SHO-Z

I did not say cheaters cause your eyes to go bad! Welding for extended lengths of time, i.e. working as a welder strains the eyes and is hard on the eyes. After a while puddle starts to get blurry even with glasses for most welders. Cheaters do have there place and will reduce eye strain when they are the proper strength for the welder. If you do not need a cheater they can cause strain the eye. Please be safe, you only have one set of eyes.

"CHEATERS" That’s what the old pipe welders call them. I welded for years without one until my eyes gave out. Unless you are already wearing glasses I would not use one. I promised myself that when I went to a 1.25 cheater I would quit welding for a living. Well the back gave out before the eyes did. I use a 1.00 in my hood now and it does help. If you use one with too much power you will never be able to focus on the weld.

I have had 3 Zs 240, 280 and now 260. This only one that I ever had a problem with was the 280 vapor locking when pulling my Hobie Cat over Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado. The 240 drove from Denver to Houston and back and got just under 30 MPG, The 280 went from Denver to Los Angeles twice and ran fine. Bough my 260 from my sister inlaw in Paso Robles CA and drove it to Bellingham WA and it ran fine, and it sat in a field for around 2 years when I bought it. The only real part I have ever had to replace was the alternator in the 280 and a rebuild shop installed a new diode plate for around $20.

Cheap welders are like cheap beer, not worth a darn. I used a borrowed cheap MIG welder on my convertible project. It would weld great on one bead and then I would fight it on the next. I spent more time fighting the welder and grinding out welds than I ever should have. Go to your local welding store and find out when they will have there next sale on.

There is a thread on using camaro front hubs on a Z. Do a search this has been discussed before.

Contact this group. http://www.desertzassociation.com/

Which one is better? I have looked through the internet and really cannot find any difference. I have found more stories of dead MSD boxes than Mallory. The only big difference I can see is I can save some cash on the Mallory box. My stock ignition need some help at idle to clean up the high HC for emissions test. Please give me some feed back on which one to buy, I have never run one of these boxes.

Two strokes require the gas/oil mixture going through the lower end for lubrication. The crank seals are not designed for a whole lot of pressure. If you really want to get some more HP out of the machine install an expansion chamber installed for the engine, match the ports between the lower end cases and the barrel. If it has a chrome lined barrel you cannot do much with the ports in the cylinder area. Another old trick is the stuff the crank. Some cranks have holes in them, we used to fill these holes with magnesium and get some added HP. If the engine has reed valves in the intake get some high performance ones that are a little more flexible. Hopping up a 2 stroke is a whole new world. To put a turbo you would have to have some type of electric oil pump to lube the turbo. If you could turbo a 2 stroke and make it run Saab would have had them on there 2 stroke rally cars back in the 50 and 60s .

Old Shade Tree Mech trick. Start the engine an let it idle. Pull off one spark plug at a time. If the noise goes away on any of the plugs it is a rod.

Mallory #4309 Bypass Fuel Regulator is what you need. Hook it into your intake box on the carbs. I am working on a simular set up with side drafts. I do not think the stock fuel pump will put out the required pressure so will use a electric fuel pump.

My 260 also has a problem with high HC at idle and the AZ emissions. Under load it passes with flying colors! I have the down draft webers and have tried about everything. I think mine is a problem with the ignition at idle not being hot enough. I have found some advice on the web recommending putting in a multi spark unit to clean some of this up. I have the stock 260 ignition with all of the resistors and such so the voltage is around 9 volts to the coil. I just bought a 280zx distributor to upgrade the ignition and will be installing a multi spark unit and coil at that time. My next step if this does not work is a 2 stage cat. Keep me informed on your solution.

I think you need to look at the intake and exhaust. Put a cool air set up behind the grill with an open end box to force the air into the air cleaner when driving. The exhaust header and free flow exhaust system. This is the most bang for the buck to get mileage that I know. We got better than 60 MPG out of a BMW 700 Sport Coupe in an economy rally back in the 60s. And that thing would chow Mini Coopers any day of the week.

Just got thru the AZ summer and will start working in the garage now. Really do not have anything done in that we are also selling our house and do not want to have the Z half done then take it on a road trip. Will keep everyone informed on the progress.

Ok, Here if you really want to do it use plastic. Fiberglass in the holes from the back side; you will have to drop the gas tank. Rough the heck out of the inside of the body panel. Cut the glass about 6" larger than the hole, is bumper mounds and the like. Dip the glass in the resin and stretch in over the inside of the hole. Wait until it is well set up and then fill the outside with a thin coat of quality flexible body filler, do not use bondo. Go to an auto paint store. You can add a piece of sheet metal a little larger than the hole if you want to. I would just lead it in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I used 50/50 when it was readily available at the local hardware store, or work when I worked in the pipe trades. What you really need is this. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=1681&keyword=31127 This is 30% tin and 70% lead, so where a respirator when you grind on it you do not need to breath lead dust. I use Nocorrode for flux since it was the best stuff for soldering copper pipe, and works on body work too. I use a LP troche for soldering and take my time. Of course I now have a Lincoln 135 mig under my bench right now so you know how I would do this work now. I am looking at doing a hot rod project in future and will do all of the body work in lead. The technique that I use is use the troche on a lower heat heating the area that I am working on. I start melting the solder on the area also tinning the filler panel. Start rubbing the solder bar on the area and use the candled cloth to smooth the solder. With practice the old timers would fill an area that will surprise you. Ever wonder why the old 50s Lincoln hot rods were called “LEAD SLEDSâ€.

I really do not remember, being and old fart. I got the MSA kit around 2.5 years ago. So it was what MSA was selling the kit, "ON SALE". They were a pain to mount. They came twisted all to hell. I had to both glue them with the adhesive strips that they glue to trim on new cars and had to use some flat head screws. I blended the edges of side skirts with flexible body filler.

If you overlap the holes, ie, put the filler metal on the back side you can solder the holes closed with body solder/lead. Clean both pieces of metal till they are bright and shinny, the drill some small holes for pup rivets. Apply some solder flux to the area and pop rivet the piece in. Now solder the piece in with the body solder/lead. Use cotton cloth that candle wax rubbed on it the smooth the solder/lead. It will take some practice, just remember this is how body work was done before BONDO. Grind off the pop rivets and fill them in with solder.

Here is what I have

Not to change the subject greatly but you do not need a TIG to weld aluminum. A lot of grades of aluminum can by Oxy Acetylene gas welded. This is how the original Cobra bodies were welded together. I welded some aluminum plate around 20 years ago on a job. It took a little while to get the feel of it, of course I had another welder looking over my shoulder giving me some help.

Unless you are going to TIG aluminum, any good DC welder will TIG any type of steel around. It could be a hole lot cheaper to have aluminum done by someone else.

With all of the oil and gas down there, you might want to try every engineering firm that you can find. Try applying as an entry level piping designer. There is a real shortage in the industry for designers across the country. From what you are willing to work for you might get someone to hire you.

I have a set of acura intrga sedan seats in z. I had to cut the bases and drill narrow the seats to fit the Z seat rails. I did it about 6 years ago so really do not remember the particulars.

You might want to look at this post on a 240 turbo. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97054

Think about your ears, mine ring like a SOB because of noise on construction jobs. Turn down knob and enjoy the music. This constant ringing is no fun!

I get the same boost using the original calc. Have fun on the project.