jhm

Does your seat have a specific hole/slot in the butt plate for the A-S strap? If so, that should keep the strap in place and prevent slipping without the need for other tabs, true? Attached is pic of my Corbeau which should illustrate the slot in the butt plate to which I'm referring.

I thought all the Z/ZX R200s were 29-spline, regardless of whether the diff was LSD or open. You can source used stub axles and half-shafts from another 280 which originally came with an R200; or you can convert to CV shafts; or you can buy new OEM R200 stub axles from Wolf Creek Racing for $200 (which is a pretty nice price IMHO). Hope this helps. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=31

For what it's worth, when I had a TH350 in my car, I had the kickdown cable connected to the carb linkage on the lower mounting point (where your throttle return spring is currently hooked to.) If you decide to use this mounting point, you can actually rehook your return spring(s) to the kickdown cable if you want. Attached is an old pic of my engine bay, and if you zoom the photo, you can see how the cable is hooked up. Hope this helps...

Another option for mounting the 5th strap is a horizontal bar integral to your seat brackets....either round bar or flat bar will work, as long as it's sturdy stuff, and positioned as John recommended. Also make sure that the surface is smooth, so as not to chafe and wear your harness strap prematurely.

After selecting an appropriate connection point on the carb linkage, the kickdown cable can be adjusted to your individual driving style and performance needs.

Many aftermarket side mirrors require access to the guts of the door for assembly/disassembly....yours would appear to fall into this group. After removing all the hardware on the inside of your door (door lock knob, door-pull handles, window crank, etc), the entire interior door panel should pop off the metal door frame....be careful popping the little plastic pop rivets as they can be reused many times if treated carefully. Once that panel is off, you should have clear and unobstructed view of, and access to, your mirror mounting points. Hope this helps -- good luck with it.

Sweet! Looking forward to updates as this project progresses. (Here's a little inspiration, for what it's worth. My roadster 280, in the mid-1990s. That's Pikes Peak in the background.)

I recently put the white faces on my gauges and really like the new look and improved visibility. I used a flo orange nail polish on the needles, and removed the green bulb covers in the gauge casings to get more light on the gauge faces. This should help even if you are switching to LED bulbs. An alternative to removing the tach and speedo needles is the following: punch a small hole in the center of the white overlay before removing the paper backing, then feed the gauge needle through the center hole while positioning the overlay on the gauge face. Worked like a charm. Good luck with it and enjoy your freshened up gauges.

"Serious buyers only, please"....I guess that's to keep away the hordes of Z fans that would want to see this thing in person.

Nice seats! (They look nice and light, as well.) Please share how the install goes....thx.

Learn something new every day.....thx, NewZed!

Cool....I was wondering where the heck to get info on Levitra! Thank god for spammers.

There's one or two guys on here that have done that swap. "Search" is your best friend. We have an entire sub-forum dedicated to SBC swaps -- it is chock full of extremely detailed threads from guys that have painstakingly documented their project builds. You will not find a better forum anywhere for V8 Z cars -- welcome to HBZ.

OBX makes an LSD for the R200, but not the R180. If you decide to go with a Subaru R180, you'll need different stub axles. Some guys have fabbed their own; and they are available off the shelf from Wolf Creek Racing. Another option you might consider is an LSD R160, from either a Subaru or older Datsun (like a 510). Very easy, and usually cheap, swap; which uses the 510 stub axles. I think a few guys here are using a 160, and many of the 510 guys use the 160 with a lot of success....and many of them are putting out way more than your HP goals. Search on it and you might find it's a good option for your application. There's a bunch of info on this in the FAQs and the Drivetrain sub-forum. Search and you should be able to find everything you need. Good luck with it and be sure to post your results when you're done.

Hello, and welcome to HybridZ. Sounds like a great project, but you will get better results if you post your thread in this sub-forum (for Ford V8 swaps): http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/15-ford-v8z-tech-board/ You are currently posted in the Gen 1 & II Chevy sub-forum. Good luck with your build and keep the updates coming!

Yep....happy to see an S30 on that show. Kinda' like when there was a V8 Z on "Pinks". Always good to see the Zs representin'!

Looks to be a pretty nice V8 conversion (with A/C!) I'm curious what the reserve is. Check it out at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-280-Z-1977-datsun-280-z-updated-v-8-cold-air-conditioning-original-body-video-/391068817472?forcerrptr=true&hash=item5b0d849840&item=391068817472&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Your title says "-40" offset, but your post says "+40" offset....assuming that "+40" offset is correct, since you're asking about spacers? I've been using 1" spacers for several years with no problems. I use these guys and have been very happy with their prices and the quality of the hardware: https://www.ezaccessory.com/

I'd be surprised if you decide that 5kg/in is too stiff.....they should work well for any street use, and even some light track use. (And Swift is good stuff, so they should last a good long time for you.) Good luck with the rest of the build.

More power to you for taking on such a project....bon chance und viel gluck!!

Just curious....what would be the goal of the full chassis swap? Modern suspension, etc? Like Sleeper said, you would be essentially chopping up a Z body and fitting the sheetmetal to the other chassis....basically Franken-Z. Good luck if you decide to attempt it....I'd be very interested to follow that project!

How about this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121429-auto-shifter-assembly-40/

Two thumbs up! When I first built my current V8 swap, I used the stock auto shifter as well. It worked just fine for street use. Once I started racing the car, I switched to a B&M ratchet shifter for speed and safety. Keep the updates coming!

I agree with NgoZ....you're probably better off going with a car that's at least running (and nominally, driving), since you're looking for a decent drivetrain to transplant into your rust-free shell. From the pictures, this one looks kind of like a rust-bucket that may or may not have the parts you need.

Check your PMs, Selvin. Thx for your interest.