm) as the ZX “M” spacer. If your 280ZX rear lower control arm housing needs the “N” length spacer (55.85mm) use the corresponding Z31 “A” spacer and if you require the “P” length spacer (56.05mm) use the corresponding Z31 “C” spacer. This opens up a lot of possibilities for 280ZX applications as the Z31 stub axle came in three different varieties: a four-lug hub, a five-lug hub and a five-lug hub that used a vented rotor (which has a thicker wheel mounting flange). Utilizing either the turbo or the non-turbo Z31 companion flange you can use either the ZX CV axles (3 bearing joint) or the stronger Z31 turbo CV axles (with the 5 bearing joint). Strange thing performancewhise but I noticed that the diameter of the ZX stub axle is actually smaller (30mm vs. 32mm) than the first generation 1970-78 Z cars. The Z31 stub axle starts out at a 30mm diameter but then it tapers out to a diameter of 35mm where the wheel flange is. Nice upgrade. The fronts need some work to extend the control arm etc. nothing to fancy, but still something to take in to concideration The Track toy has an s13 coil over set up adapted to the stock bottom end (spindle).

Seem like a nice set up though the except i dont see usage of caster adjustment on a stock lower control arm. as it would just strain the bushing. To actually use them you need a heim joint adapted to your lower control arm (witch if you are serious about track times you would have to start with) So what would we do or have you done to control rear trailing arms. the kit offered by K-MAC would be nice for mild track use but as far as i can tell doesnt give me suffiecient movement. PLUS Lots of people on the e30forum.net board have them. on their beamers and supposedly DO NOT keep their alignment, no one I have talked to like's their K-Mac's style bushings, they don’t stay in position. so you keep adjusting. Only way (in my book) for a track or fast street car is a heim joint set up and some slotting if you dont mind the rattling! Im working on it right now for my track toy. Basically it will be like the guys with teh e30's do. being on tracks in europe you run into dozens of them, so why not 'borrow'a proven concept/ The e30 has traling arms like the z31 with a seperate strut and strut anyhow here is the 'magic' Note that this is not a good example but the only i could find, to make it work you need to move the pivot point. These adjusters only move a few millimeters, but suppose it could move 1". So let's adjust that outer toe adjuster on the right side of the photo a full 1" towards the top of the photo. Heim joints or not, that thing is going to bind up. Anyhow you catch my drift!

Haha ok Alan funny reply .. Anyhow it is the same as brits telling me that Land rover was the first 4x4 .. actually it was Spyker First mechanical 4WD (transfer case, drive shafts etc.) was built by the Dutch company Jacobus Spyker in 1902. Since the Lohner/Porsche four wheel drive has such an unusual status with its electric hub motors the Spyker is considered to be the world's first four wheel drive car. Back on topic.... I guess ones viewpoint all depends on your roots as proven in this this post!! Next as it has been pointed out earlier this is an US based forum so will carry an US point of view. Zee ZED Z ... it is all the same to me

Actually the z31 stuff does bolt in, with the rear brakes accordingly, just make sure you get the later calipers and machine (or if your going cheap) grind down the saddles about 0.5mm http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120603&highlight=s130+lug The fronts take some adaption but you could use a z31 set up as i did on my ZXR So the rears swap fairly easy! You need to run the z31 cv's though. Good part is that apart from the hubs being a direct swap, so are the bearings, brake disk and 87 calipers!! Here comes the tricky part, between the two wheel bearings there is a spacer it needs to be the correct lenght, so mayby not as much tricky as needing the right parts for the job, and to be sure that you dont get funky bearing loads. Note that because the Z31 stub axle is tapered, use the Z31 distance piece (bearing spacer) as the Z31 “B” spacer is the same length (55.95mm) as the ZX “M” spacer. If your 280ZX rear lower control arm housing needs the “N” length spacer (55.85mm) use the corresponding Z31 “A” spacer and if you require the “P” length spacer (56.05mm) use the corresponding Z31 “C” spacer. This opens up a lot of possibilities for 280ZX applications as the Z31 stub axle came in three different varieties: a four-lug hub, a five-lug hub and a five-lug hub that used a vented rotor (which has a thicker wheel mounting flange). Utilizing either the turbo or the non-turbo Z31 companion flange you can use either the ZX CV axles (3 bearing joint) or the stronger Z31 turbo CV axles (with the 5 bearing joint). Strange thing performancewhise but I noticed that the diameter of the ZX stub axle is actually smaller (30mm vs. 32mm) than the first generation 1970-78 Z cars. The Z31 stub axle starts out at a 30mm diameter but then it tapers out to a diameter of 35mm where the wheel flange is. Nice upgrade. The fronts need some work to extend the control arm etc. nothing to fancy, but still something to take in to concideration.

Well hence my sig .. i dont think i stick to "combinations everyone else has" Anyhow the sarcasm in my post is because the question is asked in the manner it was put there.. If you need to ask it is not going to happen! ON the oher hand im all for all diffrent swaps.. but sort of tired of questions : "can i put yada yada in my car?" Everything is possible with enough time funds and and a sence of willingness!

While where at it ... can i make my zx into a seagoing boat with a pool deck guys ? can i Can i ?

