Tony D

Wrinkle Paint ala "Moosezilla" the Topless VW Microbus featured in the early 80's in DB&HVW's! Just a hose to "wash"--helps if the Color you paint it is congruent with local mud/dirt.

VW Flat Four... But be VERY careful with the Datsun asymmetric grind. If you are not RIGHT on the heel of the cam when adjusting clearance you will likely be "loose" a thou or two, and as a result be down slightly on performance. If you "jiggle" the cam slightly from those two positions, you get a much better result.

So buy an OSG head and put it on your L20A...

Yes, it is...

A 280Z has a 5 MPH bumper, which is more than strong enough to bolt a generic tongue to and start off croo pun try. The shocks holding the bumper are stronger attachments than anything you will make otherwise. All that under car stuff is unrequited on a Fat-Bumper Car. Go ask U-Haul for a hitch for an 83 ZX, that is your basic pattern for the 74/6-78 fat-bumper cars. I bolted the old bumper hitch from my dad's 77 Impala onto the 280Z I had, it fit like a glove. Four holes and some fine thread bolts fished inside to out with Class C metal locknuts and it was done in about 30 minutes. The "customisation" on 5mph external chromed bumpers consists softly of the locking mechanism inside the bumper that keeps the bolts from turning when you tighten the nuts...

Retread the mechanism I describe in my posts. Re torque procedures are clearly spelled out in the FSM. If you think this is to recompress the laminate, you need to re-read about "embedment"! Those fire rings seem to blow regularly on many people's cars... I don't overuse the sealant, half a tube is more than enough, and like anything it's imperative you read directions. Getting cheaper in my old age I am down to 1/4 tube now after rebuilds or head work and STILL don't experience the leak problems the vast majority of people Complaining about leaks do.

Yeah you missed the discussion of counter flow injection completely...

I did mine like JC, save I put a Class 3 receiver on it so I could use accessories. I've pulled a trailer coast to coast and back, pulled stumps, pulled other Z-Cars...

I would second FricFrac's kit. If you're cheap, go to the junkyard looking as I guided. I got the same kit ISPKI spoke of, and if you are going to buy new: BUY THOSE! Best out there, bar none, and everything to do it right.

Maglev Bearings are coming, industrials have used them for years in oil free process compressors. First had maglev power sources that were the size of a Hummer, now the smaller stuff (400hp range) has a maglev power module no bigger than a couple of briefcases.

If you have them on an LHD Car, that is where they go. They will be dismal there on an RHD Car. They were labeled RHD & LHD By the original diagrammer, Alan Thomas. People were getting poor results putting them in the wrong position. Imagine that, huh?

No I meant it as written. As you approach redline, you go towards som inches of hg from the initial zero at WOT. normally, at 9" you are on the idle/transition with a barely cracked throttle. But in this case you are at WOT and come back up to 9" from 0". It is this progressive raise that gives you more fuel. You use accel shot to dump fuel into manifold or 0", no depression exists at idle or transition ports to draw fuel. The accel shot gives you that initial kick from 0" to accelerate the engine to a speed range where a very faint depression (raised by the booster Venturi) starts sucking on the mains. As rpms rise, your depression in the booster Venturi (also "amplifier Venturi") increases pulling harder. On the main jet. In the "swan neck" of jet well, up emulsion tube, past air corrector then back down to booster Venturi...the draw becomes harder and harder, the air corrector lets in more air to lean out he top end. Too small, you go way rich. Drop throttle, loss of amplifier signal, your air corrector acts as a vacuum break so your mains don't siphon themselves into the throats thrown simple siphon action. **** I would agree that the transition lean is almost always caused by an idle jet too small. You just aren't having luck with your ore plugs!!! Keep at it, you sound close!

Hey, you're in Statesville! My ex lives in Statesville. You poor bastard, watch out!

