jhm

Yep, that's a good price from Silvermine. They're also available, both individually and as a pair (front and rear), from other vendors like Futofab and Summit Racing; but I don't think you'll find it at a better price than Silvermine (although MSA is about the same price). The discriminator for you may be which vendor can provide the cheapest shipping to Germany, as the bars are large and heavy. https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=28&Itemid=86 https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/st-suspensions/part-type/sway-bars/make/nissan/model/280z https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20g DP racing makes very nice adjustable sway bars, that are tubular and lighter than the solid bars, but they cost a bit more than the solid steel sway bars. https://www.dpracing.co/datsun-z-front-suspension-1 Just so you know....the rear bar for the 240 can be used on later cars (like yours) as well. It mounts on the "uprights" behind the differential, with the arms pointing forward to attach to the end links. This configuration typically works better on lowered cars versus the stock-mounted sway bar. You may want to consider this option, if your build is headed in that direction. https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=137:datsun-72-73-240z-orange-line-34q-rear-sway-bar-kit&catid=28:datsun-z-car-suspension&Itemid=86 Viel gluck!

If you want Tokicos, these were listed for a long time on ClassicZcars at a nice price....they may still be available. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62375-parts-for-sale-tokico-5020r-springs-set-of-4/?tab=comments#comment-578193

You can purchase ready-made frame rails and floor pans from vendors like Zedd Findings and Bad Dog Parts. If you don't mind fabricating your own pieces, and you have access to the right equipment, you can make those pieces for the cost of the raw material. Too costly? Only you can make that decision for yourself. The only thing I can say with 99% certainty is that you will discover many more "issues" the deeper you dig into these 40 year old cars. FOL. If you're unfamiliar with the S30, I'd suggest doing a lot more research on them before dropping a bunch of cash to buy one. However, I can say that $8500 will get you a pretty nice 280, especially if you expand your search to include the west coast, the southwest, or any other 'dry' climate areas....that's usually where you find the best buys for rust-free cars. Not trying to be a big downer, but far too many people buy a Z for all the wrong reasons, and without a full understanding of what kind of project they're getting themselves into.

You may already know this trick; but one of the best ways to tackle that frozen bolt is to weld a nut on the remaining portion of the bolt shaft. It would still be a good idea to hit the bolt with heat and penetrating oil; but after the pump's off, you can apply directly where it enters the block and get the heat and oil much closer to the problem area.

Yes, input flange should be a direct swap -- and it was when I swapped in my STi TORSEN diff (2007, IIRC) into my car. Are you sure that your donor diff is actually from an STi; and even if so, have you cracked open the rear cover to verify LSD? I suppose someone could have replaced the STi's original differential with a non-LSD R180 at some point in the past?

Google search. A new fender can cost up to several hundred dollars, or you may get lucky and find one cheap. If you're not set on a new part, your best bet is to find one used. People are always posting ads for part-outs. Have you considered just repairing the dented fender? The front fender is probably the easiest panel on these cars to fix, and that would essentially be a free fix. Pull the fender, pull/hammer the dent out, bondo/primer/paint, and you're done. Not much more labor required than having to pull the old fender and install a new one.

Hey @calZ, thanks for sharing that info. Had not yet seen that Fritz was working on a power steering kit. I'm glad he opened his business base to include S30s.

I believe Driveshaft Shop may be the other vendor for stub axles that you're thinking of?

Thanks for the picture of the original factory roll bar, @HS30-H. Had forgotten about that. I think this is the harness bar I was thinking of.....if it was ever offered as a production item, it doesn't appear to be so now: https://streetfaction.wordpress.com/2016/11/16/kyles-280z/

Yes. There used to be a bolt-in harness bar available that bolted in right above there; not sure if it's still produced. just curious...why are you asking?

