Forrest

If money is not the issue, go with the aluminum. The turbo will spool up much _faster_ with a light flywheel. The issue is whether or not you will like the behaviour when the clutch is disenaged - obviously the engine is going to rev down quickly, not just rev up quickly. I definitely like the response I feel - I have a fidanza for both of my Z's.

The 280Z FPR keeps your fuel pressure approximately 1-3psi lower than the 280ZXT FPR will. That may or may not make a noticable difference in your mixture, it depends on your setup. You should definitely get a gauge, though - you would have immediately noticed your last problem. Manual fuel pressure gauges are not expensive. Even better, get a nice fuel rail from Pallnet with one already mounted.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837601606/qid=1112117655/sr=8-1/ref=pd_csp_1/102-6169500-8340957?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

Awesome! I hope you make many more!

I have helped install them on 15" rims before - it just depends on the clearance the wheel gives you. Dave gave us an exact measurement to check against, but I forget what it was - just ask him.

Clifton, I _have_ stopped my car with the emergency brake in several emergencies. Linelocks also do not give me the option of locking the rears up on a driving course for the fastest possible 180, either. But no one is telling you what to use. I'm merely stating they do not meet my criteria, and I stand by my statement that they do not have all the capabilities of the factory "manual" brake. If someone has some suggestions for a manual brake solution, I'd be very interested. I'd also like to hear more details on what Pete's issues with the spot calipers were, I never saw anything in depth.

It just means your piston seals will start leaking much sooner than they normally would, not that the brakes are going to suffer some catastrophic disaster. When I read the fine print on the linelock retailer's sites, many of them said "not for use as a parking brake" or "use at your own risk." If you leave them on for several days, I've been told they will lose their pressure. I don't think they were designed to replace parking brakes, so yes, I'd definitely leave it in gear instead, if forced to choose. I want the capability to lock the rear tires with a manual brake, though. So that is the solution I'm looking for.

If you have to ask, you should sell it.

Yes, the rubber piston seal will deform over time if hydraulic pressure is constantly applied. And actually he didn't have anything to sell me - I wish he did, but there is no bolt on spot caliper kit as far as I know. Pete made his brackets from scratch.

The saddest part of that story to me was the last quote.

You'd never want one of these for your main iron at home. I got one as a gift, but I think it's really only suitable for use in an emergency situation away from home.

I looked into the linelocks and my conclusion was that it is unacceptable as an emergency brake replacement. The guys at Wilwood said it is definitely a bad idea to use them for a parking brake because the calipers are not designed to be left on for hours at a time and they will eventually be damaged. It is obviously not going to help if you lose your brakes due to a failure in the hydraulic system. So I am still looking for a decent solution. I wanted to try the spot calipers but I think Mr. Paraska said those were pretty worthless. Maybe a manual brake on the driveshaft?

What are you using for a handbrake? Did you find some manual calipers?

Perhaps you should limit your corrections to the community that needs them.

No offense man, but I think that looks horrible on S30's. Especially on dark ones.

AWESOME NEWS! How can we add multiple Z's though?

Ok, but did you look at the replay with controls displayed and see if the game thought you were braking 100% when you pressed the pedal 100%? I have seen a ton of replies from people with wheels. Could one of you PLEASE check and see if the GT4 has working pedal calibration? It should be in the options menu under the "wheel" option. Run a lap, watch the replay with user input displayed, see if you're getting 100% braking. If not, calibrate your pedals and do it again. If you don't have 100% braking there is no way you're going to get the best times you can. Thanks!

Does GT4 have brake pedal calibration that actually works? (GT3 did not) Because the driving force Pro wheel STILL has the same voltage drop problem to the brake pedal that the original Driving Force had. That means you only get 75% or so braking ability, which makes it impossible to get all the golds in GT3. That pissed me off so much when I found out. Logitech KNOWS about this problem. They still didn't fix it in the new product!

The reason I left Zcar.com was not stupid questions. It was misinformation. That site is so full of idiots trying to act like they know what they are talking about, it's sickening. I have seen a few people doing it here, but it hasn't gotten bad yet. Luckily we have people here who will put the smack down, but I'd rather someone just delete the posts. This site is my last hope, so I hope it doesn't get worse. Even 99% of the IZCC goes unread into my trash bin now.

I was going to suggest ZCC too. I don't have their body bolt kit, just the engine bolt kit, but it was very nicely put together - everything bagged and labeled seperately. Two thumbs up!

Next week in the news, "Kidnapping coeds has never been easier thanks to ebay"

Moby, Glen's kit was cheaper than buying the regular parts seperately for me - and it comes with the machined endplates too. Only problem is that its such a good deal he's always backordered.

Man, what a parasite. I wonder what he's going to do that won't compromise his socialist "principles" in order to eat after he can't leech off the state any more?

Thanks for taking him to task Pete. Excellent reply!