jhm

Welcome! Looks like you're off to a good start.....good luck with the build and be sure to keep those updates coming!! (Looks like you got a steal for $1700.)

Yeah.....I think most people that have done this swap are merely replacing their open R180 with an LSD R180, which avoids the issues you're running into. The input flange from any S30 R180 "should" work (i.e. I don't believe it needs to be from a 240Z). And yes, the shorter R180 would nominally require a longer driveshaft than an R200. However, keep in mind that Datsun moved the differential rearwards in the middle of the 240 production years (I think between '72 and '73). This change improved the half-shaft angles, but resulted in a different mounting position for the diff. What year is your car?

$16 at HarborFreight.....cut to length: http://www.harborfreight.com/3300-lb-capacity-2-in-x-27-ft-heavy-duty-ratchetingtie-down-1-pc-60689.html

Thx, Leon....I obviously need a better grasp of the obvious. There was some discussion here recently about Datsun Z Fiberglass. Extremely small market for these products, so be sure to find a vendor you're comfortable with before spending your money. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120342-datsun-z-fiberglass-a-real-review/

Wheel spacers ("adapters") to push the wheels out, which would in turn allow you to move the leaf spring bracket out and give you the additional needed width? It's hard to tell from the pictures if this approach will work, but it looks like it might. Silly question: does your trailer have ramps, or does the entire deck pivot in order to load the car? Is it possible to "lock" the deck in the level position and use removable ramps to load the car? jt1's approach should work as well....and you really wouldn't even need to build up the whole deck....just the two tire tracks on the left and right outer edges of the deck.

Sounds like you're quite chuffed about this....and rightly so! I'm sure it will be quite a challenging, but rewarding, project for you. Hope you enjoy it. Curious what the original donor was. You say "1978 260Z"...a typo perhaps, and it's a 280? Please continue to post updates. The lines of the old Ferraris are quite lovely.

Check. Be sure to post your results....I'm sure several folks would like to hear how the Ermish kit works (myself included!)

You can fab a pair of axles from VW or Porsche parts. There's a regular on "the510realm", Matt, that produces aluminum adapter flanges to interface the VW/Porsche CVs to Datsun 4-bolt flanges. With the recent tragic passing of Todd Walrich, I wouldn't count on the Wolf Creek kits being available too much longer....I don't have any insider knowledge, just reading the tea leaves. Other's may have more info on WCR product availability.

Nice!! I've seen those flatheads in allen head also, but typically only in fastener specialty shops for the sizes needed for camber plates. Can order them online too, I guess, if needed for future uses.

Yeah, that was just the first example that popped up on ebay. Have no personal experience with that one, but I did purchase this one a year ago and it seems fine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Boss-Kit-For-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-620-C10-N-2-/121080938105?hash=item1c30fc7e79&vxp=mtr One of those things you can spend as little or as much as you want to on it.

Probably better to just get a 6 bolt hub than adapting your Grant hub to the Nardi wheel. There's a bunch of them out there for cheap...this is just one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Boss-Kit-For-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-620-C10-/121609124601?hash=item1c5077faf9&vxp=mtr

Check. Here's a couple good threads from NASIOC that discuss the various types of LSDs that were available in Subarus through the years: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700

Wow....super clean-looking car!! Hope you find what you need. (Have you looked at any of the generic prefab stuff sold at auto parts stores? Just a thought.)

If I recall correctly, you will need a set of 510 side axles between the R160 and the stock half-shafts. Check the 510 forums to confirm this; but otherwise should be fine, and a good bit lighter and more compact than the R180.

Rain in WA?? That's crazy talk! Probably too late now, but is there room to drill two new holes for new mounting points to replace the two existing mounting bolts that are interfering with your adjustment plate? This might be preferable vs cutting notches as you were originally thinking. Used to run with Mark in Virginia Beach...his 240 is one of the nicest I've seen. Good luck to you both -- fingers crossed for decent weather.

Not that your approach won't work; but if you'd rather not cut your GC plates, what about switching to a smaller adjustment plate (like the one used on AZ ZCar camber plates)? http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html

Good call from Bruce and Pete. Dibs on your extra set if it turns out they're right!

Yes, I have an electric auxiliary fuel pump wired as discussed....power from a hot post, fused and inertia switch in line, along with manual switch in cockpit. Only need it when racing; the primary mechanical pump is fine for street use by itself. This seems to be a fairly common setup, so there's really no reason why it won't work for you. What's your intended usage for the vehicle?

Bilstein P30s? I don't know if anyone would say they're "as good" as Konis; but they're way cheaper, and have a very beefy construction. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120805-what-is-the-most-recommended-suspension-set-up/?hl=%2Bbilstein+%2Bp30-062&do=findComment&comment=1131060 What's your spring rate and usage?