If you're not concerned about maintaining the OEM wiring configuration, you can pull your input for the voltmeter from any good 12V circuit in the system (assuming that the voltmeter is working correctly). If your voltage regulator is not working correctly, that's another issue altogether, and you probably have bigger problems than a non-functioning voltmeter.... @ELbrown33, you're going to need to be more specific with your question. If you need help with a specific electrical issue, you may want to start a new thread, to avoid confusion with the ongoing discussion initiated by the original poster on this thread.

There's a member here that's producing the 3-piece spoilers for a pretty nice price. Otherwise, you can google search and find quite a few for sale used (eBay, etc.). For flares, there's a consensus building that most of the best fitting flares are coming from Japan these days...and the price really isn't that much more than one would've paid for something like Retro-Specs. I know someone that ordered from here recently and was very happy with the product and delivery timeframe: RHDJAPAN.COM. Hope this helps. Hide or report this.

What suspension are you running?? These kinds of wheel widths/backspacings will have significant interference with the stock strut spring perches. I also suspect those wheels & tires will have intereference issues with the frame rails on the front at full lock.

This post appears to be spam or trolling; and if not, should be listed in the Vendors section IINM?

Yes, one bolt on each side to mount the engine when using the stock front crossmember. This should be the case for any engine swap that uses the stock crossmember. (There are aftermarket crossmember that may have a different bolt configuration.)

https://technotoytuning.com/

FYI for ALCON -- T3, Futofab, DatsunRestoMods, Ground Control and Apex Engineered are all having Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales and specials. Please fee free to add any others that you're aware of. Thanks, and happy shopping!

Only you, the owner/driver, can answer the question of Eibach (or any similar lowering spring) vs stock. Do you want stock ride height and softer ride, of do you want lowering and firmer suspension? Tokico is another good lowering spring, but they're pretty hard to find at this point. Vogtland seems to get good reviews, but I have no personal experience with them. Here's a link to one vendor for the high-quality bump stops referred to above. Pricey, but worth it if you're serious about good handling: http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm

Yes, those definitely appear to be OEM-style rubber bushings. Where did you source them from?

Depending on what flange your specific R200 has, it often needs to be swapped to match your driveshaft (or the flange on the driveshaft needs to be swapped to match the diff). See the attached photo for reference data. Also, if you haven't already done so, I would read all the relevant threads on this topic in the Drivetrain FAQs. Tons of great info in there. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/83-drivetrain/

Lots of discussion on FB on this exact topic. IMHO, Paulo was a victim of his own success. He's a small one-man show, and got way behind on orders over the last year or two; and then had the misfortune of a major fire in his facilities (as mentioned above). It will be quite a while, if ever, if he gets business back on track. I know of a few people that have ordered from RHDJapan recently, and have been very happy: https://www.rhdjapan.com/

The voltmeter wiring is really pretty simple. What year/model is the car? Has the voltmeter EVER worked for you; and if so, when did it stop working? If a PO replaced ammeter with voltmeter, they may not have done it correctly. An easy diagnostic is to remove the gauge, and hook it directly to a good battery. If no reading, then the problem is the gauge. If it does read correctly, then you'll know the problem is in the wiring somewhere. A lot of the multiplug connectors in the various harnesses can easily get corroded and/or loose and cause issues like you're experiencing with the voltmeter. Good luck with it.

Yep, increased track width will generally improve cornering traction overall. Another thing to keep in mind is that many techniques to widen the track will decrease the effective spring rate (due to the longer moment arm acting on the spring).

I run 1" adapter/spacers on the rear to increase rear track width. I also have improved my front caster with adjustable TC rods, so the car turns fairly neutral. What size wheels and tires are you running?

I've been using them for about a year now, and have been pretty happy with them. They improved the LCA geometry on my lowered suspension; increased my neg camber (by about a degree IIRC); and increased front track width by about 2" total. The only major downside I see with them is that they can induce interference between the steering arms and the wheels with rim diameter 15" or less. I would definitely buy them again.