jhm

wingwalker, do you have the option of doing a low-mount alternator (on the driver side)? That's what I did with mine, and I have roughly 1" clearance between the alt and the frame rail and no interference issues with the steering rack. (However, the JTR mounting location might make a low-mount difficult?)

Bigger does not necessarily equate to more traction. A smaller high-performance tire can easily give better traction than a larger cheap tire. If you're absolutely dead set on stuffing the largest possible wheel/tire combo under your fenders, you may want to invest in a wheel mock-up tool (or make one yourself).

I don't believe that design will be adjustable on the car, if they are all RH threads. You'll need a double adjuster with RH threads on one end and LH threads on the other. I'm using one like this on my adjustable front LCAs: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Steel-Double-Adjuster-3-4-16-Threads-5-1-2-Inch-Length,49011.html?sku=91012500&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2PO3qtzL4AIVD6rsCh0KNwaoEAQYASABEgKEwfD_BwE P.S. I believe the name of the piece you asked about is a threaded rod end adapter. That design would work if you can find them in opposite thread directions.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your recent acquisition...looks like a very nice clean original! If you plan on doing any auto-x or HPDE, the Tarheels club is a great group of folks and is very active in your area: https://www.thscc.com/.

Nice set of inner stub axles (properly known as side flanges) for the R160. These are 25 spline, bolt-in style. Threads, splines, seals and shafts all look in good condition. These can also be modified to be compatible with a Subaru LSD R160. Thanks for looking.

This is a pretty good product for rust protection anywhere internal....comes with a 2' hose to get at all the nooks and crannies: https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html.

I guess one could argue that they protected the bumpers in some small way, but I think most people treat them as cosmetic items. The appeal they usually have is for someone restoring their 240 who wants to have every optional piece of equipment that was available at that time. You will usually find the largest crowd of restoration purists on Classiczcar, and some of the S30 FB pages (e.g. 240z Registry). Purely my own impressions, and I'm sure others will chime in if they have differing opinions.

Yes, the override bar and bumperettes were options...often dealer-installed. Some restoration fans like them (for restoration purposes...a la ClassicZCar), and many others prefer the clean lines of the thin bumpers w/o them. If you decide you don't want to keep them, and they're still in good shape, you can usually sell them for a few bucks.

One complete set of billet aluminum CV adapters, to convert your half-shafts to CV axles, made by Mattndew (on the510Realm). Brand new, never installed. These are for the 930-style CV joints (108mm). Four adapters total, to convert both rear half-shafts. Thanks for looking.

BUMP

Hey Miles, have you had any noise, chatter or squeal issues with those Carbotechs? I'm currently running the Porterfield R-4S and am reasonably happy with them, but always willing to try something new. Mostly auto-x and track use, but the R4's were driving me nuts when cold. Thx.

Sale pending....

Apples and oranges. With the GC sleeves, one removes the stock spring perch and welds on a new perch ring for the provided coilover sleeves (kind of the standard coilover installation). The Cosmo sleeves sit on the stock spring perch, and are shorter than most coilover sleeves, which is why the others have pointed out that ride height adjustability is limited as compared to other coilover conversions. If the Cosmos meet your needs, however, go for it....you can't beat the price. Here's a pretty decent step-by-step write-up on the Cosmos: Cool project, BTW.

The BCs have a nice design that allows one to adjust ride height without affecting suspension bump travel...this makes them an attractive option for a daily driver that will see a lot of varied road conditions.

This guy usually has several in stock, and his prices are usually pretty good....he advertises on several of the Datsun FB pages: Alexxi Cini The Classic Zcar Club about 3 months ago Selling Subaru STI R180 + R160 differentials Ottawa, Ontario $650 Fall Special ! Selling Subaru STI R180 + R160 differentials, message me for a shipped price to your location. STI R180 LSD 3.54 Torsen $650 STI R180 LSD 3.90 Clutch Type Plated $650 STI R180 LSD 4.44 Clutch Type Plated $825 - The R180 4.44 will give you the quickest acceleration of all the R180's, very hard to find, Japan only STI R160 R160 VLSD 4.44 $120

Glad you chimed in, Fritz. I think it's great to have some new options here; so thanks for bringing these into the market!

I am not aware of any manuals that contain this level of information, Joost....but that would certainly be nice. I just emailed you a few minutes ago -- tracking info shows the package was delivered yesterday.

Checked some spare parts lying around in the garage. 😜

Joost, you are correct...12x1.25. Cheers

Well done, Sir....and kudos to you for saving another one from the crusher!

Would it be easier to stay with zero offset and dial in some negative camber? That might preclude the need to roll the fenders, while still giving you the clearance you need on the inside of the wheel. Also, if you're averse to switching to coilovers, the stock spring perches can be trimmed for additional wheel clearance w/o affecting the structural integrity.

There are a few good threads in the FAQs regarding OBX issues and installation. Check 'me out, if you haven't already done so, and they should answer most of your questions. Seems like OBX units are NLA for the R200, so this was a good find for you!

My pleasure, Joost! Good luck with the rest of your build. 👍

Actually, the stub axles are often the weak link in the drive train vs the diff and half-shafts. I'd hesitate to give an actual number limit, because it depends on so many variables. If you can provide some specifics on your build and setup, might be able to better answer your question.

Found this thread on one of the 510 forums....I don't know Fritz personally, but he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=31253