jhm

Intriguing-looking product. I wonder if they work with stock-sized springs and top spring hat....the language in the eBay ad indicates that they are only compatible with coilover kits, but the pictures imply that they're a 1-for-1 replacement with the stock strut insulator.

Came across this info while researching LSD options....great info with lots of pics...enjoy! (My apologies if this is a repost.) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13240-A-spotters-guide-to-Subaru-differentials

This should help...free FSMs for all years S30. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Not sure if I understand your question correctly, but an electric choke is typically grounded to itself (somewhere on the carb body) and the hot lead is connected to a switched circuit. My current Holley (4150) with electric choke works fine for me, but I have had electric chokes in the past that I couldn't get to work correctly and I eventually installed a manual system.

Possibly this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56254-after-doing-some-reading-i-blocked-off-the-upper-grill-pics/

Good advice, as always, from JohnC....he's the Master! If you are experiencing any interference between the sway bar and the LCA, driveshaft(s), or lower subframe; and don't want to switch to a rear-mounted bar; you can play with adjusting the length of the sway bar end-links to give more clearance where needed. Typically, if you have stock ride height (or even if it's lowered an inch or two), it generally won't be an issue.

Phantom- Nothing wrong with that bar or mounting config. As said by the others, that's the stock mounting point. I used a set-up like that for a couple years (racing) and had no problems. You can also replace it with a thicker aftermarket bar as well, if the stock bar is too soft. The only time you're going to run into issues with that mounting is when the car is lowered sufficiently so as to cause interference between the bar and your lower control arms....that's when it's time to switch to a rear-mounted sway bar. Until then, you're fine.

Have that exact same light in my car! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83021-aircraft-style-interior-dome-lamp/

Sounds like the master cylinder and/or slaves may need rebuild? Did you replace the seals on the MC when you cleaned it?

In addition to HybridZ, there are some great forums out there for small block chevy owners. I often use these two... http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/ http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/index.php ....but there are plenty others.

No....none that I remember (but it has been a while, to be completely honest). Most of these vendors are pretty good about posting specs, or answering questions via their tech support.

I'm sure there's plenty of vendors out there, but I've ordered wheel adapters from "EZ Accessories" and "TC Sportline"....both offered good prices, quick shipping and decent customer service. No problems at all with fitment.

How about welding a decent piece of flatbar across the two diagonal legs of the control arm? (With a hole drilled for the sway bar end link.) That would essentially replicate the stock mounting position, no?

WRT used tires, I run 15" wheels and have never had trouble finding 10" slicks and 275 A6s in great condition at good prices. I even have a set of super light 13" wheels that work really well on tight courses. Good luck whatever you decide.

What tires are you running? Don't know what class you're running, but V8 Z's often end up in XP, which gives you the ability to run ANY tire you want. If you don't want to spring for new racing tires, used can be found aplenty on eBay and Craigslist for very cheap. One of the easiest ways to reduce your times.

I would think you'd be fine with 3.54 rear end. The first gear ratio on the 700-r4 is plenty low (3.06), especially considering the 240's light overall weight.

Excellent! Sounds like a good find....congrats and enjoy.

Looks nice from the three pics you posted. What tranny does it have? If it's not an overdrive transmission (i.e. 2- or 3-speed auto, or 4 speed manual), that should give you some negotiating power. A V8 Z w/o overdrive is not much fun to drive on the highway. Good luck with it -- hope it works out for you.

+1 on the upgraded headlights, which can be accomplished extremely inexpensively by driving the headlights directly off the alternator vs running through the combo switch. Search "headlight alternator relay mod" and you should get lots of hits. Also, didn't see anything about swapping out the stock seats for something more supportive (and often more comfortable). LOTS of great ideas in the "seat swap list" threads under 'Interior'. Also a very cheap upgrade if you take your time to find some nice, used replacement seats. Keep up the good work!

This is the Corbeau Clubman installed in my late '74 260. Easiest seat install ever....the seat is narrow, non-reclining, and I did a "fixed-mount" installation (i.e. no rails). Fabbed mounting brackets from 1.5" flat bar, shaped to mimic the lower portion of the stock seat sliders. I plan on using this seat during the racing season, and then swapping my Recaro knock-offs back in for street use during the off-season.

http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/1979-2013-mustang-corbeau-clubman-seat-black-cloth And $10 shipping!

Jon, that's true...depending on wheel offset and design. My aluminum mags have enough negative offset (i.e. low backspacing, high "lip") that they clear the calipers without any grinding required. Others, like steel racing wheels, might not require as much neg offset if they are of a thin design and manufacture. Finally, one can always use wheel adapters and spacers to move the wheel out away from the brake hardware.

I'll second Tony D's recommendation for 13 inchers as autocross wheels. They lower the car, lower your overall gear ratio, and reduce the unsprung weight. I have a light set of aluminum 13x8 wheels with sticky Hoosiers that I use for auto-x. That being said, I'd recommend a cheap set of ANY stock Z wheels for your fabrication and roller needs...they can be found all over Z forums and Craigslist for next to nothing. Good luck.

Here's a couple additional thoughts on relocating the battery. I also used a brass hot post in the engine compartment, similar to EF Ian....it works well. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113373-relocating-battery/

If you're looking to do budget coilovers, it's hard to beat Cosmo Racing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Coil-over-Coilover-fit-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-74-78-Adjustable-Lowering-Springs-/251457469605?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a8c087ca5 A few guys here are using them....search and you should be able to find their threads. Good luck and happy motoring.