jhm

Yep, I've done with two different cars in the last few years. It's discussed in the JTR manual, if you happen to have a copy handy.

P.s. It's easy to remove the stock tach through the front of the dash, which will make it much easier to work on vs killing yourself working on it from underneath the dash.

I've never had a problem running the stock tach with a GM HEI or the stock Chevy distributor. Typically, some additional resistance is required in the signal feed line; but no other changes required IIRC.

Futofab is having a nice 15% sale on pretty much their entire inventory all this week....don't miss out! Sale ends this Sunday/Jan 27.

Yes, it's been a while since any were produced to my knowledge. A former member ran point on the last major production run that I'm aware of and that was several years ago. You could try posting in the Wanted sub-forum, in case anyone purchased extras and might still have some left over.

I have used the Bilsteins for VW in both my 280 and 240 struts. The old part number is P30-0032; the new part number is 34-184530. I've had no luck finding the Bilstein gland nuts, so I've always machined my own out of OEM gland nuts.

I noticed the same odd thing with those posts, and I sent him a PM telling him basically the same things y'all have pointed out. That was four days ago and I haven't heard anything back from him. Toolshed?

I watched the video, and honestly couldn't hear anything untoward. However, a bunch of metal shavings in your tranny is not good. Other likely sources of whining noises in the drivetrain are the differential (welded or otherwise), and the u-joints in your driveshaft and half-shafts. If you're really worried about it, I would put it on a lift and run it....that will give you the opportunity to better track down where the noise is coming from.

Nice, nullbound. I really I could find a good quality high-mount bracket for use with a short water pump, but haven't had any luck with it. May just have to make one myself.

One other thing, on the subject of alternators.... Forgot to mention this in my previous post, but db electrical is a great vendor for starters and alternators. They offer standard and mini-size components for most engines, and it's really high-quality stuff. Have been using their units for years, without any issues. You may want to look at using one of their mini alternators if space is tight using that bracket.

Gotcha'. I don't know if this will be of any use to you, but I measured the space between the base of my valve cover and the inner fender, and it was approx 6.5". (Engine is an iron-head SBC, mounted halfway between JTR setup and Scarab mounting position.) If you have the ability to mount a small-body alternator, I'm sure that would give you more clearance to play with, no? Good luck with it, and be sure to post an update with your final results!

Regarding the headlights, lots of potential issues in the circuitry, but don't forget to check that main three-pin connectors for the headlight harness. There are two (one for each headlight) and they are typically routed along the lower portion of the radiator core support. For the Hazard switch, it too can get gummed up over time and may come around with simple cleaning. It's a fragile little plastic rocker switch, so it's possible that it's just disintegrated internally over time. Easy to pop out of the console to inspect it and the six-wire plug it connects to. Tip for searching HybridZ for technical info....use Google search with "HybridZ" in your search string. That usually produces better results than using HybridZ's organic search feature.

Another tip when measuring for brake lines....if possible, add a couple extra inches to allow for the extra suspension travel when you drop the strut and control arms to swap springs/shocks/etc. Having a little extra length on the brake flex lines makes this job so much easier, especially on the fronts.

Maybe I missed it, but did you actually specify which bracket you're considering in your post?? A picture by itself will not suffice. You may prefer to install all the accessories before installing the motor; but I personally have found that it's easier to get the motor into the engine bay without all the peripherals attached. Personal choice. I don't know what bracket that is that you're considering, but you may want to check out Alan Grove Brackets. They produce a great selection of high and low mount brackets for all requirements for multiple engines. Good luck with it.

I think he's saying he needs the length of the yellow lines....perhaps for LED inserts?? All my taillights are 260/280, otherwise I'd be happy to provide measurements.

Ah so....thanks very much for that. Will have to look into this a little more when I get a chance!

Jon, besides the larger shaft body (36mm vs 30mm), what are the differences/advantages of the larger Bilsteins? I'm currently running the 30mm, and always interested in ways to improve the setup. Thx.

I'm just curious....have you really been looking for one for six years??

My car weighs in very similarly to your target (which is quite light for a 280, BTW). I am running 340 lb/in springs in the rear and 300 in front. All of my coils are 7 or 8" free length. ST rear sway bar and Datsun 20mm front sway bar. Tires are Hoosier A7s (275 width, 15" diameter). Have you had a chance to read all the FAQs on suspension? If not, you'll find that most of your questions have already been addressed quite adequately. I would recommend trying to get closer to 50/50 front/rear weight ratio. What's your left/right mix, and cross-weight ratio?

Hey Mark, it may not sound much like a V8 to you; but I can really hear it...I remember the first time seeing your car at ACU-4, and thinking to myself "cool, another V8 Z." I was wrong, of course, but that memory has always stuck with me. Cheers!

That shell is probably nicer than the day it rolled off the production line....very nice work! (Actually WAY nicer, with all the additional rust protection you've incorporated.)

Good point on the gland nuts. I've not been able to find original Bilstein gland nuts for either 240 or 280 strut tubes, so I've always machined my own out of stock gland nuts (or Tokicos). I'm using the P30-0032s on all four corners.

Also, be advised that if you do decide to replace the stock strut isolators with camber plates, you will not be able to take advantage of the camber adjustment unless you replace the stock-sized springs with smaller diameter springs and top hats as well. The stock springs and top hats interfere with the inner portion of the strut towers and severely limit camber adjustment. (You can achieve roughly the same amount of neg camber by simply slotting the three holes on the strut tower to allow a small inward adjustment of the strut assembly. 2.5" diameter springs are probably one of the most common ID spring used for adjustable coilovers on the S30, but there are certainly many other options to choose from.

You're talking about sectioning the front strut tube to retain suspension travel while lowering the car and then using bump steer spacers to improve front lower control arm geometry. That's extremely common practice with the S30 suspension. What springs and shocks are you considering using? The various options have been discussed liberally in the Brakes/Suspension sub-forum and the FAQs. It seems like you're wanting to retain the stock'ish springs....but that's a very sub-optimum solution for a track car, and I doubt you'd be happy with the results. If I understand your proposed rear suspension mods correctly, that is largely uncharted territory, and I can't really say that I see the benefits. There are aftermarket adjustable rear LCAs available, or you can fabricate your own, in order to dial-in the desired rear toe geometry. And you can achieve decent negative camber at the rear with even modest lowering. Again, it is a common practice to section/shorten the rear strut tube to retain suspension travel when lowering; and adjustable coilovers are the preferred setup for track use. Your basic premise that the factory suspension offers the best overall solution is just not correct. In fact, the single downtube/single control arm is an outdated and limiting design; and typically requires a fair bit of modification to achieve the types of geometric camber and caster desired for track use, as well as stiffer springing and damping. Hope this info helps, welcome to the forum and good luck with your build. (And Happy New Year!)

ballet, you'll probably get more response if you post your question in the "Other V8Z" sub-forum: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/46-other-v8z-tech-board/