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Invincibleextremes

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Everything posted by Invincibleextremes

  1. Invincibleextremes
    Parts breakdown. 2004 dodge neon srt4 coilovers. --- I bought mine for $180 2014 mustang spindles ---- $100 a pair, all day. 2014 mustang brakes.--- $100 to $300 a set, easily found. Mine were $150... What's needed to make them all work together is two 1/4 plates with 3 holes each and a welder per spindle. And a hybrid 240z lower control arm that uses a mustang ball joint. In my case I'm just welding a mustang control arm stub to the 240z one.
  2. Invincibleextremes
    Been busy. Anyways, did a ton of measuring. First off, steering knuckle to ball joint distance is the same. So geometry remains the same in that regards. Secondly, the tie rod ends have the same taper BUT the mustang ones are bigger and stronger. The solution is to use techno toy tuning 5/8 adjustable outer tie rods. The mustang spindle can be drilled for 5/8 with the provided drill bit. Or do what I'm planning on doing, and fab up the mustang inner tie rod together with the datsun inner, and use mustang outer tie rods, and not drill the spindles. The other all important question is wheel flange to ball joint dimensions, and they are spot on. My original thought was they were kicked out about an inch. I was wrong. You will need to use zero offset wheels with this setup. Or negative if you want to run really wide track. You can use 11.5 inch brakes and run 16 inch wheels. Or be like me, and use 13.2 inch brakes with 17 inch wheels. The strut mounts don't line up, but are 1/2 wider than the mustang spindle. The solution I have come up with is to use 1/4 inch plates to adapter the mounting pattern to the mustang spindle bolt locations. Two plates per strut. All in all my cost for this has been less than the cost of a pair of 5 lug hubs. So yeah, this is a no brainer when it comes to choice for me.
  3. Invincibleextremes
    For example... the cheapest coilover setup is 900 bucks and requires welding... or you can use bolt struts from a different platform... I'm trying to use the super 8.8 off a 2015 mustang... bolt on factory brakes on the rear, hubs etc... 40 bucks for a hub sure beats 800 for stub axles and then another 600 for companion flanges. The s30 platform market is saturated, very true. But it's saturated with severely overpriced junk.
  4. Invincibleextremes
    True, I'm just trying to offer the same thing, but for the guys with big hp who don't want to spend the current market prices for it...
  5. Invincibleextremes
    I'm not messing with stub axles. Gets too expensive fast... I can build a setup with 14 inch brembos up front and 800 hp axles for WAY less than what it currently costs to do the rear conversion kit from any number of places... The Nissan stuff is severely overpriced.
  6. Invincibleextremes
    Oh. Yeah, I don't think a spindle and ball joint designed for a 3,500 lb car is going to be the weak link in a 2,500 lb v8 datsun...
  7. Invincibleextremes
    Yeah, that's exactly what I'm thinking. A small adapter with 5 holes... 4 for the control arm, and one for the 2014 mustang ball joint. Not looking to push the ball joint out ... that would create camber. I plan on bolting a 2014 mustang spindle on with a 2004 Subaru coil over strut in the exact 240z factory locations. I just have a feeling that the wheel mounting surface on a 2014 mustang is out farther from the ball joint pivot point than it is on a 240z. I know this because mustangs use a 35mm or 42mm positive offset wheel... Factory steering on any car always places the center of steering directly in the middle of a tire... ALWAYS. Either with a positive offset wheel or by being very shallow on the spindle like the 240z is. I have one question. Why the Chrysler ball joint? What suspension bolts up to it?
  8. Invincibleextremes
    After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  9. Invincibleextremes
    Used a cj7 master cylinder to complete the 4 speed swap with a $99 hydraulic throwout bearing. Worked well actually and bolts right in to our 240z cars. Had to extend the shift linkages and make a custom shift plate to locate the shifter farther back but it all works great now. The phantom grip limited slip actually works pretty decent. Not the best but it beats having an open diff. The open diff really sucked on the few days I drove it.
  10. Invincibleextremes
    Completed the 4 speed conversion and took it out for a spin. Absolutely love it. Wishing I had more traction, but I can't risk breaking the stock stub axles.