Intigiung idea..!! But apart from the cost and added weight factor, if it would be the way to go wouldnt you see it on rally and track cars more ? I think the most effective way to (temporary) cool down the airtemp would be a cryo bar!

As you might imagine (being from europe) im very aware of diffrences in european engines compared to the US market. what is a showa protocol engine ? and would it not be easier/cheaper to build or stroke an engine yourself? Anyway id love to have a tap into JDM parts for some rims for my zx Lucekly the UK has a decent flom of the nice parts being they also have RHD's

Well i know the seem not to be the greatest in qaulity or valving.. but then i wonder how good the tockicos would be.. The alternative would be revalved and shortened Koni's orso to your personal specifications. Illuminas a great for street use .. but on track they are nor good to avarange... And for the prize of a KSport (or DC/BC or all other same set ups with a diffrent brand name) we cant complain. They are not Intrax or Reigers, they run 1500 a corner and up. For the prize at least they are a good alternative over the Tokico's. Hence there is not much more to buy stateside.. ANd yes you read hhorror about them blowing etc .. but i guess allot has to do with going to low and bottoming out the tube, any strut would be dumster ready after some encounters with the bottom valve.. Basically Ksport is the SSautochrome of struts... you can get lucky, they are decent.. but far from perfect....

Well i fly halfway over the world and load clean Z's into 40 footers. BUT i dont think the 30 miles is really the issue at hand. If i read between the lines i feel you want us to justify the fact your broke and want to spend the 200 bucks .. Id say be resourceful, find a job or sell the parts or the entire engine, or whatver .. if you want to make cash there is always (a legal) way to do so Frank

It wasnt meant as harsh as i state it btw. SInce you are down under you have acces to more goodies that then the US market .. or better more JDM goodies

I was just putting it into perspective haha i got my isma kit for my race car I love this bumber however the red car in this treath is the first one where it looks off to me, as mostly they where on slammed to the ground cars with big wheels! But then agian i like the aritaspeed gnose better in all cases! And those run about 400 to 500 from 280zforce! (in the US)

I dont think it is ... The us is just lucky with the cheap aftermarkert support .. But look at it this way: A stock e39 M sport fron bumber will set you back €550 that is more than 650USD .. and that is minus the hardware that goes with it.. If you want to be diffrent it goes at a prize (two fists of yen to be exact )here you go http://www.aritaspeed.com/

Dude read what 260DET... Anyway try searching aritaspeed and bring a fist full of yen!

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7FAD/50-1436

scrolling over teh big picture id say a stock s30 with a Gnose of some kind

seems to be Nissan Micra JN100H is a micra

[qoute]BTW, i use my car for autocross, daily driving, rallycross, and drag racing. I also want to be able to drive it long distances without any problems, and i want to beable to get 20mpg if possible or better. i hear stories of ppl getting over 20-25+mpg with tripple carbs when tuned properly.[/qoute] First of EFI would be your best bet!!.. second does nobody think the qouted is kind of akward? Rallycross, autocross, drag racing.. and 20 mpg hahah!! eeehm make up your mind

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KSPORT-PRO-COILOVERS-SPRINGS-78-84-DATSUN-NISSAN-280ZX_W0QQitemZ270460234462QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ef8afaade&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116 Now that is nice for an s130 !

wow that seems like a gem you bought there at 300!! (seems solid and in good shape)

Funny it makes it look like a s130 at first glance untill you not the rounder fenders and qauter window.

ahum *cough* you had one in your hand friday *cough*

I dont know the aftermarket in finland, but ebay sells loads of them. bnasically it is called a 'tuner'lugnut, 240sx (s13) and 350z fit. Note you nead a 1.25 thread nut

They weigh 18LBS (15X8's) a wheel measured on the scale at beta motorsport. I run em to, and for that money you cant beat em! For a street wheel they are great value for money. For a track wheel they might be on the heavy side, but then agian im not a pro track driver by any means so i doubt id note the diffrence. One side not the stock lenght lug on a zx is on the short side for my likings, so longer wheel studs would be my 02 cents

Indeed the Ronal R10's or a devriate to them like Ronal turbo Phase 1's. This is a Renault 5 turbo rally car version, apart from the size and color seems to be what your friend has there! They are worth decent cash in the VW Golf 1 and 2 scene and the e30 and suchs bimmer scene Here for a guideline: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74213 a set for 425.. but they are a 4 X 100 bolt pattern and more civalized in size. In europe that same set would see 5 to 600 euro's This is based on for sale ads sourced now, so i have no clue what skywalker is talking about.. they are GREAT rims but by no means a set of Watanabe rs's in that size! Basically with a 4x 114.3 bolt pattern that willl rule them out, next to that they are to wide for the golf guys leaving the Bimmer crowd (apart from the bolt pattern a 635 kan take some wheels) here you see em like we see em on 'tuning' shows but also on the ring Mostly they would be passing you there nomatter how many hp you have haha Anyway i dont know how much they are 'worth'but i for that matter would give my kidneys for those in my s130 isma widebodyproject. and expect them to sell somewhere in the 1000 tot low 1500 region. If he decides to sell id love to talk to they guy!