jhm

How about these? http://www.ezaccessory.com/4_Lug_to_5_Lug_Adapter_44505450t_p/4450-5450t.htm The 1.75" thickness may be thicker than you want.... Have dealt with this vendor many times, and am always pleased with price, quality and customer service. P.S. Like the wheels very much -- good luck with it.

How about one of these? There are many other sources out there, but here's a couple I've done business with in the past and never had a complaint. A used unit should work fine also, if you don't feel like buying a new part....sensors can be easily tested in a pot of hot water using a separate thermometer to check your sensor readings. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1878 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7110ki http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.datsunstore.com/sensor-water-temp-7579-p-1400.html

...and the "Wheel Show" thread, as well. A lot of guys include suspension particulars in their posts, to make it as informative as possible.

No worries. If they came off a 240, they most likely are the stock 4x114.3 lug pattern (unless they were mounted using lug adapters). 4x100 is popular with the Honda crowd (and I think Mini Coopers, also). GLWS

Yeah...that's the standard BRE-style front spoiler. Made with and without ducts for front brake cooling. Also made in two different shapes for the different shape of the lower valance on the early S30s vs later models. You can usually find them used if you don't feel like buying new.

Old trick to isolate internal engine noises is to use a large screwdriver (or any piece of steel rod) and place one end against the head or block and the other end to your ear. Basically works like a stethoscope. By moving the end around different locations on the motor, you can usually get a pretty quick idea where the noise is originating from. Good luck with it.

If the bolt pattern really is 4x100, they won't sell here very quickly. Old Datsuns have 4x114.3 (4x4.5") lug pattern. May want to recheck your lug measurements. You also may want to consider moving this post to the "Parts for Sale" section vs "Parts Wanted". Just sayin'... GLWS.

Hard to tell...but they look sort of like the ones CosmoRacing sells. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productlist.asp?cid=259 There's always generic no-name kits on eBay and such; and they can be made to work fine with the right choice of springs and shocks (and camber plates too, if you're going that route). Biggest variable with those would be spring rates....do the springs have any kind of markings?

If looking for a low-budget LSD solution for the R200, the OBX is probably a much better choice. Latest reports I've seen on these units are mostly positive....better machining and quality control than the early units.

Mike, I think you could safely say that about almost ANY component on that car!! Truly excited to see it running again.

If none of the commonly-available bars fit, a metal shop could fab one up for a reasonable price -- it's a pretty simple piece of hardware. I've seen several homemade bars that are way more beefy than commercially available bars. I personally like the solutions that add new mounting tabs on the side of the strut towers, vs bolting to the top three strut studs. Just another option to consider.... Nice looking car BTW!

It's very cool to see these old beauties pretty much as they rolled off the assembly line four decades ago. Hope they all go to folks that will appreciate them.

Was running Tokico blues with the Tokico springs. Switched to Illuminas when I put the 224 lbs/in springs. I believe most people consider 250 to be the safe upper limit for Illuminas, but I've seen differing opinions. My next set of shocks will likely be Bilsteins, along with stiffer springs.

You may have more than one issue going on at the same time; but in regards to your question on fusible links....yes, they could certainly be a problem. They're a 40-year component that carry a bunch of amperage....go figure. Most guys replace them with heavy-duty fuses (e.g Maxi-Fuse) or relays. Search on "replace fusible links" in the sub-forums and you'll find a ton of helpful info. Regarding any other issues, best approach is to isolate and test....electrical gremlins can take time to track down. It sounds like someone has installed a push-button start on your car at some point? That might be a good place to start. Here's a link to FSMs for all years S30s -- the wiring schematics can be your best friend in situations like this: http://www.xenons30.com/ Hope this helps.

This might meet your needs: http://www.soloracer.com/corbeauclubman.html

I'm far from being the expert here, but I think you can leave the strut tubes as-is if you're not planning to lower the car much. I believe there are several guys on here that have used the Bilsteins in their stock strut tubes (uncut) with the correct spacers and gland nuts. If you plan on lowering the car more than an inch or so (just a guess on my part), you'll probably want to section the strut tubes, otherwise you start to lose your suspension travel quickly (i.e. the logic behind sectioning the strut tubes enables you to lower the car but still maintain sufficient suspension travel.) Hope this makes sense, and I'm sure that some of the experts can chime in and explain it much more articulately. Good luck with it!

Stivva, looking good! Those are some big flares; what brand are they? I like!

han-solo, don't know if you got an answer to your question regarding bump stops; but yes, the Bilsteins have an internal bump stop so no need for another "external" bump stop. (I'd be surprised if one could even find a production bump stop that fits on that massive chrome shaft!)

Yeah, I saw that thing on my local CL and couldn't figure out what they were thinking....maybe too lazy to install headers that actually fit in the engine compartment?? I'll call him in about six months to see if he's interested in parting out.

I don't mean any offense, but have you tried searching the "Interior" sub-forum using those keywords? There are plenty of threads discussing those exact seat installs, which should hopefully give you more than enough info. Not sure what year your Z is, but there's another 'seat swap' list that's specific to 280s (and late '74 260s), unique because of the reduced lower width due to the bulge in the trans tunnel to allow space for the cat converter. You can find that thread at: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88301-280z-seat-swap-list/?hl=%20280z%20%20seat Hope this helps, and be sure to post your results as well, after you've completed your swap. Thx, and happy motoring! r/jhm

Have you checked out something like these? They'll space your wheels out 1.75", but that may or may not be a good thing for you depending on your goals for the car. At $129/pair, they might fit the bill. As an FYI, I've bought from this vendor previously, and their stuff is pretty decent quality. Good customer service and quick shipping also. http://www.ezaccessory.com/4_Lug_to_5_Lug_Adapter_44505450t_p/4450-5450t.htm

That is one slick-looking item and installation....I need one! Had a local autocross recently where there was a particularly tight/low-speed 180 and it was just KILLING me to get the car rotated correctly and quickly while all the other guys with "newer technology" (read "power-steering, etc") were zipping through it. Thx for sharing.

Bummer that the PO lied about the rear end, but not surprising. Obviously, there's a bunch of great info on here regarding differential options (check out the Stickies in the "Drivetrain" sub-forum under "FAQs") but there were a couple very recent discussions on LSDs which may help you get started and pointed in the right direction. Good luck and happy motoring.

Love it! Thx for making me laugh, John....got a good chuckle out of this one.

Is your heart really set on coilovers? Reason I ask is that there are plenty of good spring and shock alternatives that will improve the handling and lower the car....all without the effort and expense of coilovers. Tokico, Eibach, and MSA are just a couple of the popular aftermarket springs that utilize the stock strut mounting, while lowering the car and offering a firmer/more controlled ride. Similarly, you can upgrade from the stock shocks to get more performance from the suspension without degrading the ride quality (shocks obviously won't lower the car, but they will improve the vehicle's handling, and are an obvious upgrade if you're already switching the springs.) And fortunately, it seems someone is always selling used springs and shocks at a fraction of the cost of new. I hope I'm not telling you something you already know (and my apologies if I am). Good luck with your upgrades.