jhm

Such a bummer to see all your hard work going up in smoke (literally) — but a big Kudos to you for deciding to rebuild. Best of luck with it. 👍👍

Welcome to HybridZ! What are your plans for the car? TONS of great info here....start with the FAQs, if you haven't already done so. Good luck with the build!

See Post #10 in the attached thread from ClassicZCars: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45461-parts-for-oem-np-valve-and-brake-indicator-switch-unit/?_fromLogin=1

Can't tell from your second post if it's fully sorted; but it's not at all unusual for the split washer to dig into the metal on the steering wheel hub. Don't overtighten it -- follow the recommended torque spec. Do you have sufficient thread engagement on the nut? If not, consider swapping the thick split washer for a thinner style lock washer...that should easily add at least a couple threads' worth of additional engagement. Alignment: if you're not happy with the centering of the steering wheel, you don't necessarily need a full front-end alignment. Just decide which direction you want to adjust the wheel to, and adjust the tie rod ends in equal amounts on both sides until you're happy with the steering wheel centering (it will only take a very small adjustment of the tie rod ends....recommend starting with a quarter turn each). Hope this helps.

Should be a pretty easy problem to solve. As you said, check all the linkages; and be sure to check the pedal mounting pivot point (in the footwell)....there’s a spring there also, which might be affecting the pedal action.

Good advice from @AydinZ71. I would add one additional thing to consider....if your primary concern is during stop & go traffic, consider popping the hood release and letting the hood ride open a couple inches while relying on the safety catch. (This assumes that you have a properly-functioning hood safety catch.). Used to do this all the time when I had to drive in a heavily-congested area. It allows a lot of underhood heat to escape, and doesn’t have the high pressure buildup at windshield base as there is at speed.

If you haven't already done so, I would post your Want Ad on the S30 pages on FB....the one that comes to mind most immediately is "Swapped S30 Owners Group".

@grretc may be familiar with these.....I’m sure he’ll chime in if so.

If you’ve already decided to swap in cv axles; DriveShaftShop makes a very stout pair for less than the Z Car Garage units. Both are way overkill for your intended setup IMHO. Also, neither of these address the stock stub axle; which is what your original post seemed to focus on. Good luck with it.

You seem to have a pretty good grasp of the issues and most available options; and yes, the outer stub axles are "generally" the weakest link in the system. However, there are a couple other considerations which will factor in to your overall result: which transmission you end up with; which tire/wheel setup you end up with, and driving usage. 1) Auto trans are generally kinder to the drivetrain. 2) Big, sticky tires are generally less kind to the drivetrain. 3) Heavier cars are generally less kind to the drivetrain. 4) A smoother/gentler driving style is ALWAYS more kind to the drivetrain. (By far, the biggest factor within your control.) The stock half-shafts are surprisingly stout, when maintained in good working order. Mine have lasted several years of hard autocross and track use with 275-width R-compound tires (I've broken the R180; but no problems with the half-shafts, side axles or stub axles) . If yours are working now, I would suggest continue using them until they fail. By then, you'll have a better idea on your objective setup and goals for the car. Making big changes to the rear end now is really just a lot of time and expense for something that you may never actually need. FYI -- if you decide you really need CV axles, keep in mind that many (most?) of those solutions limit your rear sway bar options.

FYI -- you're posting a question about a 1953 Chevy truck in a Datsun Z-car forum. You may want to repost your question in a forum for vintage Chevy trucks, and you probably want to include more info in your post (e.g. what motor was in the truck previously; what bolt pattern does the 4-speed tranny have, which "350" engine you plan to install, etc). Regardless....if the 350 is a traditional SBC motor; and if the bolt patterns on old trans and the new engine match, you should be able to physically mate the two units together. If the engine is anything other than an SBC, you'll want to do some more research after arming yourself with more detailed information about the planned engine swap. Best of luck with your project -- it sounds like a good one.

Yes, they are quite good IME. I run both the BP10 and BP20 compounds, and even the softer BP10 are quite adequate for 30-minute heats at the track.

Cool find...thx for sharing. I’ve looked at KW stuff before, but it’s always been out of my price range.

...or ClassicZcars.com. They’re very big into original parts for restoration purposes.