Pressure is merely a reflection of restriction to FLOW. If you have high flowrates (leakage) from a set volume of pump delivery, you will have low pressure from that variable set. Change any one of the variables, and pressures observed will be changed. Pumps only impart FLOW, pressure is the result of restriction to the imparted flow. This pump is not 'constant displacement' -- it is 'variable linear displacement' as it's flow varies with RPM. It is important to note that LOSSES (flow) can be variable in a different slope depending on RPM. Some engines have things that 'go oval' at higher rpms, and as a result they loose pressure on the top end. Generally it raises linearly with rpm, and the losses remain similarly linear. Do things on the front end (-10 wet sump modification) and your pressure jumps on the back end (oil pressure gauge) with nothing else done because your imparted flow from the pump increase 40% or some ungodly number like that. Same for turbo pump, but it takes horsepower to drive it, and higher than necessary oil pressure costs you horsepower in windage, pump drive losses, hell---you could even spin the timing on a load reversal due to high pump loading! Restrict flow on the suction side, and your pressure observed will be less on the outlet side as the flow is restricted. "I am mainly just trying to make sure there is not any kind of issues that the L28s have with starvation under side loads."

Yes, they are all the same AMP Connector. Different on TPS & AFM Junkyard prospects are Volvo 240's which see", to have better quick-release connectors and rubber on the strain-relief boots, with my preference being Toyotas for the AFM connector because it has a 90 degree boot, and gold plated pins (which need moving around to matchDatsun Configuration.)

"Canton Accusump" Sounds like you suck the pan of oil, and until it drains back, you suck aerated wind age slung off the crank. Competition pans are 7qts for just this reason.

Yep, if its not "numbers matching" the prime reason collectors look is gone. Unless you have the service paperwork and a "no serial number" service block replacement (only VERY EARLY cars got these!) In fact, we have an original owner 240Z owner in the club that blew the original uncounterweighted crank AUTOCROSSING the car, and has one of those. In fact, I'm club historian, and have photos in the club album of the day it blew, and him smiling fiendishly later in the dealer service drive with the paperwork (and even later that year at open track events and AUTOCROSSING the replacement engine!) THAT car, even though it doesn't have "matching numbers" has PROVENANCE and a STORY... And THAT is the stuff people PAY for!

You track or datalog MAP? You will find when you come on the cam, that you can see your MAP change... as you run up the RPM range you start going from "'0" manifold vacuum towards maybe 9" on a stock car. This is near redline.... But the fact of the matter is, as you start going from "0" and then actually drawing harder in the main venturi, you go rich. That is what the air-corrector is supposed to 'correct'... At 9" mercury, you SHOULD be on the IDLE jet, and your MAIN can't draw in through the booster venturi at that point. But once WOT, you are drawing through your booster venturi....and if you start raising vacuum again you go WAY RICH wihtout that air bleed up there to break that suction and siphoning raw fuel into the booster. Actually you have 9" in the main manifold, but in the booster you are back up in the 12" or higher...and sucking that hard starts pulling air in the corrector. I HOPE that makes sense as to how that thing is suppose to work. They are looking at me to LEAVE so I gotta pack up and get out of this office!

German TUV and Japan have similar perforation requirements. Universally they are taken care of by putting metal tape on the holes and then body undercoating heavily to hide evidence of any repairs. You then repair when it suits you. That repair will work just as good as welding. And if it's TUV passable, it's 1,000,000 times better than any stateside 'safety' inspection. Not to get political, but surveys have repeatedly shown absolutely NO correlation between states with safety inspections and any statistical impact on mechanical-related deaths or injuries. They are identical between inspection and non-inspection states. Somewhere around 4% of all accidents involve a mechanical failure. Really, all it does is force people into garages that can get the inspection franchise for the state to give them business. And I'm sure bribery to pass is common. What are the penalties for a shop caught passing "unsafe" vehicles, and how is it quantified? It's all subjective, and people (as in any state with safety inspections) know where to go to "get the easy pass." Now, you want a REAL brake check? TUV/Holland...puts your car on a rolling road with wheel dynoes, and when you hit the brakes if there is a 3% variance side-to side you FAIL! No soup for you! Something about being let into the Bar-Under 200 Lane on the A1 I suppose... Conversely, though, there is a statistical correlation with Emissions Testing and cleaner air. And at least in CA, even when bribery was possible it STILL cleaned the air. It's much more Difficult these days to get a 'easy pass' or 'clean pipe' simply from the sting operations and PUNITIVE fines and penalties imposed on the techs doing the work.... Bigtime hammer falls! I took an out-of-state truck into be smog tested in January... Tech was an older guy, is real interested in what I have in back says "What's in the back of the truck?" "BAR90 SMOG Machine" Took me 1 1/2 hours to get my test done! Guy checked, rechecked, then rechecked AGAIN everything. I mean, the truck was CLEAN (as in 0.0 on NOx!) for a Federal Emissions Vehicle, I piped clean to CA standards, and he was SURE I was a Sting Plant. Poor Guy! I just needed a Smog to get my registration...which I still don't have... but let's not GO THERE!

