cygnusx1

Wow those are nice....too bad I'm laid off. <---surfs to checks job sites.

No, you could eat off of my engine. It's clean. The oil is definitely from inside the bell housing and it's engine oil. Either the rear seal(s) or the Braap Plug.

LOL on the last two posts....you guys ARE NOT helping! LOL. You both fully understand the dilemma. ROFL.

I did the fence with pressure treated lumber. Quick and easy. Full length boards. Jesus was busy on another job. I had to do it myself.

Here is the home we bought 13 years ago. Our first home. It was 1000 square feet originally. Last time I got laid off in '04, I added another 1000 square feet. The extension I did, is the gable on the right that goes back about 35 feet. It's a two story extension "L", on a one story ranch. Today, I finished the fence along the front yard. My wife asked for a fence 12 years ago. I finally got it done. Really to keep the kid and his toys off the street. Now back to the Z. Next job is to pull the Z motor and refresh it.

It's definitely motor oil...smells like it, looks like it, tastes like it. Engine runs strong. Oil pressure is still up. It just runs out the weep hole in the bell housing when the car is running. The engine pull begins tomorrow. The boy is in daycare for the day so I will be in Z-care for the day. Assuming the bores are all good and round, and the crank and rods are clean and in spec....99.9% sure they are... I can do a modest revamp of the lower half for around $500 in parts from RockAuto, including all the bearings, gaskets, seals, rings, timing set, and oil pump. OR I can do #15 on this webpage "while I'm at it".... http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html and spend about $1200. Complete Gasket Set Copper Performance Head Gasket (I'll stick with the Nissan factory gasket and my ARP studs.) ROSS/Wiseco Forged Performance Pistons (86mm bore) and (8.5-1 comp ratio) Performance Rings Performance Wrist Pins TOGA HP Main Bearings (std, 10)* TOGA HP Rod Bearings (std, 10)* Then I will add ARP main and rod bolts.

The trans is solid, the top end is solid. Even the bottom end is (was) solid. I guess I'll start the engine pull tomorrow and order some rings, timing kit, and maybe bearing shells. I will also send the flywheel and clutch assembly out to get balance checked. Maybe the new clutch flywheel were out of balance and stressed out the rear seal. I have an extra crank that EvilC gave me. My crank has always had a bunked up keyway for the timing pully. I'll mic up the new crank and order bearing shells if it's within spec. Thanks for the encouraging advice! When you own a Z, bad things happen for a reason! UPGRADES!

Pulled into my parents driveway with the Z and when I got out I noticed some oil drops on the driveway. I looked under the Z and the front edge of the bell housing was dripping, and there was a run of fluid coming from the slave cylinder boot. The problem just started within 3 miles, so I caught it early. I thought it was the slave cylinder at first but no such luck, it's motor oil. Darn!!! I just practically finished the trans swap and the Fidanza flywheel. Just to confirm...the only way engine oil could be in the bell housing would be from the rear main seal right? Options??? Since I am currently laid off, I have time. 1) Pull the 150K mile motor, hone it, and ring it and fix the seals. 2) Just pull the trans and oil pan and replace the seal and move on with it. The motor does suck some oil past the rings although compressions are good. I just put on a brandy-newly rebuilt head this Winter. :hs:

Anyone else have trouble on their subscription page? Nevermind...it works now.

Remember, on the dyno, the fuel isn't sloshing around kicking up crap in the tank....if that's the problem.

At a bare minimum, beef up the factory weld and that should hold for a while. Other than that, you can take it as far as you want. I would cut them off and rebaricate the tabs in a heavier gauge with "tabs" where they contact the body, to spread the load out. This is based on what I have seen happen, first hand.

Datsun's aren't grassroots! We are sofistikated!

Nice but a word of warning. I have seen the weld/metal crack on the original tabs that protrude from the body. I would beef up the tabs that the mount is getting bolted to. Look at the difference in material strength! Those tabs would break off with a vice grip pretty easily.

I have wrapped the injector bodies with silicone foam rubber, and the fuel rail with two layers of foil backed fiberglass liner. It will still vapor lock if I park it hot with the hood shut in about 15 minutes. My hood is the early non-vented style, my turbo gets really hot, and I run a dead head setup. I have the worse case scenario. What seems to help is cycling the power on and off to megasquirt two or three times when it's a hot start. Each powerup runs the purge cycle, flushing some of the vapor out through the injectors. I am going to try increasing the PW for hot starts next. I may make some vented inspection lids too. Anyone have lids for sale?

