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Are you talking about the stock front diff mount? And if so, which bolts...the ones that attach the mount to the car's shell or the ones the bolt the mount to the diff? Take a picture if you're not sure. Fie searching on HybridZ, Google search works better than our website search function. Just be sure to include HybridZ in your search string.

walkerbk, thank you for your Service and thanks for the update (especially from the sandbox). I think your wife deserves some kind of medal for unwrapping all that and doing the rough mockup for you! 😜

Another option would be to remove the brake lines from the MC and plug the two ports with standard hex nuts. They are 10mm x 1.0, IIRC.

Price drop -- $70 shipped anywhere in the U.S.

Regarding braided lines, there's a few vendors that carry them; but I've been using some made by a company called "Apex" (not Apex Engineering). They've lasted well for the three years I've been using them, and they will gladly make custom lengths upon request. I'll dig up their contact info and PM it to you.

You're going to want to bleed the system afterwards, so it's really not worth worrying about trying not to lose brake fluid during the conversion to coilovers. (Unless you leave the entire system intact, and hanging on hangers during the conversion, as Leon suggested.). Also a good time to replace your soft lines, if necessary, as Jon Mortensen suggested....consider replacing the stock rubber soft lines with steel braided lines, as well.

You could also post in the "Parts Wanted" section here.

On my V8 swapped 260, I ran the tach wire from the GM HEI straight to the stock tach (with the JTR-recommended resistor inline), and it's been working fine for years. I thought the adjustment was only needed for a 240 tach, but my memory could be failing me.

You can run the wires pretty much any way you want. All things being equal, obviously a shorter run of wire is more desirable than a long run. I originally considered running my main alternator wire along the path you were considering, but it ended up being slightly shorter on my setup going down the driver-side frame rail and across the firewall. Other factors to consider are "neatness" (if that's important to you), durability/survivability, and maintainability. A lot of solutions are easy to initially implement, but become a bitch later on when it's time to work on them and/or replace them.

Poor connection? Poor ground? Failing sensor? All of the above? A simple double-check of your water temp can be made with a cheap IR gun.

What transmission are you using? And wheel/tire size?

One pair of lightly used PAC Racing coilover springs. 2.5" inner diameter, 6" free length, 250 lb/in. Orange powder-coated. $75 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

SOLD.

Ah, sorry I misunderstood. Can't say that I've seen a source for just the pinion gear, other than a used one from another rack. FYI -- if you want slightly quicker steering, you can source a pinion gear from a 240Z rack....the 240 has slightly quicker steering ration.

New and refurbished racks: https://zcarsource.com/suspension/steering-components/steering-racks

Seems like a high-torque impact wrench should be able to loosen that (could start by trying and electric impact, but may need an air gun to get enough power to loosen the nut). A deep well impact socket should be deep enough for that situation, hopefully?

Suspension settings will depend largely on what kind of setup you're running (springs, lowering, sway bars, wheel size and rubber, etc) and what type of track events you plan on running (settings for auto-x can be very different from road course settings.), and your personal level of experience. John Coffey wrote a couple good threads on this topic a few years ago...they might be in the FAQs? I'll see if I can locate them.

If you haven't already done so, you can download the FSM for all years free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. HybridZ is my personal favorite, but there of plenty of other good forums for restoration and modification info; here's just a couple: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ And there are obviously a bunch of S30 pages on FB, if you're a social media kind of person. Looks like you've got a nice platform to start with -- good luck with it.

WRT the master cylinder rebuild kit from Zcardepot....I tried it and was not impressed with the fitment of the seals. Other people may have had success with that kit, but it didn't do it for me. To be fair to Zcardepot, I don't believe they produce it -- I think it's produced by another vendor in the U.K. A new MC from Cardone ended up only costing $10 more than the seal kit, so that's the route I eventually went. Also, for car seat cover kits, and upholstery needs in general, I've seen some vendors on FB that produce really nice stuff in genuine leather. Check the S30 pages like Datsun Parts and Needs and 240z 260z 280z Lovers.

I don't know what your budget is, but Hung Vu has recently started selling the old-style low-profile JDM headlight covers with metal chrome trim. They look prettt nice, but are not cheap. He advertises on most of the S30 pages on FB.

Are you having particular issues with a specific gauge(s), accessory, or connector block? Or just the entire dash harness in general?

Ah, didn't realize you were running adjustable TC rods.....you will want to stay away from the aluminum/delrin camber bushings. They offer no flex at all, as Jon pointed out. Consider replacing the stock rubber bushings with monoball.

Don't forget the biscuit-style camber plates that EMI used to make, and DP Racing still produces. They offer quite a bit of adjustability and are a bolt-on solution that requires no cutting of the strut tower. The negative camber bump steer spacers offered by T3 are another potential solution; but like adjustable LCAs, may require the use of adjustable outer tie rod ends (depending on whatever other mods you decide to make).

Description Various interior pieces for sale. All pulled from a 1973 early-model 260 or a 1974 late-model 260. Most in decent physical and operating condition. All prices listed do not include shipping -- I will use the most economical USPS flat rate shipping available. Thanks for looking. - ashtray cover and mounting bracket, two available (note the different configuration on backside): $10 each - ashtrays, two available: SOLD - glovebox door, includes the side-mounted retaining bracket and screws: $15 - cigarette lighters, two available, both in working condition: SOLD - overhead dome lamp, includes bulb, working condition: SOLD - ammeter/fuel gauge, pulled several years ago when converted to voltmeter, unknown working condition: $10 - fresh air side vents, two available, one functions nicely/the other has a broken pull tab for opening/closing vents: SOLD - center console armrest, spring and latching mechanism in good working condition, one mounting bracket was repaired years ago: SOLD - center air handler for center vents/defroster: free with any purchase - white plastic mounting bracket for dash harness: free with any purchase - small plastic coat hangers (that mount behind drivers and passengers seats), two available: free with any purchase FIRE SALE.....PACKAGE DEAL: $40 total for everything remaining, shipped anywhere in the U.S! $40 for everything, with free shipping!!

Are you trying to avoid camber plates? There are several bolt-in options, that will probably give more neg camber than anything else (except for longer/adjustable front LCAs). Here is just one example of a bolt-in plate that's reasonably priced: https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-260z/suspension/240z-260z-280z-camber-plates-bolt-in-lowering-kit Redrilling the LCA holes in your front crossmember is not a small job, and I would hold off on that option until you have determined that you have roll center/bumpsteer issues that can not be solved any other way. I used offset bushings in my front LCAs for several years without issue, although they do result in more road noise and ride harshness than the stock rubber bushings. I have since switched to a monoball bushings in the LCAs and will eventually make them adjustable length. Plenty of adjustable front LCAs out there off the shelf, but you can make your own quite affordably using the stock LCAs and good quality heim joints. How much is your car currently lowered? As you probably are aware, lowering the front suspension results in additional neg camber as well.