jhm

Likely no problem with your bar. Some easy solutions you can consider are flat spacers between the bushings and your frame rails or try playing with the length of your end links....either one might solve your clearance problems. Good luck with it.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but wouldn't the backspace be 5.0" with 0 offset on a 15x10? Not sure if you saw this discussion, but it may have some useful info for you: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110251-custom-wheels-9wide-19mm-offset/?hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bwidth+%2Bbackspace&do=findComment&comment=1030715

Off-topic; but were you at Hyperfest last weekend, Cameron? Heard it went well, despite the crappy weather. Good luck with the repairs. r/John

Thx for sharing, Cygnus! Haven't heard much from you lately....been busy with other projects? Good choice on the Miata seats -- they are cheap, light and plentiful.

Admins- This "Steve B" does appear to be replying to many of our WTB ads, and his replies all appear to be a similar same scripted response. Perhaps someone can verify his credentials, and remove/ban him as a user if warranted? No sure what procedures, if any, we have in place for this type of situation. Thank you in advance.

Looks like you're off to a great start....good luck with it. P.S. I, too, really hate it when I see frame rails that are totally destroyed because some jackass thought they would make a great jacking point. Frustrating as hell.

Looks like a ST rear bar for 240, with some funky homemade mounting brackets. Even though it was originally designed for use on the 240, it's a very popular upgrade on the 260s and 280s, as it does not bind with the rear LCAs on lowered cars like the stock sway bar is prone to doing.

I have this one, if you're interested. (It has the "Datsun" insignia vs the shift pattern insignia.) Wood, metal insignia, and threads in good condition. $40 shipped anywhere in the U.S. PM me if interested. Thank you.

Ditto what clocker said....I had those model Prelude seats in my late '74 260 (with the catalytic hump in the trans tunnel) for a couple years and really liked them. Lightweight, supportive and comfortable.

Obviously you already understand that there's numerous variables at play here.....but the short answer is yes, you should be fine with the setup and usage you describe. I'm assuming your ZX has an R200?

If you don't get many responses, try "Ratsun.net" and "the510realm". Both are pretty good 510 forums.

If you decide to go with Hoosiers, I'd try buying used before springing for new tires. You'll save yourself a bundle, and you can try your fitment without spending a bunch of money on something that may not work in the long term for your application. I've bought from this guy many times, and have never been disappointed: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

The latest electric designs are pretty sophisticated and are getting good reviews. I think there are several threads in the Steering sub-forum on power steering conversions. Here's one OTS-type conversion, but I've seen others: http://zpowersteering.com/

Either there's a typo in the ad, or the seller has some high hopes. I would go look at it if it were closer to me. http://newyork.craigslist.org/stn/cto/5322955108.html

Sounds as though there's a short in your hot wire going from the switch (at the pedal) to the lights. You could try to track it down (which may take a while), or you could run a whole new wire. Not a very elegant solution, but certainly a quick one, if that's where the short is occurring. You should be able to test the leads at the switch with a multimeter. Check if you're getting 12+ volts at the fuse panel side; and check if there's continuity between either lead and a ground. That may help narrow things down a bit. Good luck with it.

Mike, you should be careful with that winch.....that cable could snap and cut you in half. I've seen it happen. That's really dangerous. Maybe you could lay a rug or something over the cable? It's under 2000 lbs of tension and could whip back cutting everything in its path in half. It's really dangerous. Sorry.....couldn't resist.

It just "happened".

Ha! I was a little confused by your comment as well, John....thx for clearing that up!

Beautiful workmanship....thx for sharing!

Not mine, but seems like a pretty good deal for a mostly original 240 that appears to be in excellent condition. http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/5241983001.html

This thread seems to have taken off on a tangent from the original post "Fender flare position". Might want to start a new thread with new title?

Nice find! Stories like this always make me jealous!

I recently swapped out my TH350 for a built 200-4R in my late '74 260. The transmission crossmember was the only major change required, as the mounting points on the 200-4R are a few inches further aft than on the TH350. I fabricated a new trans mount, but you can purchase pre-made mounts from a variety of sources. A 700-R4 might be a pretty tight fit in your '71, especially if you're running a JTR-style mounting position for the engine. Typically requires widening the trans tunnel...some do it with a BF hammer; others actually fabricate a new tunnel.

Yeah...good question. Perhaps the dimensions of the four holes changed a bit over the years? It sounds like the earlier runs required a press fit, and the later versions did not. I don't know if Todd was using the same machinist(s) for these as John originally was (John Williams, I believe). Enjoy your LSD -- it's a beautiful thing!

Nope....mine just dropped in as well. The D shape keeps them from spinning when tightening the nut. Used them like this the whole last season without any loosening or issues. This is the only first-hand experience I've had with the WCR side axles, but they're working fine without the press fit that the OEM side axles had. I'm sure others will chime in.