I have a draft from work to you Sean! Looks like we are passing ships. I should simply send you the Pay Pal (or fedex that check when I get to town in April.) As for who's looking for VIN's---that all depends on where and how you market it. Nobody would believe I got people who paid $2,200 for a rolling shell of an early 260Z... but there is a market out there. Just have to find it!

YES! They are also called Rosette Rivets as well. OEM's will use them to attach data plates to castings. I didn't mention them because I couldn't tell you where to find them! I stole a ziplock bag from the production floor in either Davidson or Export...some time ago, probably Davidson, but could have been Holyoke as well... Small sheetmetal screws are similar in action. Real high-dollar answer is to get a flush-seal plug that size and tap it (like in the head under the valve train...) Unless you are a production shop, the cost for the two or three tap sizes you would need could be considered "prohibitive"... definitely not NPT!

Guys, COME ON! There is NO DOUBT this is a post 6.76 280Z: 1) EFI Relays in the Engine Bay 2) AFM mount in the Engine Bay 3) Distinctive 76 Seat Belt Assemblies. 4) Distinctive "Raised Floor for Full Sized Spare" 6.76-till space saver in 77/78 with FLAT (not ANGLED) read parcel area. 5) Fuel Warning Light in Dash 6) Volts Gauge (not Amps) 7) Turn Signals in Grille 8) 280Z Lower Valence Do I need to continue? There is NO WAY IN HELL this car is ANYTHING OTHER than a 280Z! A LATE MODEL 280Z at that! Now, start thinking on what is MISSING from a 280Z, or how they got carbs to work, and you start getting into some scary thoughts. I mean, "what bumpers go on this car, and where are their mounts?" FRP Cosmetic things (or do you have to buy them and figure that out?) How did they adapt the late-mode EFI tank to the smaller barbs on Low-Pressure Fuel Pumps (just tighten that clamp HARD?) Like I said: This thing is painted bright and shiny to attract what I call "Car Buying Crows"---named for a Crow's Propensity to see a shimmering glinty object snatch it up and fly back to the nest with it...with absolutely NO use for what they got. You find them with rings, watches, tin foil... as long as it's pretty, shiny, and catches you eye "SQUAWK! GOTTA HAVE IT! SQUAWK!" and swoop in you get. BEWARE!!! Don't be a "Car Buying Crow!" All that shimmers is not gold! Alsa paint makes a nice chrome turd! And I KNOW Turdy Z-Cars. In fact, I own Turdy Z-Cars.... I think I own Turdy-Five right now...

Body Welding... My buddy spent $1,300 in 1979 doing rust repair on his '69 Monza Coupe. In 1989, I bought a '66 Corsa Turbo for $1,600. Had we thought outside our diseased Michigan-Raised box... We would have made Tony & Torre's Most Excellent Corvair Road Trip! Argh! Never again!

Wipers up: ersatz strakes to improve airflow at high speeds... I was going to reconstruct my spoiler out of conveyor rubber and rod... But now they have those ultrasonic parking aids...could easily put one up front as out back. Though steep driveways would still be a pain...

Bribery usually works...