softopz

bump and update Downpipe sold 1x oil pan sold

@LLave you got pm Axles sold Have 1 diff cover left all fins intact.

A friend is trying to Register to the site and become an hbz member it wont allow him. The security question is whats 6 plus 6 take away one. He said he put the answer of 11 and it wont work then he put eleven, one , and 1 . I thought he was crazy lol so I tried to register him and I am getting the same error. @SuperDan please help.

Yes actually Iam getting the PM thing on mobile? what kind of browser do you have?

I think 30 please check the post You got text for axles

The wiring is the same for 3.0 and 3.57 boards all the pin outs are the same on db37. However if you do have 3.57 it will have an additional db15 connector for extra inputs/outputs. Also keep in mind wiring diagrams out there are good to follow however, there are some different ones. Specific to how relays are setup the one that was attached above is perfect because if engine is not running it will not run the fuel pump relay, or a bad crash god forbid it will shut off coils/fuel pump and injectors (if you stalled).

@Chickenman Is the man you need ! I do more of the hardware and wiring PM if you need any help on settings that I can help you with though.

I didnt want to put 3 -5 ads for random parts so there is some parts from different cars I dont have pics of everything but ask me and you shall receive. I may have lots of other parts please message. All prices are OBO and dont include shipping. 240z $ 160 late Middle console with fusebox cover very clean from what I can remember $ 80-140 2 sets 1 has cracked lenses i started to refurbish the housing and painted plastic specific paint. arctic white ( may have harness too ) $ 30 tach $ 30 speedo $ 40 middle console inspection fuse box lid (not fusebox lid) $460 ACT 6 puck extreme non sprung clutch , pressure plate with Fidanza aluminum flywheel. The flywheel has less than 100 km Clutch has lots of life ! recommended to surface all mating parts and balance for best grip. $450 R200 long nose VLSD oddball differential dont know what its from exactly selling for a friend. IT could just need 240sx/j30 stubs to make hybrid axle But no time. Made a post about it here. $ 40-80 several driveshafts

I seen this the other day its a fairly new video Or just getting lots of attention now. They did a fantastic job with the resto!

are you running the DIY trigger wheel it will make a difference in how you set it up. I imagine its not since you are only following those instructions based on stock wheel. Also from what I see IGBTOUT to IGN is not jumpered you need that. In terms of power at coil you are suppose to get battery voltage at coil positive. Secondly please tell us how your distributor is wired. Thirdly I personally set all my board to JS10 for ignition out ( i dont know why tuner studio recommends d14 spark out) maybe bigger board traces.

I believe I am the one who also told you they weren't EV1 but I was not doing harness's then . That works too lots of gm guys do that for crank and cam plugs. slots are different.

I have these for a great price!

He Responds better on Facebook or email pallnet@hotmail.com

I think you did fry this second possibly. Why is your ground hooked to the pull up resistor? I usually ground the CAS to MS sensor grounds (which is all internally grounded in MS) the white white to pin 24through pull up.

OR you could flip the whole 240z shift boot with flange and drill new holes. Another thing you can do is put a cork on that first hole and clamp it and make a new hole in the shift boot.

Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words. Anyone want to order I just finished 3 sets last month and I have nothing on my table now turnaround is 2-4 weeks depending if you get ECU or not.

Yes you have your TPS wires crossed looking at a 2jz TPS in a FSM will tell you which one is 5vref, ground and output. And you still have to calibrate your TPS signal in tunerstudio. Secondly Having power to coils and injectors means half the battle you are most likely not getting a tach signal (to fire them via MS ground ) or you are getting fuel and spark just not getting it at the right event. Everything revolves around the tach signal . Which leads me to my next question are you getting a tach signal during cranking in tuner studio RPM gauge? Sorry I pmed you concerning l28et distributor wiring you never mentioned to me in PM what your setup was . Before I make you a harness your problem could be easily done with a bit of research and help here on the forums. If you want me to make a harness thats fine by me to! You sound young we were all at that age and we just wanna get shit done and enjoy the project that feels like its been an eternity already . But seriously slow down, do it right the first time, dont cut corners and research research will go along ways! NOW go download the FSM for your engine, and even the dizzy specifically which engine it came from. TELL us how you wired your distributor. Also simple but overlooked thing always happens your 12v source for CAS input and MS input should have power when cranking!

Thanks for the plug I guess me and Richard don't need Google ads LoL.

You need the shaft and distributor yes. Oil pump not needed however the turbo automatics are rated higher.

Thats because your internal transistor on q16 (with green jumpers dont need all those jumpers) remove them and just install a pull up for pin 24. https://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/cartech_articles/280zx/280zxt_v3_igbt_wiring.jpg again go through the build manual than diy article. Set your hardware right and your software. Then set your trigger angle and you should be running.

Your transistor on q16 doesn't need those jumper I think its setup as logic level for smart coil MS2 could drive a single coil off that transistor you dont need the "prw-2 transistor module". The only change is to enable the IGBT High Current Ignition Coil Driver Circuit to directly drive the coil. Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN or the center hole of Q16 (if exists) Jumper IGBTIN to JS10 Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN (V3.0 only) If you do not have a BIP373 transistor in the Q16 slot, install it. That’s it!

Hey keep at it you'll figure it out.Thing with buying a board 2nd hand and that was used I Would I go over the whole build manual and see if first assembly was put together fine and do the tests just to be sure also could use a wash with alcohol. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm it wont take that long Go to hall input for settuping with l28et dizzy Then go 2nd article. Set board again go over and Q16 high current driver properly (looks like theres allot going on there but its hard to see) and hall input https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ I see that c12 and c30 removed good, also q4 and pwm idle control but why is c11 removed its part of the HALL input construction. Also I believe R57 suppose to be removed as well. Goodluck

1. What version MS do I have? looks like ms3. if you have 2 db37 connectors you are on ms3x 2. What impedance Injectors is it currently set up for? low cause pwm isenabled. 3. If I am set up for low impedance Injectors, am I using PWM, a Flyback board or Resistors? you are using pwm feature in ms board, not external resistors 4. If I am set up for high impedance injectors, are my PWM setting correct, or am i at risk of burning something out? for high z injectors you set to 100 % which disables pwm current modulating 5. If I decide to use low impedance 440cc injectors, does a stock bodied injector exist? (barbed fitting, same fits the manifold without modification) YES there are low z injectors that are barbs other than l28 injectors . I amUsing 440 rb injectors they are low indentical to l28 injectors it is Oring however I have it on hose and clamp. With my own barbed rail. 6. If I decide to use high impedence 440cc, can i just install them, disable PWM and tune? ( I know the answer for this depends on the answer for Q's 1,2, and 3) yes set to 100% and remove resistor box if you have one.

Just went through 8 pages such an inspiration especially since we got snow here in Canada. Lots of good info in the tread too keep at it! So did you end up using the series 1 driveshaft? Because it does have flange for r180

IF you plan on even reaching that 300 hp let alone 500 go dished and save yourself the 2nd rebuild. Matter fact go forged at 300-500 its pushing it and you want to beat on it for awhile reliably. 300-500 is pretty max for the L series I am making about 400 to the wheel thats with a stroker and gt35r/