crapforum

I got a complete l28 out of a 77, but im out here in NC

Well I'm back and its 2016. Did you do it?

Just put a jet turbine in there, I see it get done all the time with these cars. On another topic are you like 16 or something? When you want to come back to reality you may want to begin looking at what people actually do to these cars in other posts. Also I hope you have $50k handy for your dreams.

Hello everyone, so I got myself a second Z, a 77 280z this time. The PO said it needed a new ignition switch because it wouldn't turn off, but me knowing electrical systems I new something else was the issue. After fixing all the ghetto hotwiring they had done to make it run I traced the issue to the ignition relay. It wasn't opperating, strangely both relays in the housing weren't opperating (one is for key ON and one for key ACC). Taking out the relay and popping the cover will reveal something as shown (didn't take a picture so had to use one I found) The part circled in red is where both relays have wires connect to each other, this is the ground wire and attaches to the metal casing housing the relay. This will break when you remove the cover. If you hook a wire to this part and hook it to the battery's negative and then take a wire to the battery positive and touch it too the terminals in the relay that go into the big block thing (that is an electomagnet) you should see and hear the relay pull that thin piece of metal towards the output contact and make a click. if this happens then you know your relay works, and the issue is with the ground. To fix this solder a wire to the ground bus (circled in red) and then solder that to the housing of the relay. MAKE SURE IT DOESNT TOUCH ANY OTHER PART OF THE RELAY. Plug the relay back in and enjoy your working relay. If instead you pop a fuse then your newly soldered in ground is in fact touching a part of the relay electromagnet and shorting, open it up and check your wire.

Its AEM not Am. May want to update your title. It looks neat, am I reading it correct that its free for "non-street" use?

I have cxracing mounts and I can tell you the issue is not the hood hitting the intake that I had to worry about buy the intake hitting the hood latch. Definately will not clear a truck intake, if you dont have the hood latch clearance issue with your mounts then I think a shaved truck intake would be extremely close, but most likely still hit.

What made you chose that turbo? I'll be following this one, your build helped me a lot when I did mine.

ROFL, that's not quite the purpose of a roll cage. Don't buy a crate motor whatever you do, the SBC platform is WORTHLESS! The only thing good about it is the low cost which you are completely eliminating buy getting a crate motor. I had a 350 small block and thought it was great and then after dumping a small fortune building on it to be a beast it underperformed and did not last long. The SBC will start leaking oil eventually no matter what you do and are not made to last 100k miles like the ls. Sorry to all you guys running them but they are just so bad now as you can get a truck ls motor for the same or less. Get with the times and stop being afraid of computer controlled engines, they complexity of the wiring is easily offset by the simplicity of the mechanics (no more valve lash adjustments!)

The sensor is the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) the big hose is for pulling vacuum for power brakes

lt1swap.com for the wiring harness guide. 98 should be simpler wiring harness I'm pretty sure, and I think VATS on that can be bypassed by wiring instead of flashing it out. Just follow the diagram they put on there and then tie all blacks together to ground and all pinks together to 12v switched relay

You swap anything on this motor or is it all bone stock 5.3 stuff? How are you tuning it, hptuners or something? Could be a bad MAF, truck wiring harness in good shape? You get rid of VATS?

They sell the alternator mount on eBay for truck depth pulleys, that's what I used. And yes you need to drill and tap a hole on the block as well.

I have a 73 240z with ~480hp/tq at the engine and a tr6060 6 speed. Very original otherwise, will sell for 25k

Whats with the carb and truck oil pan? Looks like you alternator will fit on driver side, but will be very very close.

Roadkill used the v6 turbo setup because they were trying to be cheap and ghetto (ended up not being cheap, but definitely ghetto). That 5 speed manual is a pile of trash, as you could see on the show they broke it very fast so don't think about using that if you are going to put any power down. Chevy v8 is the common route people take, I would also suggest it, unless you want to be JDM or something. Also running twin turbos does not mean faster spool time, spool time is all about turbo construction, and think about it this way if your using two smaller turbos your also getting half the exhaust spinning them up as opposed to one bigger turbo getting it all. You should ask how much horsepower you are looking for and that will tell you what motor and or forced induction to run. You only need to worry about the axles breaking if your doing some hard launches with some sticky tires, and the car chassis can take plenty of hp. Mine has 480hp, stock r180,stock axles, and some rust on the floor rails (I wouldn't consider them frame rails on a 240z). The 280z is a tougher car too.

