jhm

There's no single answer to your question....Subaru differentials all vary based on year, model, and options. And their usefulness to you will vary according to your intended goals for completing the swap. Here's a couple threads from Subaru forums that contain some great info on the various differentials available over the years: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 There are also several threads on this forum by members that have performed similar swaps with their cars. Regarding stub axles....Wolf Creek is the only vendor I'm aware of for buying new 27-spline stub axles for the R180. If you decide to go with an R160, you can use factory stub axles for the Datsun 510. All swaps will require mixing and matching parts, but can be accomplished quite painlessly if properly researched prior to starting the swap. Hope this helps....good luck with it.

If zentech doesn't have what you need, I think I have an original one from an automatic 260Z (the entire shifter assembly). LMK if you're interested.

One of your posts asked where to get an FSM. Obviously, there's a bunch for sale on eBay; but here you can download free FSMs for all years S30: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Ditto on the great write-up! One advantage of leaving the stock lower spring perches intact is that if you, or a future owner, ever wants to go back to using a non-coilover setup, it's an easy swap back. Now that you have coilovers, you may want to consider taking advantage of some adding some negative camber......these are the cheapest plates I've seen. And they're actually of decent quality (I bought a set just out of curiosity). http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-PillowBall-Bearing-Strut-Upper-Mount-For-Coilover-Kit-Mounts-Plates-240Z-/161203739866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item25887ddcda&vxp=mtr Hope you enjoy your new setup.

Looks like you're off to a good start! (Say goodbye to whatever free time you may have had before on the weekends. ) If you decide to play around with spring rates, Swift and Tein are two of the few reputable companies that manufacture a good selection of coilover springs in 2.75" (70 mm) inner diameter that Cosmo uses. Good luck with everything and happy motoring.

zdlite hit the nail on the head...it depends almost entirely on your engine mounting. Your original post didn't specify what kind of mounting hardware and configuration you're using, so you might want to provide that in order to get a more definitive answer. The JTR-style installations mount the engine lower and further to the rear, and the Scarab-style installations mount the engine higher and further forward....resulting in huge differences in under-hood clearance.

Fairly common issue w/ V8 swaps....and there can be multiple issues/resolutions to the problem. Here's one of many threads in HBZ on this subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106140-tack-not-working-right-sbc-with-hei-coil/?hl=%2Bstock+%2Btach&do=findComment&comment=993151

Are you looking at universal hold-down kits like these? Or do you want something different? http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-hold-downs?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=battery%20ho&sw=Battery%20Hold-Downs

"Make sure the top of the Koni shock is held securely in place. The shock relies on the gland nut to properly position the upper seal. Not a great design because if the gland nut comes loose the seal fails." Good to know...thx for pointing that out, John!

Yeah...some of this specialized hardware (e.g. Koni & Bilstein gland nuts) can get pretty pricey! Nice to avoid when you can.

If the shocks fit securely with the Monroe spacer and gland nut, I can't imagine why you couldn't use them vs the Koni gland nut. Just make sure that the shock body can't move around within the strut tube once the gland nut is tightened, and that the chrome shaft doesn't rub anywhere on the spacer and/or gland nut. Probably a lot cheaper to reuse these parts vs ordering new nuts from Koni. If there's any significant gap between the shock body and the inner wall of the strut tube, you can eliminate the gap with some beefy electrical tape to ensure the shock sits snugly inside the strut tube. I guess you could try to return the Koni nuts for a refund, or find out what vehicle they fit and sell as new/used parts. Good luck with the rest of the install...I'm sure you'll love the Konis!

How about these? http://www.ezaccessory.com/4_Lug_to_5_Lug_Adapter_44505450t_p/4450-5450t.htm The 1.75" thickness may be thicker than you want.... Have dealt with this vendor many times, and am always pleased with price, quality and customer service. P.S. Like the wheels very much -- good luck with it.

How about one of these? There are many other sources out there, but here's a couple I've done business with in the past and never had a complaint. A used unit should work fine also, if you don't feel like buying a new part....sensors can be easily tested in a pot of hot water using a separate thermometer to check your sensor readings. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1878 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7110ki http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.datsunstore.com/sensor-water-temp-7579-p-1400.html

...and the "Wheel Show" thread, as well. A lot of guys include suspension particulars in their posts, to make it as informative as possible.

No worries. If they came off a 240, they most likely are the stock 4x114.3 lug pattern (unless they were mounted using lug adapters). 4x100 is popular with the Honda crowd (and I think Mini Coopers, also). GLWS

Yeah...that's the standard BRE-style front spoiler. Made with and without ducts for front brake cooling. Also made in two different shapes for the different shape of the lower valance on the early S30s vs later models. You can usually find them used if you don't feel like buying new.

Old trick to isolate internal engine noises is to use a large screwdriver (or any piece of steel rod) and place one end against the head or block and the other end to your ear. Basically works like a stethoscope. By moving the end around different locations on the motor, you can usually get a pretty quick idea where the noise is originating from. Good luck with it.

If the bolt pattern really is 4x100, they won't sell here very quickly. Old Datsuns have 4x114.3 (4x4.5") lug pattern. May want to recheck your lug measurements. You also may want to consider moving this post to the "Parts for Sale" section vs "Parts Wanted". Just sayin'... GLWS.

Hard to tell...but they look sort of like the ones CosmoRacing sells. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productlist.asp?cid=259 There's always generic no-name kits on eBay and such; and they can be made to work fine with the right choice of springs and shocks (and camber plates too, if you're going that route). Biggest variable with those would be spring rates....do the springs have any kind of markings?

If looking for a low-budget LSD solution for the R200, the OBX is probably a much better choice. Latest reports I've seen on these units are mostly positive....better machining and quality control than the early units.

Mike, I think you could safely say that about almost ANY component on that car!! Truly excited to see it running again.

If none of the commonly-available bars fit, a metal shop could fab one up for a reasonable price -- it's a pretty simple piece of hardware. I've seen several homemade bars that are way more beefy than commercially available bars. I personally like the solutions that add new mounting tabs on the side of the strut towers, vs bolting to the top three strut studs. Just another option to consider.... Nice looking car BTW!

It's very cool to see these old beauties pretty much as they rolled off the assembly line four decades ago. Hope they all go to folks that will appreciate them.

Was running Tokico blues with the Tokico springs. Switched to Illuminas when I put the 224 lbs/in springs. I believe most people consider 250 to be the safe upper limit for Illuminas, but I've seen differing opinions. My next set of shocks will likely be Bilsteins, along with stiffer springs.

You may have more than one issue going on at the same time; but in regards to your question on fusible links....yes, they could certainly be a problem. They're a 40-year component that carry a bunch of amperage....go figure. Most guys replace them with heavy-duty fuses (e.g Maxi-Fuse) or relays. Search on "replace fusible links" in the sub-forums and you'll find a ton of helpful info. Regarding any other issues, best approach is to isolate and test....electrical gremlins can take time to track down. It sounds like someone has installed a push-button start on your car at some point? That might be a good place to start. Here's a link to FSMs for all years S30s -- the wiring schematics can be your best friend in situations like this: http://www.xenons30.com/ Hope this helps.