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I've always liked the design and quality of construction of the KMAC hardware....I'm just too damn cheap to spring the $ for it. These latest units look nice and offer a lot of adjustability; just keep in mind that it *appears* that they will impose a bit of a LIMFAC on suspension travel and/or ride height, as compared to other, "shorter" camber plates on the market. (Just a guess on my part, based on the appearance of the design....one would want to check actual H/W dimensions to know for sure.) But for bolt-in pieces that give caster and camber adjustment, they look hard to beat! It's a shame the old EMI plates are NLA.

I believe there are a few discussions on this topic, but this should get you started:

Where did you happen to find those front ZX calipers, if you don't mind my asking? Maybe I just happened to be looking during a supply shortage?? I ended up with 4 piston Wilwoods that have been working well for my setup.

Good thing you've decided against the S130 calipers, Aydin. I had looked into that option a couple years ago (along the lines of what Terry Oxendale did with his car), and I swear those calipers were NLA anywhere! New, used, reman, etc....I looked for a couple months and found nothing available. You might have had better luck this year, on the west coast, but it appears to be a moot point for you now. I think you'll be much happier overall with the Wilwoods. I like your custom front air dam! Looks very IMSA-like. Put a thick rubber skirt along the bottom edge to give a good seal with track surface and still be flexible/survivable. Making the unit yourself means you won't have to spend the $ to replace it when you inevitably destroy it in the future. (Speaking from personal experience, of course). 😜

Yes, I liked that option, too....eliminated the need for separate side axles if you were swapping in a Subie LSD R180 IIRC (which I had done). Glad to see some other vendors offering different options.

...And, at least for now, they appear to be unavailable. I remember when DatsunRestoMods was producing that style axle, but they advertised a lower power limit (200-250 hp, IIRC). I loved the design concept, but they stopped producing them before I was ready to spend the $. It would be nice if T3 continued to produce these....especially at $595/pair.

🤣🤣🤣

I sold the gauges from a couple 260s 3 or 4 years ago; and IIRC, they sold for various amounts between $20 - 60. They were all in good functional and physical condition, like yours appear to be. It’s important that the connectors and pigtails be in good condition, to get a decent selling price. All factors being equal, I would guess that your clock will be the most sought after. I had the best luck selling mine on ClassicZCars, eBay, and the Datsun classified pages on FB. Hope this helps.

If I understand your question correctly, the stock brake line fittings are 10mm x 1.0. When I mated Wilwood Calipers to my system, I used a brass adapter fitting to mate the OEM fittings/lines to the Wilwood brake line inlet. All the necessary specs on your Wilwood calipers can be found here: https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-6816. Looks like you'll need an adapter with male 1/8-27 NPT - female 10mm x 1.0. Hope this helps.

Yeah, I noticed that as well. But it does offer the ability to export the data in a couple different format to allow analysis using other software tools. https://www.racebox.pro/info/session-export Personally, I’ve been using Harry’s and TrackAddict; but am looking to incorporate more sophisticated data logging/analysis capabilities this year. Clark gave me a great deal on a DL1, and I’ve only just begun to scratch the surface with it. Always on the lookout for new and interesting capabilities, and this one caught my eye. r/John

On the topic of data logging tools, has anyone had any first- or second-hand experience with the Racebox Pro? (I didn't know this, but it's produced in Bulgaria.) Seems to have a lot of organic features not inherent in many other data devices. The biggest weak point I've come across is the app apparently, but the company seems to be improving it and releasing new updates regularly. Overall, looks like a lot of capability for the money ($279 on Amazon). https://www.racebox.pro/

Good catch, @NewZed !

Yes, many of the cheaper ones work fine…as long as they fit tightly on the splines. I’ve used a couple of them (like the “Boss”) without any issues. If you’re considering a removable or tilt hub adapter, I would not go cheap. The cheap ones don’t lock securely, they don’t last, and can rattle loosely. I’ve been using an NRG removable hub the last two years and really like it.

Hmmmm....I don't think they'd be different. I've used several of the same steering wheels on different years without any issues. It's possible that our measurements differ by 1 mm because I was measuring the ID of the steering wheel mounting hole vs you measuring the OD of the steering shaft....and they're both splined, which can result in small differences in measures. There are many hub adapters available to fit the Z; just make sure you get one that has the correct bolt pattern to match whatever aftermarket steering wheel you choose. Something like this one offers two different bolt patterns for wider compatibility: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262525631164?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=262525631164&targetid=1645685073808&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9008565&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073808&abcId=9300841&merchantid=101732007&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw8OeBhCeARIsAGxWtUxpzV5oqsS3RU9JHDRjsUVCegH8PwffL3jdbZA6SpbYsds4fwLuodwaAtV7EALw_wcB If you've been wanting a removable (or tip) steering wheel, now's a good time to do it! NRG makes some nice, quality hub adapters for that kind of thing.

Here ya’ go: Diameter, 14 7/8” Depth, 4 3/4” Thickness, 24 mm Steering shaft dia, 16.5 mm Steering shaft splines, 36 Took these measurements off a metal, three-spoke wheel…from a 1973 260 IIRC.

@fusion, do you need measurements from a stock steering wheel? I think I have one lying around and can measure it for you, if you like. LMK. As Jon pointed out....steering wheel positioning (and steering effort) is a highly personal thing. And it's relational to several other factors, like driver's physical attributes, seating position, and the car's intended application. What feels right to one person can be horrible for another.

I can second that! I’ve had a couple sets of 13” wheels and really liked them for auto-x. In addition to the weight advantage, the smaller wheels can lower the CG without compromising suspension geometry.

Yep, that was it. Thx much, @tube80z, @NewZed!

Good points all. The unavailability of Site Admins the last couple years seems to have negatively affected the forum in a variety of ways. Several folks have volunteered to step in/help out in an Admin capacity...no idea if any were accepted.

I would say so, with the addition of the right pads and fluid (as you are already planning). Many of the 370s I see at the track are running stock brakes; but most have switched out to a better pad (e.g. Porterfield, Carbotech, etc) and a good high-temp synthetic fluid. Keep in the mind that the 370Z weighs close to 1000 lbs more than your 240. I ran the stock brakes on my car for track days a couple of years before upgrading....when upgraded with better pads/shoes/lines/fluid, the stock system is quite capable & well-balanced. So you should be in good shape with your upgrades, assuming they've been implemented correctly.