No, there are no relays in the engine wiring harness. There is a heavier gauge wire that goes to the starter solenoid but it terminates at a plug on the other end which will go to the fuse block/bcm and crap on the stock 5.3's vehicle. Assuming you didn't pull out the Datsun's wiring and are using the same cable to the new starter as went to the stock then its going to be a matter of a bad wire, bad ignition switch, bad battery, or bad starter. Jump the starter and see what happens

Long screw driver is my favorite choice for jumping the starter. Touch it between the two terminals (One terminal has the fat wire straight to the battery, one terminal has a small wire from ignition switch). How did you check the battery? If you have some form of voltmeter then use it on the starter, put it on the terminal with the small wire and see if that has volts when you crank the car. If the hammer trick works then know your starter is on the way out, If you don't have any form of heat shielding on your starter and wires you should probably get some. Could be bad ground wire as well, could be corroded to crap inside and you cant see it.

Lol you need to learn to troubleshoot.First off no click click click and no cranking I assume? Second off you have checked your battery voltage I assume? Third this car has actually started in the past I assume (and how long ago last?) Fourth you have checked for voltage at the starter I assume?

Restored/ working ones sell for $700. There are the purists of us that want all original, and these radios are drying up. I sold my working one and used the money to buy all new gear with plenty left over.

Hurry up and finish that thing, you have no idea what your missing out on yet!

I used this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-38MM-WATER-RADIATOR-HOSE-JOINT-COUPLER-ADAPTER-PIPE-FOR-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-D-/190848534786?hash=item2c6f758902&vxp=mtr Same idea, real cheap.

The wiring aint to bad once you find the right wires, you should be able to utilize most of the stock stuff to make it easier. There are wires near the gas tank from the factory for an electric fuel pump, these come together inside the car near the original fuse panel. Mine had another inline fuse on the wire and nicely had a tag on it labeling it. The stock electric system has the battery go to the starter, then a wire off the starter goes to the main wiring harness for the car. Just hook your battery to the new starter along with the wire that powers the cars original harness (just like stock did it). Also hook up the original wire from the key to the starter to make the car crank (basically just wire everything to the new starter same as it was with the original starter. This will give you power to you car and normally functionality. Now all your left to do is power your engine. For this you need a wire that is always hot to tie to the always hot wire for the ECU (I just ran a wire off the alternator since I put my ECU close to it). You now also need a wire which is KEY HOT, this is where things get a little trickier. You will have many KEY HOT wires but most(maybe even all) will lose power on cranking, this won't work. Good news is that there is a wire that gets 12v during cranking, and it happens to be near a wire that is KEY HOT which when tied together give you what you want. These wires are the wires going to the stock spark coil, use a multimeter to find them. I set up my fuse block like so: -12V hot wire from alternator to fuse block -one of those fuse block connections to the ECU hot connection -power from fuse block to any needed relays -tied the coil plug wires together like stated above and hooked them as the trigger for a relay, use this relay's output to power your engine wiring harness's KEY HOT wires -placed a relay inside the car with output to the wires for the fuel pump, fed the relay's 12v hot side off of a 12v hot wire from the conveniently nearby fuse panel, ran the fuel pump signal from ECU to the relay as well to operate it -add another relay for each electric fan you have, power the relay off the fuse block, use ECU fan pin as the relay's ground Message me if you have any questions, I had a 73 like you do so everything should be the same.

Hey everyone, I had posted a build using Cxracings kit, just wanted to update everyone that although it was a nice kit the exhaust headers were leaking at the collector. They had told me that I could have them repaired or be minorly reimbursed but they have not taken any such action to do so. Just letting everyone know this so that they can check for defects early on and get them resolved. I would recommend using a credit card for purchases so that you can dispute it of they fail to uphold their side of the bargain. I was told to pay with PayPal as gift so have no power to do so myself.

FYI when you measure a cars power there are two numbers, the horsepower and the lb/ft of torque. I'm gonna give you some benefit of doubt that maybe you are used to Newton meter or something, but yeah you need to know that stuff. Torque is a measure of twisting force, it goes hand in hand with horsepower, it is also a number you use to know how much to tighten a bolt. Hopefully you know about this working on motorcycles that you can't just go about tightening bolts to whatever you feel like, they have to be to a certain measured amount. If I was you I'd be watching lots of youtube, and buy a cheap car to mess with. My first car was a 78 camaro, and looking back after having some money and working on cars for years I had done some pretty ghetto things to it when I was first starting out. Get a car you won't be ashamed to slightly butcher from learning on.

Usually when people say small block Chevy (SBC) they are referring to the pre ls motors which were made from like 1960 till early 2000, most common is the 5.7 litre (350 cubic inch), if you go to craigslist and search for SBC or 350 you will most likely find 10 listings for cheap. The ls1-ls3 are are more pricey, but they have counterparts that were out of trucks and SUV's that are the same motor but iron block and much cheaper. Those are going for the same price as a SBC for the smaller ones (go to Wikipedia and it will list all the different ls engine names from trucks and such). When I looked at RBs they seemed to cost more than the many Chevy v8s and usually make less power due to the smaller size. To learn about engines you really should just tear them apart and put them back together, maybe watch some engine builder videos on YouTube.