beermanpete

Tow hooks for use at the race track or pulling the car out of a snow bank are typically offset. You are not likely to bend the frame with a reasonably straight pull.

No "best" allowed on HybridZ. How you use the car will determine which is likely to yield a result you are happy with.

Turn the radio up!

The most likely wiring problem that would cause this is the white wire going into the regulator might not be getting 12 volts from the alternator output/battery as it should. Also, the new regulator could be bad.

We removed and installed the studs with a hammer (all hubs off the car). We drilled 2 holes in a 4x4 to support the rear hub and allow the installed studs to protrude down into and on the outside of the 4x4 without hitting the ground. The front hub has the nose for the bearings facing out so you need 2 4x4s side by side with the hub between sitting on the edges of the flange. A hydraulic press is better but we did not have one. Regardless of how you push in the studs do what you can to keep the studs aligned with the center axis. A few of ours went slightly off axis and it makes the threads bind a bit while running the lug nuts down because we use the long shank mag style nuts. With taper seat nuts that won't be a problem but you still want to get the studs on axis the best you can. If you still have drum brakes it will bind on the holes in the brake drum as well.

Look at the factory service manual. The first 2 pages in the body section have some illustrations that might help.

It sounds electrical to me as well. If you do not find a problem with the wiring quickly use a test gauge to verify the actual oil pressure. Your local auto parts store may have a test gauge for rent.

The shaft slides out the back end of the steering tube. The manual shows three small screws that hold the upper steering tube to the lower steering tube. You might be able to get to these by removing the clamp that holds the steering tube to the brake pedal box and dash support.

Cut the spindle with a hacksaw on each side of the upright. This will allow you to get the control arm off. You should be able to press the shaft from the upright at this point. Take it to a local shop if you do not have a hydraulic press.

Certain 5-speeds do have slightly different gear ratios compared to the 4-speed but not significantly so. The only significant feature of the 5-speed is 5th gear. Assuming you leave the differential the same any performance changes will be very slight, especially for normal street driving.

Do you have a disc brake conversion installed? If so, perhaps the edge of the rotor is too close to the caliper and when hot is touching the caliper (and not perfectly round). Look for wear on the edge of the rotor and inside of the caliper to verify

We also use the ARP 100-7708 studs with good results. The knurl is a press fit in the hub and holds just fine.

Yes, the gauges get 12 volts. Is there any movement of the meters at all? Do you have the sending units connected?

Same here. I use the Firefox browser if that os relevant.

I suggest working on the car with problems that require the skill, tools, and related resources you already have or are most likely to learn and acquire easily. For me, I don't do body work and don't have the necessary tools for it so I would favor the car that needs mechanical repairs.

Perhaps he meant to fuse everything except the starter? That is what the fusible links are for in the factory set-up. The "main" fuse or fusible link needs to be able to handle the alternator current rating plus a little bit for some headroom.

We used a short piece of heater hose, a plug, and hose clamps. See the attached photo. Not the most elegant solution but it has been reliable for several years. Threading the housing will not work well. I think the next level up is to cut off the nipple and weld it closed.

I doubt that you would be able to start the car through a 120 amp fuse. You don't need a fuse there and it is not practicle due to the high current involved. As long as the routing and tie-down is done well and you use good grommets at the bulkheads you should be fine.

We plug all the holes for the heater and manifold heating. The only flow path is in at the pump and out at the thermostat.The engine is stock and we have a 3-row brass radiator. We use the car on the race track and have not experienced any overheating problems.

On the early years, up to 73, there is a small fitting on the side of the larger tube that goes to the evap system as well. Edit: I just saw you are in Germany. The evap system might be only on the US model.

Fusible links are not rated in amperes, they are sized like wire. The factory fusible link sizes are called out in the service manual. As a general rule a fusible link should be 4 wire sizes smaller that the wire it protects. Are you planning on using the 120 amp fuse for the starter, or everything but?

The 911 rear caliper uses a 3.0" bolt spacing. The 911 Turbo (930) uses a 3.5" bolt spacing.

It sounds like a mechancal problem in the tach. The movement in the early Z has two counter-acting springs. Perhaps one broke.

We have the battery in the back and used 1/0 cable on the positve. The ground is a short 4 gauge to the chassis near the battery and at the starter. I suspect that 0 gauge or even 1 gauge would be ok as well, The 1/0 is stiff and heavy.