jhm

Yes, those pictures explain a lot. I don't think Edan will be able to offer much help, given that your entire front end is custom. It may be possible to bend the sway bar, as JMort described; but I suspect it may be harder to bend wider than it would be to bend it narrower (especially with a thick bar, as yours appears to be). Custom end links might also be a practical solution. Universal sway bars can be had for pretty cheap, so maybe just look for a wider bar, and possibly one that will be adjustable to boot? It does not appear that you will be able to adjust those Silvermine LCAs any longer without significantly changing some other aspect of your suspension (e.g. LCA mounting points, sway bar mounting, the sway bar itself, etc.) And as Silverado pointed out, do you really need more neg camber (or track width)?? Good luck with it -- should be quite a nice track car once you get it all sorted!

MSA Auto is also a possible option: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10e07/12-4250

Dave has closed up shop and moved on to other life pursuits. Someone may have one of his kits that they never installed and may be willing to sell to you... https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

MSA carries those same end links as well (slightly better price, too). https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20g/23-4115

That doesn't look like the stock crossmember. Has it already been modified or replaced with a different unit? If so, that could certainly be causing you problems (if the LCA mounting points are different than stock).

Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"? If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings. Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be? Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

The fact that it's a '71 kind of works in your favor....electricals in the early cars was a whole lot simpler than for the later years. If you have a buddy who's comfortable working with auto electrical systems, may be worth asking for his or her help with this. Buy yourself a good multimeter and test lamp....you're going to need it if you decide to fix things yourself. The "Engine Electrical" chapter in your FSM will define the correct wiring for starter motor, etc. The "Body Electrical" chapter will help you figure out the wiring for gauges....there is a separate harness for the dashboard ("Instrument Harness") that may be buggered up; or it could a simple matter of poor connections at the connector block. If you're blowing fuses the instant you connect the battery, stop. There are shorts somewhere in the system and you need to isolate those and rectify them before they cause a fire. Poor grounds are very often responsible for electrical malfunctions in these old cars. People will often find that an accessory is not working simply because the ground had corroded and just needed cleaning up. Good luck with it.

You're the only person that can make the decision whether to install a new harness or fix what you've got. It will depend on how bad the current harness is, how much time and effort you're willing to put into it, how much you want to spend on it, how long are you planning to keep the car, what other mods are you planning for the car, what is the desired outcome, etc, etc. My previous car was also an SBC conversion, that had been badly screwed up by multiple previous owners. I chose to fix it. It took a lot of time, but I know the electrical system inside and out when I finished. On my next car, I did a complete rewire because I knew that I would do it right, and I had already stripped the car down to a bare shell....so that was an easy decision.

Two solutions that I'm aware of.... 1) Get Futofab's Sti conversion stub axles: https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=173:r180-sti-stub-axles&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122 2) Get a set of R160 side axles for a 510 and machine a groove in them for the clip (assuming that your VLSD R160 already has the circlips internally).

What year and model is the car? And do you have the FSM for it? If not, you can download free FSMs at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/ If those two leads are for an indicator lamp, and they are still functional, you should be able to test them with a multimeter. The black would show ground, and the red would show voltage in a specific situation (e.g. when the car is in Reverse, or Park, etc).

Those don't appear to be OEM wiring (i.e. some previous owner put those in aftermarket); so you're really just going to have to trace them yourself and decide how to deal with it. If they were done correctly, the black should be a ground and the red would be a hot lead. Perhaps they are there for an accessory of some sort? Any OEM wiring for the starter should not be anywhere near the shifter, unless the car was originally an automatic perhaps?

This is a forum for Datsun and Nissan Z cars. You would probably be better off posting your question in a Subaru forum.

I believe Hung Vu and/or Minh Vu are selling nice new repro dashes in both fg and cf; they advertise on several of the S30 pages on FB. Minh is also here at HybridZ....username @grretc.

SOLD.

TREMEC has a cool little app for your smartphone that might help -- under the name "Tool Box", IIRC.

There could be numerous causes of "clunking" in the rear portion of the drivetrain. The diff mount is certainly one of them, but there are many other potential causes. Fortunately, there are several discussions in HybridZ on this very topic over the last several years -- you'll find lots of good info in them. Go over the entire drivershaft, differential, half-shafts, suspension, etc checking for worn bushings and/or loose hardware (nuts and bolts). A popular upgrade you may want to look at is replacing the stock diff mount with a Ron Tyler-style mount. It's a much more elegant solution than Datsun's stock lower mount and rubber strap. You can sometimes find them used, or Technoversions still produces them new: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html?. Good luck with it, and welcome to the wonderful world of old Z cars.

Yep, more leverage and heat should do it. And who cares if you snap the bolt(s)? Easily replaced. Worst case, you can grind/cut it off if nothing else works.

Are you talking about the stock front diff mount? And if so, which bolts...the ones that attach the mount to the car's shell or the ones the bolt the mount to the diff? Take a picture if you're not sure. Fie searching on HybridZ, Google search works better than our website search function. Just be sure to include HybridZ in your search string.

walkerbk, thank you for your Service and thanks for the update (especially from the sandbox). I think your wife deserves some kind of medal for unwrapping all that and doing the rough mockup for you! 😜

Another option would be to remove the brake lines from the MC and plug the two ports with standard hex nuts. They are 10mm x 1.0, IIRC.

Price drop -- $70 shipped anywhere in the U.S.

Regarding braided lines, there's a few vendors that carry them; but I've been using some made by a company called "Apex" (not Apex Engineering). They've lasted well for the three years I've been using them, and they will gladly make custom lengths upon request. I'll dig up their contact info and PM it to you.

You're going to want to bleed the system afterwards, so it's really not worth worrying about trying not to lose brake fluid during the conversion to coilovers. (Unless you leave the entire system intact, and hanging on hangers during the conversion, as Leon suggested.). Also a good time to replace your soft lines, if necessary, as Jon Mortensen suggested....consider replacing the stock rubber soft lines with steel braided lines, as well.

You could also post in the "Parts Wanted" section here.

On my V8 swapped 260, I ran the tach wire from the GM HEI straight to the stock tach (with the JTR-recommended resistor inline), and it's been working fine for years. I thought the adjustment was only needed for a 240 tach, but my memory could be failing me.