jhm

Agree with Nullbound. It should clear....IF you have the car high enough on jack stands. I'm assuming you have a leveler?

You didn't mention the differential mounts, so I would check those as well...this includes the front mount at the nose of the diff and the rear mounts/mustache bar. Even if the nuts and bolts are tight, you can get movement and vibration if the bushings are worn. Most people replace the OEM stuff with poly bushings. And don't forget to check your lower control arm mounting points, as well. I had a rear vibration under similar conditions as you a few years ago and it was driving me nuts trying to track it down. Turned out to be worn rubber bushing on the inner spindle bolts of the LCAs. Replaced all four of them with these guys, and problem solved. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.3104 Good luck with it.

Not sure which harness you have, but you can usually swap out the mounting hardware on many harness setups. (And you can also swap the rear part of the shoulder harnesses as well, as pointed out by theczechone.) Also, have you considered a 4-point roll bar as an alternative to the harness bar? Usually see used bars online for not much more than the new T3 harness bar. Another option for your consideration... Good luck with it. And be sure to post your results once you've decided which route to go. Thx!

Yep, nothing wrong with that. In my case, I eliminated it to give more clearance for the exhaust. Others remove it for weight savings. The little U clips on the rear mounts of the LCA inner spindle also fit the forward mounts. Keep up the great work!

That is one beautiful-looking undercarriage! FYI -- a lot of folks don't use the lower diff mount after installing a RT-style upper mount. You obviously still can use it, if you want, but may not be necessary depending on your intended usage, suspension setup, engine output, etc, etc.

I've been using these for a few months, on both my hazards and turn signals. No issues so far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139OH24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one...you want the entire strut assembly? I can PM you pics tomorrow.

PMs working ok for me (on Firefox).

Looking good, as always, Mark! Curious what parts you used for your CV axles....specifically, which CV joints and what size axle? I'm about to do the same mod on my '73. Thx, and keep the updates coming!

Ditto...same here, with IOS. Haven't been able to login mobile for roughly a week now.

These do not have a significant impact on alignment. They do not change the steering arm mounting points or geometry, and therefore do not have a significant design impact on the front end alignment. The major geometry change occurs in the location of the lower end of the strut, and therefore, the position and location of the front spindle. If you're already planning to do a front-end alignment, I would hold off until you install these first. You may want to try doing the alignment yourself....it's really not that hard, and a good skill to learn, especially if you're planning to do some different types of racing and/or different tracks. Racers are always playing with different alignment settings to optimize performance. Good luck with it.

I installed them recently, and they definitely corrected my LCA angle while giving a good bit more negative camber. Quality and fit are pretty decent. Haven't had a chance to test them at the track, but haven't detected any downside with them yet on the street.

I've seen a few guys use diamond plate for their floorboards...certainly would hold up well to wear and tear.

Summit and Jegs have a huge selection of overflow tanks in many shapes, sizes, and prices.

One pack (36 sq ft) was enough to do a good portion of the interior (floors, roof, and rear deck). I ordered a second pack to do the remaining nooks and crannies (doors, etc), and really only needed a few sheets of the second pack....still have a bunch left over that I'll probably use in my other cars.

Nope, no smell (even when brand new in the box). Haven't found any drawbacks to it yet, and I've had it in the car roughly 6 months.

I'm using a Noico product, and am reasonably happy with it. Good adhesion (even on the roof) and good sound damping qualities. Priced much better than some of the other products, and it's available in black. https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deadening-automotive-restoration-insulation/dp/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502376017&sr=8-5&keywords=noico+80+mil+sound+deadener

Hey Greg, have you seen these? Looks like they have what you're looking for. http://stores.ebay.com/wheelspacers2/DATSUN-4LUG-4X114-3MM-4X4-5-/_i.html?_fsub=1748279619&_sid=675963999&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

I have one in ok condition....it's in storage; it'll be a couple days before I can get to it for pictures. Shipping will probably not be cheap, even though I'm on east coast, just due to the large dimensions.

Ditto what 73z85.0 said!

http://www.zcarsource.com/exterior-tail-light-panel-240z-260z-280z_8_56080.html

Holy crap. Just came across this series of videos on Youtube. Scary. I honestly hope no one has ever used them for instructional purposes. What a freaking hack. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kWFnYo05yE&t=312s

Do you feel the vibration, or hear it? Or both? Under what conditions do you notice the vibration? Just cruising at highway speeds? Is it worse under load (either acceleration or braking)? A "no load" vibration indicates something out of balance (e.g. driveshaft or half-shafts). A vibration under load might be due to worn bushings in your LCAs, mustache bar or differential. One way to isolate the source of the vibe would be to have someone else drive, while you crawl around the hatch with a stethoscope.

Hey Leon, I've got a 2000 3rd gen 4Runner (with an automatic) that I occasionally use for towing my race Z (late-model 260 on an open 2-axle car trailer...similar to what you'd be towing.) As a daily driver, I love the 4Runner. I get 22 mpg on the highway, and that 3.4 liter V6 is pretty much indestructible, and the interior is quite large -- back seat is surprisingly comfortable and roomy, even for two adults. If you fold the back seats down (which I usually do), there's a TON of room for cargo -- can easily carry two complete sets of race wheels with room to spare. I bought mine 10 years ago; it has approx 190,000 mi on it; and I haven't had a single major issue with it....zero, zip, nada. As a tow vehicle, it works fine if you're mostly on flat roads. It really struggles in the hills. If you have the 5-speed, it would be better; but it would probably still struggle -- IMO, the 3400 does not have the torque and power to maintain highway speeds on any kind of major incline when towing 3000-4000 lbs. The larger base and option engines available on the 4th and 5th gen models would obviously be much better for towing applications. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other info.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it would be pretty much impossible to guess what seat may have been installed previously using the welded-in mounts. Furthermore, I would hesitate to reuse them unless you are able to absolutely ensure their integrity. A lot of folks will cobble something together when installing aftermarket seats without any real consideration to strength or safety. We have a couple of really good threads here regarding seat swaps, if you're interested. IIRC, one is a pinned thread and another one is 280-specific (due to the hump in the trans tunnel for the catalytic converter.) Sorry couldn't help more.