FWIW, I used to run a set a wheels that were 14x8, et0 with 225/60 front and 235/60 rear with stock-configuration suspension (Tokico lowering springs on stock strut housings) and custom steel flares. Did not have rubbing issues on the inner side, so I suspect your wheels with -13 offset should be ok in that regard. I think the biggest potential issues you might run into in the future (besides the obvious issue of performance tire availability) is the limitation of options on upgraded running hardware (e.g. brake upgrades, adjustable tie rod ends, adjustable LCAs, bump steer spacers, etc.) If any of those upgrades are on the horizon for you, trying to fit any of that stuff in a wide 14" wheel will not be easy, if not downright impossible. Nice-looking wheels, BTW!! 👍👍

Nice video, @Sanchez -- thanks for taking the time to produce it. Looks like a great candidate for a Sticky in the FAQs, IMHO.

Aydin, at the risk of stating the obvious, double-check the recommended max extension for those double-adjusters in your front LCAs....should be a combination of the number of threads engaged (on both ends) and length of exposed (unengaged) threads. The convenient thing about wheel spacers (and spacer adapters) is that they can be quickly added or removed without affecting front end alignment, and they can also be used to easily fine-tune your effective spring rate (both the strut springs, and the anti-roll bar if applicable).

FYI for @dorothytaylor61jy (and anyone else interested in this)....if you're unable to contact @Randalla here on HBZ, he also sells the book on eBay. I just bought it there and had immediate communication from him regarding the sale and shipping info. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224939391356?hash=item345f6eb97c:g:ocoAAOSwvmJiWZno Excited to read it!

Have had nothing but good experiences with usedracingtires.com, that Clark mentioned, and usdrrt on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/str/racetiresusdrrt?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563). USDRRT always had a good selection of nice-condition cantilever slicks at really good prices; but I haven't bought from him in a while so am not familiar with his current inventory. He always seemed to have a lot of SM tires, so that might suit your needs nicely.

Looking good, Clark! Since you’re this early in the fab stage, how about modding those strut towers so you can remove the shocks and springs out the top (vs having to lower the LCAs and swing the strut tubes out of the fender every time you want to make changes)? I’m always envious of the Mustang guys that can easily pull their struts out the top of the towers.

I would tend to agree with Aydin...does seem a little gimicky; but then again, it’s only $50. If you like the idea, that part is easily fabricated DIY, but make sure it’s easily removable (I.e., not welded) to ensure ease of removing your MC when you need to. If your firewall is structurally sound, it should be plenty strong for street use with the occasional track day. If you’re concerned about it, just reinforce that area while the car’s on the rotisserie. I guess I could imagine some possible firewall flex if someone were running their car without brake boost, which obviously requires a lot more pedal force to achieve the same level of braking.

NCRAs are another method of obtaining additional track width (on the front) without resorting to wheel spacers. But they can result in interference between the LCA and the wheel, depending on what size/style/material wheels you're running. It's all a bunch of trade-offs.....just have to decide which setup will work best for your particular application. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/evolved-roll-center-adjusters-datsun-240260280z

No, it's not IME. As Jon mentioned, it generally results in a performance decrease. Most people with adjustable TC rods use them to increase caster; which improves straightline stability and allows one to run less static camber (for better straightline braking) while still demonstrating good dynamic camber characteristics while turning (when the additional negative camber is most needed). Keep in mind that adjustable TC rods are designed to run in conjunction with adjustable front lower control arms, which use monoball heim joints for frictionless freedom of movement through multiple axes. The stock front LCAs, which use OEM rubber bushings or aftermarket Delrin bushings, do not enjoy such freedom of motion and will bind if stressed beyond their intended range of motion. You didn't say what width wheel spacers you're using....but keep in mind that the thicker you go, the more they will affect your effective spring rate (results in a softer effective spring rate). If you are using "thick" spacers (1" or thicker), you should be using "wheel adapter spacers", which incorporate their own wheel studs. https://www.ezaccessory.com/Hub_Centric_Wheel_Adapters_4x4_5_To_4s4_5_p/4450-4450ha.htm. If you're worried about the asthetics of the wheels not being centered in the wheel well; you can always factor that in when selecting your mounting locations for the new flares.

Yep, that link worked. Thanks for the reference data! @fusion, the discussion may have gotten a bit off track....but did you get the info you needed to make a decision for your 280?

FWIW, my experience is that any of those "smaller" rear spoilers essentially do nothing for downforce. (They can help in cleaning up the rear airflow of the car to reduce in-cabin exhaust fumes.) I can't point to any specific aero testing; but IME you need something like a whaletail, or a tall wing, to measurably increase your aero downforce on the car. Similarly, front airdams can help with engine cooling by creating a negative pressure cavity under the engine compartment. They can also increase high-speed stability by eliminating pressure buildup under the front end of the car. If your car is a "street car with a few passes at the dragstrip per year", I would get whatever you like aesthetically. I've had the BRE spoilers front and rear on several of my cars, and the look is timeless IMHO.