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LOTS of great ideas here: https://imgur.com/a/R27sh. Of course, how much of this that you actually need will depend entirely on your intended usage for the car and the rest of your setup.

Well, sounds like it's hard to beat the price. And they look nice. But like calZ suggested, do you have a specific question? Alternatively, I'm sure that members here would be interested in your impressions of the seats after using them for a period of time.

BUMP. $100 plus shipping....come and get it!

A close-up of the plug would also be helpful. Do you have the FSM for your car? If not, I'd suggest downloading it (for free) at Xenonzcar.com.

Even if you're getting the correct voltage to the starter, that doesn't mean you're getting sufficient cranking amps. (And quite honestly, 11.8 - 12.4 volts sounds kind of low for a strong battery.) I didn't see any mention of testing your battery independently....might want to consider that. Definitely do the relay upgrade, as suggested by Enzo above. It appears that your battery is still in the stock mounting position, but has the positive lead been replaced with a smaller gauge wire? From your last post, it sounds as though the starter is functioning correctly, but is suffering from insufficient current flow.

Didn't see an asking price, unless I missed it somehow....maybe there's a typo in the first line of your post?

Couldn't you install the circlip on the axle, and then get the axle started into the diff (which would hold the circlip square and in place until the axle's fully inserted, and secured in place)?

Thanks for the replies. I'll take a look at the link ZHoob posted. Again, this is a bit of an exercise in theory. Not sure exactly how well the plumb-bob method would work on a lowered car, with coilovers and adjustable camber plates....since camber and caster need to be measured with the wheels mounted on the car, the car sitting on the wheels and the suspension loaded (static loading). But who knows -- maybe it would work with sufficient accuracy to be meaningful. I agree that there are many ways to measure caster....I've just never understood the math/engineering behind the technique that many car builders seem to use. Hence my original questions...

Hello all....I have a bit of a theoretical question regarding the various common techniques for measuring front caster. Yes, I've searched extensively (across the internet) but haven't found an answer to my specific questions. One of the most common techniques has one measuring the delta camber as the front wheels are turned from right to left....in either a 40 degree arc (20 "in" and 20 "out") or a 30 degree arc (15 in and 15 out). One takes the delta camber measurement and multiplies it by 1.5 (if using a 40 degree sweep) or 2.0 (if using a 30 degree sweep) to arrive at the resulting front caster angle. My first question is why is a multiplication factor necessary at all, and what is the supporting math that dictates a factor of 1.5 or 2.0? My second question is if one uses a 60 degree sweep (i.e. 30 in and 30 out), is the multiplication factor 1.0? Please understand that I'm not taking issue with the technique or the math methodology used to arrive at the result....merely trying to understand the underlying math or engineering principles that were used to define the methodology. Yes, I'm aware of the large variety of caster gauges; but haven't sprung for an expensive combo gauge yet. For the time being, I'm using a simple digital angle finder with DIY homemade turnplates for the front wheels. Thanks in advance for anyone who can help shed some illumination on this for me!

Fuel tank: best bet is to find someone parting out with a tank same as yours (they vary in size and internal design across the years). Even if it's got some internal or external rust, they are very easy to restore yourself with off-the-shelf products. If you aren't already on the S30 pages on FB, they offer a great source of used parts. You're in CA, so that's good -- west coast seems to have a huge availability of used cars and parts in good condition. ZCarSource seems to be one of the better vendors if you're looking for hard-to-find original parts for restoration purposes. For performance parts, I'd add Futofab, DP Racing, and Silvermine Motors to the list of vendors mentioned above.

Actually, IIRC, the 240 and 280 sending units are quite different....the internal arms and floats are different size and shape. Not saying you couldn't modify one to make it work. The internal baffling on the two tanks is also different as I recall, so make sure there are no internal interference issues with the different sending unit.

I too have enjoyed this discussion. Switched to Carbotechs (AX6) based on the recommendations of Miles and others here. Best price plus shipping I found was through THMotorsports. Only got the pads on a couple weeks ago, so nothing to report; but am really looking forward to putting them through the paces.

FYI -- this thread is several years old, but for anyone looking for repro-style headlight covers, "Hung Vu" in NorCal is reproducing some very nice covers for about the same as the price listed in that JDM Parts link. He's on FB, and is active in most of the popular Z car pages.

Bump -- new price. $125 plus shipping.

Without any other info on what's in the rear suspension, I'd say your easiest way to lift the rear end is swap out the rear strut isolators with later/taller units (from a late-model 260 or a 280).

I removed the safety switch, replaced the stock prop valve with a Wilwood, and made my own brake lines from cunifer tubing (copper-nickel). A brass brake line tee connector is used the split the front line for each side (similar to the stock tee connector in the rear of the car that splits the rear feed line from the MC). As sleeperz suggested, you may still want to retain the switch for safety reasons. When functioning correctly, it will prevent the loss of all brakes if you have a line failure somewhere in the system....but your aftermarket gauges may not have the ability to read the electrical signal it transmits when activated. I suppose you could install a standalone LED for that purpose.

Yes, I've deleted, along with many others here. It does not affect the operation of the stock proportioning valve (which can also be replaced with an adjustable unit). The biggest pain is making new brake lines after you've removed the switch....I guess you could rejoin the existing lines with adapter connectors, but I've always made my own lines.

Sounds like you're on the right track. Regarding welding on the mustache bar.....I'd recommend against that in the future. The bar is made of spring steel, which as we all know, responds poorly to exposure to extreme heating.

What year and model? And don't assume the suspension is all "stock bits". Previous owners do the craziest stuff to these cars, and oftentimes end up making things worse. They could have already installed lowering springs, swapped out strut isolators, heated or cut the stock springs to lower the car, etc, etc, etc.....any of those would lower the rear end as compared to stock. I'd pull it apart and see what you have as a baseline before spending money or making changes. Yes, the strut isolator (#9) is typically an easy way to adjust ride height. If the car is a 240 or early-260, you can replace the stock strut isolator with a later version from a 280, and that will typically add 1-1.5" of ride height. T3 offers lift blocks designed to achieve additional ride height: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/240260280z-lift-blocks-factory-strut-mounts. (Or you could just fabricate your own spacer of a similar design concept.)

https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/37-nissan-4-cyl-forum/

4 year old post (in the wrong sub-forum). Can probably be closed or put in The Shed.

The fan controller should convert the voltage internally. If your car did not have a controller, or if it did not have the correct controller for your fan, it was just running off 12V. What kind of fan is it?

Wonder if it just needed a reboot, essentially? Glad you got it worked out.

The T3 lower mount is just a fancy (more expensive) aluminum version of the stock lower mount. Unless you're going for the bling factor, the stock lower will work fine. And yes, you don't need the retaining straps if you have the TechnoVersions upper mount. (Datsun used a thick rubber strap in the original factory mounting.) Many folks will run just the upper Ron Tyler-style mount by itself....it's surprisingly secure. Others, especially folks putting down crazy power and executing repeated hard dragstrip launches, prefer to tie the two side lower frame structures together with the additional security of the lower diff mount (some guys have actually ripped out their forward rear LCA mounts when not using something like the lower differential mount to tie the two sides together).

Yes, a common problem when doing the 5-speed swap. I've seen people cut/trim the console and/or swap shifters to address the issue. People will even cut and weld a stock shifter to create their own custom dogleg shifter. And keep in mind that the shifter can be modified both above AND BELOW the pivot point. If you don't find a solution on HybridZ, I would check on ClassicZCars.com. They are usually more inclined to retain the stock sheetmetal and appearance....particularly on early 240s. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38196-shift-lever-hits-console-on-1973-240z-5-speed-swap/