  11. Invincibleextremes
    Yeah, except I'm not a fan of q45 or z32 parts, their strength or their pricing... I like the pricing of their backing plates front mount and mustache bar, in theory someone could just order those and the axle conversion they sell and get away with it on the cheap... except they'd be stuck building a strut. So more or less you're stuck paying the full asking price of the kit, which btw isn't cheap. And still need to source the short nose r200, and axles and brakes. I don't know know man, it just doesn't sit well with me. I like the idea that someone could buy some backing plates, a diff mount, and custom length axles and some cheap $250 coilover struts and be on the road with a setup that can handle 800hp...
  12. Invincibleextremes
    Yeah, turbo skyline and Silvia guys abuse those r200 diffs all day, should be ok, just don't get greedy with the power.
  13. Invincibleextremes
    Yes, it will all revolve around a custom knuckle. Just like the intrepid based setup, and just like the r230 z32 knuckle from Arizona Z car and so on. The key difference is the hub, brakes, and struts will all be off the shelf, keeping costs down for everyone, including me. No boring out a wilwood rotor hat or anything like that. Just off the shelf bolt on and go brakes, crack a rotor? Go buy one and be driving the same day, don't like your spring rates? Go order a different wrx strut and bolt on and go...
  14. Invincibleextremes
    That's amazing how rust free your car is. Mine is literally about to fold in half, but it's on the road and I'm having fun. Any reason you went with the short nose r200 instead of a longnose or a ford 8.8?
  15. Invincibleextremes
    The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racing and have them supply the 280z coilovers and exchange the bottom sleaves with the 2004 srt4 neons ones. Other people just use the coilovers they have and weld on the coilover tabs I also developed, so struts that work are basically anything you want. The brakes are either 13 inch rear brakes off a 2015 mustang or 11.8 inch brakes off a 2014 mustang. Both are dirt cheap, and both have a built in parking brake. I'm constantly updating the design with every batch, but here is what one of the components for a tacked cradle looks like. Pictured here is version 6, and the cradle bolted to the differential is version 4 I believe. *** Here's a picture of what it all ended up being in the end.
  16. Invincibleextremes
    Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
  17. Invincibleextremes
    Video of the sloppy flare install and me driving it on some back country roads and getting after it. Some donuts and mild drifting. Almost done with the 4 speed install and I installed a cheesy phantom grip lsd. Hoping it works better than the open diff did. Very excited about my stacked dual exhaust. It's 2.5 inch dual with x pipe the whole way, but routed to exit at the same spot. Looking forward to fixing all the rust, but priority is getting it on the road and earning it's own keep. BTW I will be putting together an end all, be all ultimate 8.8 irs set in this. I'm just tired of just a 930 cv conversion being close to 2,500.... What I'm trying to do is keep it under 2k with 800 hp axles and disc brakes and 8.8 and everything. Seems like people expect us Z owners to just bend over when it comes to parts. I mean 800 just for stub axles? And then another 600 just for the companion flanges? Sorry guys, not for me.
  18. Invincibleextremes
    Well. It's registered, and actually runs and drives and so on. Still a rotten pile of junk, but I'm hoping to race it in January in Arizona at the ziptie drags. Gotta buy acres of sheetmetal so it doesn't fold in half.
  19. Invincibleextremes
    I love this thing.
  20. Invincibleextremes
    I was in the junkyard today digging around, and the 02 explorers have a lower mount on the outer suspension that's similar to the datsun one. Was curious if just using the 8.8, cut down explorer axles and explorer brakes and all would be the cheapest solution... you would need to fab up a way to mount a shock to the upper ball joint mount and you would then have 5x4.5 hubs, brakes and all those kinds of things for pennies. And all for the price of less than heat treated racing half shafts from the z store or where ever. Last i checked it was like $600 for them...
  21. Invincibleextremes
    i love that. I need to move my engine back like yours but going to make do for now. lucky you started with a very clean body. not everyone got that lucky
  22. Invincibleextremes
    No body work done yet, but making progress in the drivetrain and wiring for sure. Now I can drive it anywhere without overheating
  23. Invincibleextremes
    got it wired, all the lights work, and it runs and drives just fine now
  24. Invincibleextremes
    Got the thing working ok and test drove it a bit, needs more trans fluid but pretty excited to see it move under its own power and stop..
  25. Invincibleextremes
    Heres a link to some of the videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ0SSsoQfh8 Heres a video on the details of the r200 swap, haven't taken the rear apart yet so no real info on the stub axles used but it has a cv axle conversion also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYyQUl9lzsg Also, here is a video of when i first started it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvImBdXvKCc
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