cygnusx1

Here is what I have been working on for a customer/friend of mine. I am taking my time, but I need to get it done soon. I need my garage back! Complete photo gallery here": http://dcer.smugmug....17251802_Wdn3pD Workin' Man... All clean... Ready for the drop...

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Oh boogers. I'll probably get a box of air then.

I just went on Rock Auto and found ONE available. I ordered it. Now it says none found. We will see if they come through.

Condolences Mike, and it's great that he was your hero. Sometimes parents don't quite understand what we do. In my opinion, within the last three generations, the world has changed socially, more quickly than it ever has before. This "change stretch" has made it more and more difficult for each generation to relate to the next. I am going to try to keep up with my son, and keep an open mind, as I gather you are also doing with your family. Take the good that he taught and pass it on.

Nice ride. The steelies are cheap and can take one heck of a beating before they give up.

They all leak there unless you goop them up. Post sealing works on them too. Been there!

Hot fuel at high elevation is definitely a bad combo. I have read that suburbia fuels tend to be formulated with lower vapor pressures, than big city fuels.

I have an old video of my L28ET wide open at Watkins Glen, I always thought it sounded bigger than itself. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1045584680923352138

Ebay has them. Look for T3 rebuild kits. This should work. Check with the seller though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GARRETT-T3-TURBO-MAJOR-MASTER-TURBOCHARGER-REBUILD-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19c789f44aQQitemZ110721889354QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Yes, do the light flywheel. I have one in my turbo Z and my weber Z. Great in both cases.

Buy some rubber cord stock in a rectangular or square profile, if you can find the right size. Get a sharp exacto and cut a v-groove where the line will pass through. Try here: http://acehose.com/7...-cord-stock.htm http://acehose.com/7...tock.htm#5711_2

Nice. I would bring the two lower side "splitters" about 2" more towards eachother, in a taper, instead of ending them in a vertical line with the hood lines. There is going to be ALOT of air getting into the engine bay and under the car, leading to lots of front end lift. Need to close that hole up about 80-90%. It could be a hidden false panel behind whatever grill you design. Best of all, it's very original and it works visually. Interesting how you handled the headlight bucket disparity.

Can you pick up an engine in NY? I just pulled a motor out of a 77 ZAP that was running well. It has somewhere in the 100k mile range. It sounded like it needed an exhaust manifold gasket or just a drill and tap of the rearmost manifold stud. That stud is broken in the head.. Good compression. It needs a water pump and an alternator, maybe a crank pulley if I need it for the new engine. No trans. $130. I also have the EFI harness and box. $100

I know what to get you for your birthday. A washbucket, sponge, and some car soap. ...keep it clean!!!

Lesson is, don't trust anybody.

I have a keychain I/R thermometer designed for checking components in the RC hobby world. It's seriously cheap, from China, and works fine for short distances and relative temp checking. http://www.hobbyking...-Measuring.html This is the one I bought. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8297__Turnigy_Infrared_Thermometer_33_180Celsius_.html

Sounds a bit strange that the OBX could kill a pinion bearing. It sounds more like the diff failed all on it's own due to wear and tear. The OBX is pretty much a neutral player when it comes to the diff bearings. Unless, you got metal shavings in the oil, OR the bearings were not set up properly during assembly.

I rebuilt my motor, stock with a 0.020 over bore. I spent a lot of time re-tuning after the rebuild. This map is running well for me. There are a lot of changes since my last submission. I dialed in EGO Control by experimenting with transport delays, to dampen out the corrections, so they are stable. I also fixed up the cranking enrichments and the after starts. The AFR map has also been tweaked for better driveability. It's not focused on economy. I am leaving economy off the table for this car. I don't like the way it runs when I try to get econo lean AFR's. EMS: Megasquirt II Firmware: 2.687 MAP: 4 bar sensor Wideband: LC1 Innovate about 3" past the turbo. Idle contoller: none IAT: GM Coolant Sensor: 280ZX Head Temp Sender TPS: 240SX Injectors: Ford Lightning 42# high impedance 440cc Turbo: T3/TO4B hybrid Intercooler: 18x3x11 Spearco Engine: Datsun L28ET F54/P90 (stock long block) Throttle Body: 240SX with spacer Exhaust: 2.5" downpipe and back BOV: Vented TurboXS Ignition: Ford EDIS-6, 36-1 trigger wheel, dodge coil pack. Car: 1976 280Z Flywheel: Fidanza Boost: 14psi Knock Sensor: none CurrentTune.zip

16x8 0 offset with 225/50 on a stock 240Z with 1"lowering springs. No rubbing except for when I hit a heavy dip in the road which rubs the outer rear tires lightly.

Taking my mom on the track in my Z would be a stunt for sure. She would try to rip my head off to get out of the car. The stunt would be, driving headless.

My Z used to throw flames when I ran 65psi fuel pressure on boost with the factory injection system at 14psi.

If it's used, and does not spin freely, I would go for a rebuild while it's out or let a pro look at it like you said. If you have the thought, you have to go with your hunch.

The bearings are probably covered with a break-in/storage grease. I have a hunch that once they "break in" they will feel much looser. The bearings should consume much less energy than the bushings, once the turbo is at speed.

Email going out.