I am going to test some front SMD-LED setups. I ordered a set of silicone encased, 12" white strips that run on 12volts. I might make angel-eyes around the headlamps, or line the lower edge of the headlight buckets, inside the headlight covers similar to Audi. I am tired of people not seeing my relatively small and camouflaged car in broad daylight and crossing into my lane. I feel sorry for motorcyclists. I already use these strips in red and green to illuminate my RC plane for night flying. They are BRIGHT. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=107&products_id=24355

I have always wanted to fabricate a front splitter but my driveway would kill it because it's too steep. However, I can add splitters to the front corners and wrap them up into the wheel well, as was shown to be beneficial in the aerodynamics thread. Opinions please. No jokes about the vasoline! I use it for the rubber seals to keep them from squeeking and drying out. I would wrap the splitter to the inside of the brake cooling duct in the air dam. Here- ^ They would be made of aluminum and painted semi-gloss black. Opinions?

Is the stock downpipe really 3"? I didn't think so. As far as the AFR's past 5500 rpms, they do look acceptable. The stock turbo cam makes reduced power up there anyhow. You could shift around 5000rpms, be safe, and not lose anything. http://dcerutti.smugmug.com/photos/87171623_sLBj2-L.jpg

Janaka, My 280Z with the 15/16" brake master, and the AZC brake package, has a pedal that it so solid, I had to adjust my brake light switch. Incredible braking power, especially when they are at operating temp. Make sure you are running good sticky tires and hang on tight! Get the car up on four jackstands with all wheels removed. I use a 2 foot length of 1/8 scale RC Car Silicone fuel hose. Drop the end of it into a jar of brake fluid, making sure it stays submerged (attach a weight if needed). Force the other end over the bleed nipple. Silicone hose seems to stretch onto almost any size nipples tightly, and allows you to twist the nipples without any resistance from the hose (kinky ). Open the nipple, pump about five times, smoothly and check the level in the master. Repeat about 2-3 times per bleed screw. I do it all alone and never had an issue. On the front Wilwood calipers, start with the outside nipple and then the inside nipple. Make sure you bench bleed the new master before you put it on. Search google for bench bleeding. DO NOT get any fluid on the paint (for the newbs). BTW, where are your mudflaps from? I like them.

For reference, I made 260rwhp with the entirely stock ZXT fuel injection system BUT, I ran a Begi-RRFPR after the factory FPR, and a walbro pump. At 14psi boost, I was climbing to about 65psig fuel pressure. I didn't have a WBO2 sensor but on the dyno, I could get it to run too rich if I went over 65psi fuel pressure @14psi @5500rpm. The intake/exhaust/turbo were not stock. It's just a reference suggesting to you that the stock fuel injection should not be going lean at 185rwhp and can very well support more HP. Nice test. Impressive gains.

Put a one-way valve in your HVAC vacuum lines. The direction as follows: It should be able to blow into the intake manifold but not into the HVAC system. You DON'T want boost getting into your HVAC vacuum servos. They are not boost servos. Look at where my check valve is right below the vacuum brake booster line mount on the firewall. It's the little disc in the vacuum line..........................................here |

I think he asked about fitment on a ZX. Mine are on a 76Z and clear the 11.2" Wilwood brakes. They should fit a ZX. I don't see why not. SOmeone must have them on a ZX in here. Search the Sportmax thread.

Looks incredible Austin. Where's your front splitter? Is that it, leaning on the cabinets?

LiPo batteries are mean SOB's. Lots of power in a small and light package. All my planes fly nothing but Lipo. They are about the size and weight of a pack of cigarettes and can probably crank and start my real Z car! 2200Mah, 12volts+, and 70amps! Tomba, post pics and vids!

That's in Como Italy. I have spent quite a bit of time there. I've never seen that car though! Very cool indeed.

To minimize future cracks, a possible solution might be to layer in some light weave fiberglass cloth over the entire dash, when using the filler. Or, instead of using a filler, try a resin or polyurethane instead. Then shoot it with bedliner.