jhm

At least half the time, the issue is with the grounding. 45-year old grounds often do not work well. IIRC, the ground for the rear lights is in a terrible spot under the rear hatch deck and above the tank. Could easily be corroded and grounding poorly. If you're checking it, you might decide that you want to move it to a different location altogether. At the risk of asking a stupid question, have you cleaned the contacts within the bulb socket and/or replaced the bulb itself? The rear lights are exposed to a bunch of moisture and crud, and the sockets can easily become corroded over time, but they are easily cleaned out with some fine-grit sandpaper.

Not even sure if I correctly understand the issue, but what exactly is too dim? The turn signal indicator lights on your dash (i.e. inside the tach face), or the exterior turn signal lights on the front and rear of the car? If it's the former, you could disassemble the tachometer and clean all electrical connections to ensure good voltage to the indicator lights; and clean out the interior (which often gets coated with dust and grit). If it's the latter, you can do the same cleaning of electrical connections and lenses...often makes a big difference in the amount of light transmitted. Finally, you can swap out the old incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs, which can make a huge difference in brightness. LEDs in the turn signals will require an electronic, or solid-state, flasher unit, as the LED bulbs do not draw enough current to activate the old-style thermal flashers. Hope this helps.

Download the FSM for your car at xenonzcar.com and check out the Body Electrical chapter. It will have all the diagrams and schematics you are looking for.

Very cool....thx, Clarkspeed!

Ditto what they said....two thumbs up for ZTrix (you may also find some internet info on "Reaction Research", which I believe is the name John Washington used to operate under.) Personally, I think the YZ is one of the nicest looking body kits out there. Good luck with it.

JBRacing is good, and here's another one worth checking (especially for cantilever slicks): http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563.

HybridZ is a great site (and my personal favorite), but there is also a ton of good info on some other sites you may want to check, particularly if you're doing restoration-type work: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ http://www.classiczcars.com/ Also, you'll want a factory service manual for your year and model. They used to be available on xenons30.com, but no longer. Search 240Z FSM and you may get lucky. You may have to pay for one, but it will be worth it many times over. Looks like a nice find -- good luck with it and have fun.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=1inch+rubber+grommet&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=190508408056&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4148781904786829751&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008565&hvtargid=kwd-296782376793&ref=pd_sl_3cn0xzpnz5_b

That would explain it. Thx. (And yes..."For Free" would be a great addition to the forum.)

Silly question, but JTR doesn't produce that part anymore? Still showing on their website, but maybe it hasn't been kept up to date? I have their rad mounts on my car, and can take measurements if you decide to fab your own. PM me. Happy to help.

Generous offer on your part, but probably should post this in the "Parts for Sale" section?

Off-topic; but that is one clean, shiny new-looking half-shaft, napabill!

I was working on my parking brake linkage the other day, and it looks like you should be able to put a spacer (or washers) on the long linkage...which would have the effect of "shortening" the rod, thereby tightening the system and hopefully giving you the capability to fully engage the parking brake. Good luck with it.

Sorry....meant to say that pressure recommendations can often be found on the manufacturers and vendors websites. TIreRack.com is a good source of data. The right answer will vary for every driver, based on numerous variables. Tire construction methods, compounds and materials vary significantly; and they all affect a tire's comfort, performance and wear characteristics. What I find "comfortable" may be intolerable to others. Some highways are in great shape....others are a crumbling mess full of potholes, expansion seams, etc. Experimenting with different pressures will yield the best result for you.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

What tires? Usually, the manufacturer's recommendation will give the optimum mix of comfort and performance for everyday driving...it's printed on the sidewalk.

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/?

Have you checked with JTR, as Tyler suggested? Probably costs a bit more, but may have it quicker for you if you need it asap. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html

Also, don't forget the importance of proper bumpstops. Recent discussion here covered this topic: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126177-ride-difference-between-cut-springs-and-coil-overs/?hl=%2Bbump+%2Bstops&do=findComment&comment=1179414

Thanks for all that info, Mark....and good tip regarding the longer adjuster bolt. The AZC arms are indeed $299 per side; but of course they include an adjustable TC rod, as well. Thx, everyone. r/John

Hey Greg- I alternate between 5 kg/mm and 6 kg/mm on my late '74 260 w/ SBC, which is used mainly for track events....probably on the low end for a track car, but most of the venues in my area are pretty smooth w/o much elevation change. I also like to drive it on the streets occasionally. I'm using Bilsteins in the front and Tokico adjustables in the rear -- they haven't blown up yet, but I'll probably switch to Koni yellows when they do. The car weighs roughly 2780 lbs, and is balanced pretty close to 50/50. IMHO, 200 - 250 lb/in should be a good starting point for you if most of your driving is on the streets. Road conditions and your personal preferences in ride comfort vs handling will be major factors in what setup works best for you. Good luck with it. r/John P.S. Forgot to mention that your Illuminas should be fine with 250 lb springs, as long as the shocks are still in good condition.

Has anybody tried these, or at least have some data on them? Seems like a new source for adjustable fronts, at a really cheap price. I hadn't seen these until recently, and figured I'd ask if anyone knew anything about them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-70-78-Control-Arm-Front-Aluminum-Adjustable-NEW-890-/322270157450?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item4b08cc5a8a:g:8oEAAOSwOdpX1bwb&vxp=mtr

This one seems popular: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WPW6BAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1472777344&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=obd+ii+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=41cD405-HGL&ref=plSrch

I had fuel starvation with just the stock mechanical pump for track use. Maybe it was my particular pump, but problem solved permanently with the electric pump.

Ditto Miles comments. I'm using a similar fuel pump in my mild SBC 350 with no problems. Not sure what HP you're making, but any decent electric pump should meet your needs. Probably want to incorporate some kind of automatic cut-off switch in case of crash or accident -- a cheap inertial switch works fine. As an FYI, I have run my car on the street with just the stock mechanical pump....it seems to work fine for general street use, but is clearly lacking for any hard driving.