jhm

Probably better to just get a 6 bolt hub than adapting your Grant hub to the Nardi wheel. There's a bunch of them out there for cheap...this is just one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Boss-Kit-For-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-620-C10-/121609124601?hash=item1c5077faf9&vxp=mtr

Check. Here's a couple good threads from NASIOC that discuss the various types of LSDs that were available in Subarus through the years: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700

Wow....super clean-looking car!! Hope you find what you need. (Have you looked at any of the generic prefab stuff sold at auto parts stores? Just a thought.)

If I recall correctly, you will need a set of 510 side axles between the R160 and the stock half-shafts. Check the 510 forums to confirm this; but otherwise should be fine, and a good bit lighter and more compact than the R180.

Rain in WA?? That's crazy talk! Probably too late now, but is there room to drill two new holes for new mounting points to replace the two existing mounting bolts that are interfering with your adjustment plate? This might be preferable vs cutting notches as you were originally thinking. Used to run with Mark in Virginia Beach...his 240 is one of the nicest I've seen. Good luck to you both -- fingers crossed for decent weather.

Not that your approach won't work; but if you'd rather not cut your GC plates, what about switching to a smaller adjustment plate (like the one used on AZ ZCar camber plates)? http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html

Good call from Bruce and Pete. Dibs on your extra set if it turns out they're right!

Yes, I have an electric auxiliary fuel pump wired as discussed....power from a hot post, fused and inertia switch in line, along with manual switch in cockpit. Only need it when racing; the primary mechanical pump is fine for street use by itself. This seems to be a fairly common setup, so there's really no reason why it won't work for you. What's your intended usage for the vehicle?

Bilstein P30s? I don't know if anyone would say they're "as good" as Konis; but they're way cheaper, and have a very beefy construction. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120805-what-is-the-most-recommended-suspension-set-up/?hl=%2Bbilstein+%2Bp30-062&do=findComment&comment=1131060 What's your spring rate and usage?

You guys realize this is a four-year old thread, right? The OP probably got what he needed a long time ago. Just sayin...

Thx for sharing, traininvain -- they look great!

If I read your comments correctly, you want to maintain stock ride height and you want a comfortable ride (i.e. nothing too stiff or harsh) and you don't want to switch to coilovers. And the springs you've tried to date sag too much for you....do they sag in the front, the back, or both? It sounds like the only real solution is to find springs in stock length and rate, correct? Unfortunately, most of the aftermarket springs available will lower the car and have a slightly stiffer spring rate. Coilovers will allow you to choose any ride height and spring rate you want. Or you can keep trying to find OEM springs that aren't sagging. Probably not the answer you were looking for. The KYBs may be part of your problem in ride quality....good shocks will go a long way towards giving you a smooth and controlled ride. Stagg and Tokico (HPs or Illuminas) are just a couple examples of what's available. KYBs are an inexpensive replacement for OEM that many people find lacking. Finally, I don't understand the statement "the alignment shop says the springs are sagging so much they can't adjust the camber". ??? Unless you're running camber plates, adjustable camber control arm bushings, or some other specialized equipment, you're not going to be able to "adjust the camber" at all. The stock suspension mounting hardware does not allow for camber adjustment. You may want to find a different shop to take your car to....just a thought.

Good thing you've got access to machining and welding equipment....you're gonna' need it! Wheel choice: as Miles said, there's a bunch of discussion already available on this topic, but you might want to start by looking at 15" or 16" diameter wheels. Plenty of good selections on these sizes in 8" or 9" width. 16" will give better contact patch and bigger choice of rubber; 15" will be slightly cheaper. You haven't mentioned your intended usage for the vehicle, so that's probably something you need to decide before you embark on major expenditures and vehicle modifications. Too many people waste a bunch of money on the wrong stuff before REALLY thinking about how they want to use the car when it's finished. Good luck with it and be sure to post your results as your work progresses.

One note on fuel system....not sure what year motor you're considering, but the stock Chevy mechanical fuel pump can suffice on its own for normal street use. Anything beyond that will require an additional electric pump, as Miles indicated, nominally mounted back near the gas tank. This is a good link I often use for Chevy V8 questions; has a lot of good SBC reference data: http://nastyz28.com/

Ahh...got it. The only thing I would check for is to make sure there are no clearance issues between your downpipe and the firewall IF you have the JTR-style engine mounting. While it's lower in the frame, it's also quite a bit further back closer to the firewall. Just need to make sure you have no awkward angles fabbing the downtube for the manifold.

You should have no problem....there's typically plenty of clearance on the passenger side. It varies a little with different engine mounting configurations, but I had cast iron ramhorns on my SBC (mounted in the Scarab position) before switching to block huggers, and I had PLENTY of room on both sides of the engine. Any particular reason you prefer the "swept back" collector, vs straight down? Just curious...

Difference between R160 and R180 are fairly significant....160 is noticeably smaller. See attached for comparison. BTW, many people have used the R160 with good success, even with decent power output. It's a very popular diff in the 510 community....very light and versatile.

Ditto what Savage said. Not sure if you have the attached as a reference, but this is what I use for IG switch wiring schematic. And no need to spend $200 on this....you can wire your own with el cheapo parts from Pep Boys.

As Kevin.pk indicated, there's no easy swap of OEM parts that will lower the front end like you can on the rear. Cheapest solution for you would be camber plates, even if you run them in the 'zero' position. These are the cheapest I've found, but there are lots of really good kits out there: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-PillowBall-Bearing-Strut-Upper-Mount-For-Coilover-Kit-Mounts-Plates-240Z-/161203739866?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item25887ddcda&vxp=mtr Silly question: do you not want to lower the front end via the coilovers, for some reason? If the strut tubes are not sectioned, you may have to go this route if you want to retain suspension travel while lowering the car. Sorry if this is not the answer you were hoping for.