jhm

Yep. Good news is that you should be able to weld a new stud/bolt in place there without too much trouble.

What year and model? Bumper mounting configurations varied quite a bit from year to year. A picture of the specific area you're grappling with will help as well. But the quick answer is yes, the bumpers often incorporated threaded studs as part of the mounting; and yes, those studs very often are rusted and/or broken.

Appears that the final sale price was $124K. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/240z-124240/

Aerodynamic, when you say that the T3 gold blocks already have bearings on them; are you talking about the spherical mono ball bearing that's press-fit into the gold block? If so, that just controls the top of your strut shock shaft; but doesn't really do anything to enable smooth rotation between the spring and strut body. Needle bearings in the top hats and/or the lower spring perch will enable that smooth rotation.

Does this happen on both sides, or just the left side? Are you using the T3 top hats, with integrated needle bearings? Or at least some sort of bearings in the coilover system? You can get them in any size and use at the top hat or the lower spring perch, or both. It sounds like your spring and front strut tube are not turning together; thereby 'catching' on the threaded sleeves, causing a hitch...and also damaging the sleeve as well.

For rear toe adjustment, it appears possible since both the lower and upper control arms incorporate double adjusters at the mounting points to the frame structure.

Actually, I've seen differences just between my '73 early-model 260 and my '74 late model 260. Maybe some of that is due to thicker metal, double-layering, or additional reinforcement; but the bottom line is that it results in a stronger/stiffer shell.

Yes, $3K is a very reasonable price for a solid car, even with the engine and interior issues you've noted. Also, being a 280, the shell is made with thicker sheetmetal throughout than earlier year models....so that makes it a sturdier platform for engine swaps/stiffer suspension/etc.

You didn't mention what the purchase price was; but that certainly looks like a pretty solid shell from underneath. If it's been west coast, or Colorado area, it's whole life, that bodes favorably for being close to rust-free. If you haven't already done so, pull the carpets up and inspect the floor pans, firewall, rear shelf, and spare tire well from inside the car. The ice pick idea from bunkhouse is a good one. What kind of "project" are you contemplating? If going for an all-original restoration, then obviously the condition of the interior and drivetrain can be as big a cost factor as the shell. If contemplating a track car and/or engine swap, then that stuff is obviously less important.

Sorry, my bad....may have been thinking of earlier year model. How are you "manually running voltage to the pump to prime the lines"? Have you put in a temporary bypass hot lead to the fuel pump that you can control manually? I'm wondering if it's possible for the fuel pump relays to pass a continuity test but still not function correctly to pass full voltage to the pump while cranking the starter?

Great advice from Miles. I would add "Read as many Build Threads as possible" to the list. These can be found in the "Members Projects" sub-forum.

Actually, I believe your pump is functioning correctly. IIRC, accessories are not powered while the ignition switch is in the "Start" position (i.e. when the starter is cranking).

I'm sure you'll find what you need at either of the two vendors listed; but just as just an FYI for anyone else in the same situation......there's a good shop in the UK that is producing multiple body panels for the S30. Search for username "Kim Mays" on the S30 pages on FB. (They may have a website, as well; but I'm not aware of it.)

Yes, your battery should read 14+ volts when running, if the charge system is functioning properly. Have you measured resistance from the alternator to the battery, as suggested by Newzed? That could help you track down where the losses are occurring. Also, how long is "a while", that the car continues to run after turning the key off? Finally, it seems you believe that a PO has modified the wiring to your tee connector; but have you traced the wiring from end to end? That's really the only way you'll know for sure if they mucked something up when they rewired it.

I would check your shocks as well. Good chance that they're worn out, unless you know for sure when they were last replaced (and with what kind of replacement units). KYB are pretty popular replacement shocks and very affordable. Konis are the bomb, but pricey. Several threads here discuss the many available shock and spring options you can choose from. Obviously, check your brake function too, for driveabilility and safety. Many owners go for long times between pad replacement, brake fluid flush and bleed. Congratulations on your acquisition. Do you know the car's history? If it's like 90% of the used S30's up for sale, it will need a solid going-through to ensure it's road-worthy.

To answer your first question....yes, the stock half-shafts are actually quite stout and often used in applications with similar hp numbers as yours. And half-shafts are very readily available used from any of the Z car forums and FB pages....no need to buy new, unless you just want new parts. Converting back to half-shafts from your current CVs might be a bit tricky. You will need the correct side axle (also sometimes called stub axle, but I believe side axle is the more correct nomenclature) to clip into the Quaife LSD that you could bolt the half-shafts to. If the Quaife internals are the same as the original R200 (spine count and diameter), you should be good to go. If not, I honestly don't know if there's anything commercially available for that. One of the more common LSD swaps uses a Subaru LSD diff, and there are a couple vendors that produce conversion stub axles to mate the OEM half-shafts with the Subaru LSD internals. Have you tried playing with different length sway bar end links? You can easily swap the middle spacer to shorten or lengthen the overall end link. (Sounds like yours might need to be shorter than they currently are.) Sometimes that's all that's needed to give sufficient clearance between the sway bar and the axles. EDITED: Forgot to mention that the half-shafts will typically have more driveline vibration and noise than the CV axles; which you may find undesirable or even unacceptable.

BUMP.

I've read your post a couple of times, and still not sure what you're looking for. If you're seeking an original replacement relay, maybe post on the "Parts wanted" sub-forum? Lots of guys keep a stock of old electrical components. Also, I didn't see where you specified what year and model your car is. The electrical systems varied widely from year to year in these cars. Finally, your post discusses the "combination switch" and "turn signal switch", but it turns out that you're really asking about a specific relay 'under the seat'. (Which seat, BTW?). Maybe that's why Miles posted the full FSM.

As NewZed pointed out, the reason one puts a little oil inside the strut tube is to prevent corrosion and assist with heat dissipation when the shock body heats up during heavy use. I've been doing this for years with all brands of shocks, both gas-charged and non-gas, and have never had a problem. You really only need a little to do the job -- enough to cover roughly the lower half of the shock body once inserted into the strut tube is what I shoot for.

Are they gas shocks? If so, they should still hold their gas charge and not be leaking oil, if they're ok. If not gas-charged, they'll still be leaking oil at the shaft seal and you should be able to visibly see the oil discharge. If they had blown due to excessive oil or pressure, the seals on the shaft would be leaking (possibly quite a lot). Is there any visible oil on the shaft or in that area? If not, good chance that they're still fine. You'll know for sure when you remove them and refill....they'll feel firm on the compression and extension strokes (moreso during extension).

Those appear to be the stock calipers; but if they were, the correct part numbered speed bleeder should've worked for you.

I can't imagine there being any damage to the shocks after three strokes of compression. I would remove and refill per the manufacturers directions. Just curious....why pick Gabriel for shocks? That's not a common choice for the Z, but I hope they work well for your application.

Pretty much everyone here has suggested trying a larger MC. You have discs in the rear, and apparently, some non-stock calipers in the front. It's very possible that the stock 7/8 MC will not handle your current setup.

IIRC, I relocated the long rod for the door lock knob on one of my cars...in order to use the different door panel in its original form. A simple job just cutting a new notch to coincide with the hole on the door panel. I seem to recall it was a difference of only a couple inches?

The correct Russell P.N. for the fronts is #639560. I have them in my car and they work fine. Do you recall what part number yours are? IIRC, the MC uses the same size as the stock rear drums.