jgkurz

I agree with the T04E with a 50 trim compressor. Peak flow occurs around a pressure ratio of ~2.5 or 23psi. This translates to ~47.5lb/min which is roughly 475hp. For the turbine, use a stage 3 or stage 5 turbine wheel. Stage 3 will spool faster but supports less HP. Make sure to use a .63 turbine housing. 3" exhaust is a MUST in my experienced opinion. If you are using a Nissan L28ET exhaust manifold you will need a .50 AR compressor housing if no spacer is used. For reference, .60 AR compressor housing is usually preferred with the T04E turbos but not critical. Hope that helps. T04E Map: http://majesticturbo.com/30375.html

I currently own an S30 but have also owned and enjoyed an 83 280ZXT. They both have their advantages. My preference for the S30 is more sentimental. To me the S30 lines are beautiful where a properly accessorized S130 looks like it's going 100mph parked.. To each their own.

Like with a small block, big blocks now can be stroked and bored well past their original size. With a big block you have the exterior size and weight penalty, but you can still maintain a safe bore thickness and rod/stroke ratio at huge cubic inches. A small block at say 460ci has bragging rights, but due to extreme bore sizes and other factors may not be ideal for any type of endurance, boosted or high RPM use. The other problem with big blocks is the cost. If you want to build a huge block stroker motor you will arguably pay twice as much as a small block. In the end, you could have an 800hp big block that runs on 93 octane pump gas. Take a look at the latest Hot Rod mag for reference. Try that with a small block... NOT. BTW, a boosted stroker Windsor is the next motor project for my 77z.... This is what I'm saving up for... http://www.dartheads.com/products/engine-blocks/ford-blocks/ford-aluminum-blocks.html

drummingpariah, just as a point of reference, TimZ's car uses ITB's and likely makes more power at ~710bhp than any street driven/driven turbo L28 ever in the history of time. A large intake plenum on his car might make the similar power but the results of his ITB setup is hard to dispute.

Yeah... That's the problem, no p/n unless I pull the cam. Thanks for the help Paul. No rush on the catalog, but if you find it it I'd be greatful for a copy of the SBC hydraulic page.

Hi Folks, I am working on a friends 283ci Chev in his 64 Nova and cannot remember the cam I put in it around 1992. I think it's a Crane Fireball. My Crane catalogs end at 1986. The Fireball series came out sometime afterward. The cam was broken in but the car was never driven. Now that we are restoring the car I have gut feeling that I put WAY too big of a cam in given the quality of the heads and compression. Let's just say I have a bit more wisdom about engines than I did 17 years ago... Does anyone of a Crane catalog circa 1992 that has the Fireball Hydraulic series for a small block Chevy? Side note: Crane is out of business so there is no pertinent information on the internet that I could find using Google or Bing.

Tony and Bo, Why the N42 and not a P90? Doesn't the N42 have less quench? I know TimZ has had amazing luck with his N42, but I was never sure whether that was inherent to the head design or just good preparation ie porting, blending, port matching, polishing, seats, coatings, etc....

I'm just seeing this thread. TimZ, From my perspective, the GT42R is a great match for your car. Looks like James knew what he was talking about...: ) You have room to grow on the top end and are nicely inside the surge line. The spool up flows through the high efficiency island perfectly. If the car ran well on E70, I'm guessing E85 won't move your plot much farther to the right if any. BTW, on your airflow plot, how much bhp are you making for 10lb/min? In other words, do you think you are making 700bhp at 70lb/min? It's my belief that modern engines (4v per cyl, variable cam timing, cross flow head) can achieve over 100HP for every 10lb/min of flow. I don't think our L28's can get there unless the engine is running right at peak VE. I am saving my penny's for a GT35R but according the thread it's not an ideal street turbo. That is if I trust the plots being shown. The GT3782 plots better but does not have the peak flow of a GT35R. I need a turbo that can flow 60lb/min. The GT35R has a great map until about 18psi then (according the the plots in this thread) surge would occur. My hope is that the plot on my car would pivot more to the right. In other words, I believe my plot on a GT35R would be inside the surge line at 22psi which I believe to be the max practical pressure for this turbo. My engine is 3.0L vs 2.8 and I have many flow enhancements leads me to believe that I will be moving more air sooner than the plots in this thread. Turbine size would also affect the plot. I suppose I could do my own plot based on my dyno pulls... hmmmmm

