jhm

This thread seems to have taken off on a tangent from the original post "Fender flare position". Might want to start a new thread with new title?

Nice find! Stories like this always make me jealous!

I recently swapped out my TH350 for a built 200-4R in my late '74 260. The transmission crossmember was the only major change required, as the mounting points on the 200-4R are a few inches further aft than on the TH350. I fabricated a new trans mount, but you can purchase pre-made mounts from a variety of sources. A 700-R4 might be a pretty tight fit in your '71, especially if you're running a JTR-style mounting position for the engine. Typically requires widening the trans tunnel...some do it with a BF hammer; others actually fabricate a new tunnel.

Yeah...good question. Perhaps the dimensions of the four holes changed a bit over the years? It sounds like the earlier runs required a press fit, and the later versions did not. I don't know if Todd was using the same machinist(s) for these as John originally was (John Williams, I believe). Enjoy your LSD -- it's a beautiful thing!

Nope....mine just dropped in as well. The D shape keeps them from spinning when tightening the nut. Used them like this the whole last season without any loosening or issues. This is the only first-hand experience I've had with the WCR side axles, but they're working fine without the press fit that the OEM side axles had. I'm sure others will chime in.

+2. The pre-made pans also have more structural rigidity, due to the additional bends and creases. Obviously, you can do all that yourself as well, with the right equipment and time, if you so desire. I have seen cases where homemade flat pans deform over time.

Used to have one, but it hung pretty low and became more of a hassle for normal street use than it was worth. There are a few vendors that produce these, with varying fidelity, quality, and fitment. I don't know who originally produced mine, but it was kind of a pain installing....very poor fit, and required a lot of cutting, bending and swearing. Looked good when it was done, but I ended up replacing it with a custom lip that provided better road clearance. Sorry -- this is the only picture I could find of it installed. P.S. Two different shapes for the early S30s vs later years, which had a more rounded lower front valance. Make sure you get one that's the right basic shape. Lower valances can also be swapped, if desired.

Have you seen these? They're one of the few options available that meet your budget goal of $300, and they seem to have reasonable performance. There are a few vendors on eBay that carry them. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117631-new-s30-shock-and-spring-option/?hl=%2Banother+%2Boption+%2Bstagg

Ditto what Bruce said. If you're serious about buying track tires, I would spend some time perusing the (many) racing forums online....SCCA Forums and NASA Forums are two good ones to start with. You can always find reviews and discussions on the latest tire technology.

Are you planning on running that welded R200 on the street? That would be pretty unpleasant IMO. I echo Rebekahsz's comments on the Goodrich T/A COMPLETELY....except for the 'cheap' part. Normal retail on those POS is $150 each....gimme' a break!! If you're willing to go to a 195 width, there are several decent tires available for much less. Unfortunately, the tire companies are offering less and less options these in the 14" and 15" sizes. Seems hard(er) to find good selections in 16" even. Believe it or not, you can find a better selection in 13"! I have a set of really light 13x8 wheels that work great for auto-x....been thinking about trying them out at the local strip sometime. Many of us have several sets of wheels, which may be the path you end up taking in the long run. Hard to find a single combination that works well for street, strip and track use. But it sounds like you've already figured that out from your research. If you decide to buy some really high-performance rubber for competition, start by looking at used tires. Several good vendors out there that offer decent used tires for very little money....I've bought a bunch of stuff from this guy, and have always been happy with my purchases: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Welcome! Looks like you're off to a good start.....good luck with the build and be sure to keep those updates coming!! (Looks like you got a steal for $1700.)

Yeah.....I think most people that have done this swap are merely replacing their open R180 with an LSD R180, which avoids the issues you're running into. The input flange from any S30 R180 "should" work (i.e. I don't believe it needs to be from a 240Z). And yes, the shorter R180 would nominally require a longer driveshaft than an R200. However, keep in mind that Datsun moved the differential rearwards in the middle of the 240 production years (I think between '72 and '73). This change improved the half-shaft angles, but resulted in a different mounting position for the diff. What year is your car?

$16 at HarborFreight.....cut to length: http://www.harborfreight.com/3300-lb-capacity-2-in-x-27-ft-heavy-duty-ratchetingtie-down-1-pc-60689.html

Thx, Leon....I obviously need a better grasp of the obvious. There was some discussion here recently about Datsun Z Fiberglass. Extremely small market for these products, so be sure to find a vendor you're comfortable with before spending your money. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120342-datsun-z-fiberglass-a-real-review/

Wheel spacers ("adapters") to push the wheels out, which would in turn allow you to move the leaf spring bracket out and give you the additional needed width? It's hard to tell from the pictures if this approach will work, but it looks like it might. Silly question: does your trailer have ramps, or does the entire deck pivot in order to load the car? Is it possible to "lock" the deck in the level position and use removable ramps to load the car? jt1's approach should work as well....and you really wouldn't even need to build up the whole deck....just the two tire tracks on the left and right outer edges of the deck.

Sounds like you're quite chuffed about this....and rightly so! I'm sure it will be quite a challenging, but rewarding, project for you. Hope you enjoy it. Curious what the original donor was. You say "1978 260Z"...a typo perhaps, and it's a 280? Please continue to post updates. The lines of the old Ferraris are quite lovely.

Check. Be sure to post your results....I'm sure several folks would like to hear how the Ermish kit works (myself included!)

You can fab a pair of axles from VW or Porsche parts. There's a regular on "the510realm", Matt, that produces aluminum adapter flanges to interface the VW/Porsche CVs to Datsun 4-bolt flanges. With the recent tragic passing of Todd Walrich, I wouldn't count on the Wolf Creek kits being available too much longer....I don't have any insider knowledge, just reading the tea leaves. Other's may have more info on WCR product availability.

Nice!! I've seen those flatheads in allen head also, but typically only in fastener specialty shops for the sizes needed for camber plates. Can order them online too, I guess, if needed for future uses.

Yeah, that was just the first example that popped up on ebay. Have no personal experience with that one, but I did purchase this one a year ago and it seems fine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Boss-Kit-For-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-620-C10-N-2-/121080938105?hash=item1c30fc7e79&vxp=mtr One of those things you can spend as little or as much as you want to on it.

Probably better to just get a 6 bolt hub than adapting your Grant hub to the Nardi wheel. There's a bunch of them out there for cheap...this is just one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Boss-Kit-For-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-620-C10-/121609124601?hash=item1c5077faf9&vxp=mtr

Check. Here's a couple good threads from NASIOC that discuss the various types of LSDs that were available in Subarus through the years: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700

Wow....super clean-looking car!! Hope you find what you need. (Have you looked at any of the generic prefab stuff sold at auto parts stores? Just a thought.)

If I recall correctly, you will need a set of 510 side axles between the R160 and the stock half-shafts. Check the 510 forums to confirm this; but otherwise should be fine, and a good bit lighter and more compact than the R180.

Rain in WA?? That's crazy talk! Probably too late now, but is there room to drill two new holes for new mounting points to replace the two existing mounting bolts that are interfering with your adjustment plate? This might be preferable vs cutting notches as you were originally thinking. Used to run with Mark in Virginia Beach...his 240 is one of the nicest I've seen. Good luck to you both -- fingers crossed for decent weather.