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If you replace all the stock bleed valves with speed bleeders, it's super easy to bleed the entire system yourself.

For starters, it sounds as though your reaction disk has fallen out of position in the brake booster. Search here for reaction disk repair...it's an easy fix, if that's what's happened. Next, did you go with a bigger MC when you installed the rear discs? I think most people choose a 1" MC when doing rear disc conversion....that might possibly be the cause of weak rear pressure. (You may also find that you need an adjustable rear proportioning valve, once the swap is completed.) Finally, if you still have the stock tee connector for the rear brake hard lines in the system, I would bleed the left rear first...then right rear. The stock tee connector is on the passenger side of the car, which actually results in the left rear having the longest run of brake line of the four wheels. Good luck with it.

Sounds like the engine is mounted in a JTR position, which locates the engine lower and more to the rear than other mounting positions. It also usually results in the best balance between front/rear weighting. You can google "Jags that run" to get more info on the JTR swap. Glad you're having fun with it.

Did you also post on FB? (There's someone there also looking for same years tank). I saw one recently for sale on my local CL: https://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/d/newport-news-datsun-280z-gas-tank/6862346333.html. Good luck with it.

Can't say that I've ever seen any off-the-shelf options; but it certainly wouldn't be hard to fabricate your own custom-shaped pedal.

If the car doesn't already have one, an inertial cutoff switch is a good idea. I have both a manual switch and an automatic inertial cutoff switch in my fuel pump circuitry.

I bought this MC from Amazon, and was completely expecting a piece of junk due to the low price tag. Turns out I was completely wrong, and very pleasantly surprised by the quality of manufacture and materials. All the threads were clean and well-cut. The plastic reservoirs were plenty thick. Installed it with zero leaks on the first try. If you don't like the black plastic caps, you can substitute your own original metal reservoir caps. Haven't had it on the car all that long yet, but it worked great during one very long day of testing at the track. Highly recommend! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PBHLCI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I'm running both in my mild SBC. The stock mech pump is fine for street use, but I need the electric pump for any kind of track use. I'm using an Edelbrock pump, 38 gph, 4-7 psi.

Something like a black plastic 55 gal barrel, or one of those big black plastic drums that trees are potted in for sale....anything with at least a 3-4 ft diameter should have the right curvature.

If you're ok with aftermarket, Skillard makes them: https://skillard.com/products/280z-door-cards

FWIW, I've seen people make their own DIY liners from plastic barrels. Done carefully, they work as well as the stock pieces.

Glad you got it worked out. Is the car on a lift, that you need a transmission jack? If the car's on the ground, a car jack will work fine to lift the differential....just use ratchet straps to hold the diff in place while you're jacking it.

Yes, you can download the FSM for free here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/

LOTS of great ideas here: https://imgur.com/a/R27sh. Of course, how much of this that you actually need will depend entirely on your intended usage for the car and the rest of your setup.

Well, sounds like it's hard to beat the price. And they look nice. But like calZ suggested, do you have a specific question? Alternatively, I'm sure that members here would be interested in your impressions of the seats after using them for a period of time.

BUMP. $100 plus shipping....come and get it!

A close-up of the plug would also be helpful. Do you have the FSM for your car? If not, I'd suggest downloading it (for free) at Xenonzcar.com.

Even if you're getting the correct voltage to the starter, that doesn't mean you're getting sufficient cranking amps. (And quite honestly, 11.8 - 12.4 volts sounds kind of low for a strong battery.) I didn't see any mention of testing your battery independently....might want to consider that. Definitely do the relay upgrade, as suggested by Enzo above. It appears that your battery is still in the stock mounting position, but has the positive lead been replaced with a smaller gauge wire? From your last post, it sounds as though the starter is functioning correctly, but is suffering from insufficient current flow.

Didn't see an asking price, unless I missed it somehow....maybe there's a typo in the first line of your post?

Couldn't you install the circlip on the axle, and then get the axle started into the diff (which would hold the circlip square and in place until the axle's fully inserted, and secured in place)?

Thanks for the replies. I'll take a look at the link ZHoob posted. Again, this is a bit of an exercise in theory. Not sure exactly how well the plumb-bob method would work on a lowered car, with coilovers and adjustable camber plates....since camber and caster need to be measured with the wheels mounted on the car, the car sitting on the wheels and the suspension loaded (static loading). But who knows -- maybe it would work with sufficient accuracy to be meaningful. I agree that there are many ways to measure caster....I've just never understood the math/engineering behind the technique that many car builders seem to use. Hence my original questions...

Hello all....I have a bit of a theoretical question regarding the various common techniques for measuring front caster. Yes, I've searched extensively (across the internet) but haven't found an answer to my specific questions. One of the most common techniques has one measuring the delta camber as the front wheels are turned from right to left....in either a 40 degree arc (20 "in" and 20 "out") or a 30 degree arc (15 in and 15 out). One takes the delta camber measurement and multiplies it by 1.5 (if using a 40 degree sweep) or 2.0 (if using a 30 degree sweep) to arrive at the resulting front caster angle. My first question is why is a multiplication factor necessary at all, and what is the supporting math that dictates a factor of 1.5 or 2.0? My second question is if one uses a 60 degree sweep (i.e. 30 in and 30 out), is the multiplication factor 1.0? Please understand that I'm not taking issue with the technique or the math methodology used to arrive at the result....merely trying to understand the underlying math or engineering principles that were used to define the methodology. Yes, I'm aware of the large variety of caster gauges; but haven't sprung for an expensive combo gauge yet. For the time being, I'm using a simple digital angle finder with DIY homemade turnplates for the front wheels. Thanks in advance for anyone who can help shed some illumination on this for me!

Fuel tank: best bet is to find someone parting out with a tank same as yours (they vary in size and internal design across the years). Even if it's got some internal or external rust, they are very easy to restore yourself with off-the-shelf products. If you aren't already on the S30 pages on FB, they offer a great source of used parts. You're in CA, so that's good -- west coast seems to have a huge availability of used cars and parts in good condition. ZCarSource seems to be one of the better vendors if you're looking for hard-to-find original parts for restoration purposes. For performance parts, I'd add Futofab, DP Racing, and Silvermine Motors to the list of vendors mentioned above.

Actually, IIRC, the 240 and 280 sending units are quite different....the internal arms and floats are different size and shape. Not saying you couldn't modify one to make it work. The internal baffling on the two tanks is also different as I recall, so make sure there are no internal interference issues with the different sending unit.