I'm having good luck with the Mr Gasket High Performance Thermostat p/n 4367. As long as I have air going through the radiator my car stays cool. If I'm stopped in traffic idling with the A/C on it starts creeping past half way on my water temp gauge. I have a single 16" electric fan without a full radiator shroud. It keeps up most times but just can't move enough air going through the large FMIC, Condensor and Radiator while idling on super hot days. Not much is going to solve that other than a shroud or more fan capacity. On my last track day it was about 82deg F and the water temp stayed well below half way on the gauge at all times. I've have never punished the car like I did that day and it stayed cool. Again, I believe this is because I had plenty of air moving through the radiator. One other tidbit, I use a ArizonaZ Aluminum radiatar, LD28 water pump, 60/40 EthylGly mix with Water Wetter and a 22psi cap to reduce boil in the head. Once I bypass cyl 4, 5 and 6 I'll go back to a normal psi cap. Mr Gasket Thermostat: http://tinyurl.com/mlduz4

What class will you race the car in at Bonneville? Please give us more details. There are several folks at HBZ that are involved with or own a land speed car that would be very excited to see another Z on the flats.

Having a street driven Z that run's 10's is impressive. Your car gives me hope I can get into the 10's if I go to the ET drag tires. Is your car certified for the 10's (roll bar, driveline lop, etc...) If not, did the track officials hassle you?

Tony, You are worthy of your Wiki title. Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts.

Great info Sean. Thanks for responding.

Just this weekend I noticed that my Walbro pump was MUCH louder. I especially noticed the louder whine when I pulled in the garage and could hear the pump from outside the car. Coincidentally I was also hearing a strange squeal noise coming from the gas tank. I popped my gas cap and it about sucked my arm into the tank. Looks like my cap is not properly venting. I restarted the car with the cap off and the pump was back to it's usual quiet self.

Thanks Bo! Looks like I'm starting a new project...

Sean and Bo, This is really interesting feedback. My car has always pinged slightly if I turn up the boost above 10psi. I have tried COLD plugs, various AFR's, ran more and less timing. Nothing made a difference other than higher octane fuel. The car runs really well and makes the power it should but I have always struggled with random pinging. (Note: I have a very sensitive ear and NEVER power through a ping) Thanks to your posts, I'm starting to think my rear cylinders may be the source of the pre-ignition. All, Is there any advantage to bypassing cyl 4, 5 and 6 or just 5 and 6?

The Quicktune feature looks interesting.... http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/QuickTune.html

Ummmmm. NO! This is a rice burner: This is not:

Greg, I would seriously consider the BHJ as well as the ATI. There are several folks on this list who have had great success with the BHJ. http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10&zenid=d50gsc8kj6t4096nf89ufru3e2

I fully admit the Wolf is better supported and has some desirable features that are absent on my Tec3. However..... the Tec3 was state of the art when I bought it and still does a decent job on my Z. At this time the cost/benefit analysis doesn't pencil out for a new Wolf. : ) As for MegaSquirt....I'll pass (Trying to be as polite as possible)

Whew!

A bit of a sad day.... The Electromotive forum (not hybridZ) that was introduced about a year ago is no longer available. I'm hoping they get it restored soon as it was really the only public support option for those of us that are running the Tec2 or Tec3 ECU's. http://www.electromotivegroup.com/

Simple but not far from the truth. I'm short on time right now so I have to be brief. My problem was not that I could not seal the ported wastegate hole but that the larger hole created a larger puck surface for boost pressure to push open the wastegate. Typically a small wastegate port will cause boost creep at higher RPM's. I had the opposite in that my boost would bleed off at higher RPMs. All that is behind me now that I have a external Tial wastegate. I suggest you not port your internal wastegate. It will just cause you more headaches. If you are running higher pressures with a T3 or T3/4 you will probably not need to bleed off as much pressure meaning a larger wastegate port will not necessarily be helpful. Remember, a large wastegate (as sized for your application) will bleed off boost great if you want to run low pressure boost. However, it will do a poor job of regulating boost at high boost pressure since more flow is going through the turbine and not through the wastegate. Hope that helps.

Wisdom at it's best. Get your education then put a twin turbo LS7 in when you have the $$$$. In the meantime, you can port match the head and unshroud valves yourself. Next have a quality shop that knows how to work on an L series head do the rebuild and back-cut the valves. You'll still have a grand left over for school. Seems like a win/win to me. (Sorry Paul)

In the same issue I also found the article comparing build cost between a small block Chevy and a small block Ford very interesting. The 383 Chevy seems to be the best bang for the buck. I'm both a Ford and a Chevy fan so I don't consider myself biased. At 500hp the cost was supposedly even but that was with a 2-bolt main 351W vs a 4-bolt 383. Obviously engine longevity was not compared.