jhm

I had wheels like that many years ago; and if I recall correctly, they were American Racing.

Glad it helped.

These may help: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13240-A-spotters-guide-to-Subaru-differentials http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/differential.htm#Which Subarus do I look at to find an LSD http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700

Confused here.....are you saying that you've searched for an OEM-like replacement, and can't find one? I did a quick search on several major parts retailers, and many listed in stock. Maybe I'm missing something here? http://www.autopartsexpress.com/beck-arnley-081-0218-drum-brake-shoe?cse=GoogleProductSearch&utm_source=google%2520product%2520search&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=Drum%2520Brake%2520Shoe&gclid=CjgKEAjw286dBRDmwbLi8KP71GQSJAAOk4sjlDL6XoplypJYmM-1_sWXqOf3EkkNu0AesGcgVbP5i_D_BwE

Yes, should be more than fine, provided you've got struts (i.e. shocks) that are compatible with your springing. I've got a late '74 with an old iron-block/iron heads SBC that I'm running with 224 lb/in front and back. And previously, I was running Tokico 5022 springs, which if I recall correctly, are 185 front and 200 rear. I daily-drive the car in the off-season, and race it pretty regularly summer and fall...mostly auto-x and closed-circuit HPDE. Good luck with it and be sure to post your results for the benefit of everyone else.

If your heart is set on Tokico struts, there are a couple sets on eBay right now (for a 240).

Rob- You're saying that the inside of your tires is getting worn? If so, it could be due to too much negative camber and/or poor alignment. Check both. Is this occurring on both the front tires and back? If it turns out that you've got a lot of neg camber and that's what's causing the excessive wear, you'll want to dial in more POSITIVE camber....which is somewhat unusual, but not unheard of. Most people installing camber plates (and coilovers) are usually looking for more negative camber. Hope this helps. r/John

You *may* be able to use those plates with stock-sized springs and perches, but you'll get no camber advantage over and above what you can achieve by slotting the three mounting holes in the strut tower. I suppose you would get some additional lowering, as well, if that's your goal. What are your objectives here? There may be other, more effective solutions.

The same manufacturer also produces a "universal" plate for adjustable camber AND caster. I may have to procure a set, just out of curiosity, if nothing else... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MK1-Universal-Fit-Adjustable-Caster-Camber-Plates-Datsun-280Z-/161148545667?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258533aa83&vxp=mtr

Auction ended with 0 bids....not surprising.

Intriguing-looking product. I wonder if they work with stock-sized springs and top spring hat....the language in the eBay ad indicates that they are only compatible with coilover kits, but the pictures imply that they're a 1-for-1 replacement with the stock strut insulator.

Came across this info while researching LSD options....great info with lots of pics...enjoy! (My apologies if this is a repost.) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13240-A-spotters-guide-to-Subaru-differentials

This should help...free FSMs for all years S30. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Not sure if I understand your question correctly, but an electric choke is typically grounded to itself (somewhere on the carb body) and the hot lead is connected to a switched circuit. My current Holley (4150) with electric choke works fine for me, but I have had electric chokes in the past that I couldn't get to work correctly and I eventually installed a manual system.

Possibly this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56254-after-doing-some-reading-i-blocked-off-the-upper-grill-pics/

Good advice, as always, from JohnC....he's the Master! If you are experiencing any interference between the sway bar and the LCA, driveshaft(s), or lower subframe; and don't want to switch to a rear-mounted bar; you can play with adjusting the length of the sway bar end-links to give more clearance where needed. Typically, if you have stock ride height (or even if it's lowered an inch or two), it generally won't be an issue.

Phantom- Nothing wrong with that bar or mounting config. As said by the others, that's the stock mounting point. I used a set-up like that for a couple years (racing) and had no problems. You can also replace it with a thicker aftermarket bar as well, if the stock bar is too soft. The only time you're going to run into issues with that mounting is when the car is lowered sufficiently so as to cause interference between the bar and your lower control arms....that's when it's time to switch to a rear-mounted sway bar. Until then, you're fine.

Have that exact same light in my car! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83021-aircraft-style-interior-dome-lamp/

Sounds like the master cylinder and/or slaves may need rebuild? Did you replace the seals on the MC when you cleaned it?

In addition to HybridZ, there are some great forums out there for small block chevy owners. I often use these two... http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/ http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/index.php ....but there are plenty others.

No....none that I remember (but it has been a while, to be completely honest). Most of these vendors are pretty good about posting specs, or answering questions via their tech support.

I'm sure there's plenty of vendors out there, but I've ordered wheel adapters from "EZ Accessories" and "TC Sportline"....both offered good prices, quick shipping and decent customer service. No problems at all with fitment.

How about welding a decent piece of flatbar across the two diagonal legs of the control arm? (With a hole drilled for the sway bar end link.) That would essentially replicate the stock mounting position, no?

WRT used tires, I run 15" wheels and have never had trouble finding 10" slicks and 275 A6s in great condition at good prices. I even have a set of super light 13" wheels that work really well on tight courses. Good luck whatever you decide.

What tires are you running? Don't know what class you're running, but V8 Z's often end up in XP, which gives you the ability to run ANY tire you want. If you don't want to spring for new racing tires, used can be found aplenty on eBay and Craigslist for very cheap. One of the easiest ways to reduce your times.