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Invincibleextremes

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Everything posted by Invincibleextremes

  1. Invincibleextremes
    I also stated in a later post why I will not be using the explorer 8.8, I'd be more than happy to build you a mount, but it's not something I will be producing full time.
  2. Invincibleextremes
    I doubt they're going to harden them. Really depends on the shop. And as far as welding the axles, I wouldn't do that. Once I start making serious power in this car I plan on buying 2,000 hp axles. They're only 1,400 so it's well worth it.
  3. Invincibleextremes
    There's a thread in the drivetrain forum about the diff swap. You can also follow my work on my youtube channel or it's Facebook page. Www.youtube.com/invincibleextremes
  4. Invincibleextremes
    Working on the rear at the same time, I should have it all together in a few days and have more pictures. The ball joint is the stub cut off the 2014 mustang lower, and I trace it and cut off the pocket for the factory datsun ball joint location. Then locate the mustang stub on the control arm and weld away. Next to impossible to mess up... there's nowhere for it to be besides exactly where you cut out for it, because you traced it in the first place...
  5. Invincibleextremes
    Splicing in a 2014 mustang ball joint pocket was a piece of cake. It all came together no problems. Using the factory srt4 bottom strut hole and placing the top of the mustang spindle against the strut when drilling the upper hole sets it up with the perfect camber at ride height. Just a touch negative. My only concern is the strut and ball joint are no longer in line with each other. It's close, but the strut is inboard by 1 inch on this setup. I'll be paying close attention to it to see if this affects the shock any. It's not as drastic as the factory rear suspension. But I'll still be looking into what can possibly be done about this...
  6. Invincibleextremes
    100% right, it's just money. At this point, some 5 lug stubs, drill the drums and be on your way enjoying your ride. That's really the most important thing, enjoying the cars you build.
  7. Invincibleextremes
    Gotcha, personally I would never have made that choice, but that's me, I'm not a fan of current datsun parts pricing.
  8. Invincibleextremes
    My advice? Sell the bc coilovers, and do what I did for the front, then use my rear knuckles with bolt on 240sx 5 lug hubs and 240sx cv axles, that way you get cheap 5 lug setup and also cheap cv axles that work with your r200.... The cv axles alone will eat you alive in costs, you know that.
  9. Invincibleextremes
    Have you been following what I'm Doing? I have 5 lug front and rear, and a monster diff and badass axles and monster 4 wheel disc brakes and it cost me around 2k to do on my 240z...
  10. Invincibleextremes
    Almost done setting up the front with 13.2 inch brakes and 17x9.5 wheels with 4 inch backspace. Going to use techno toy tuning 5/8 tie rod ends. And still need to clean up the caliper where it touches the wheels (wouldnt be an issue if i ised 12.4 inch brakes) and fab up the 2014 mustang ball joint to the control arm. Using the 240z isolator was easy, worked out pretty good.
  11. Invincibleextremes
    Just took apart the 2015 axles to send them out and get them cut and splined for 75 each. It's costing me a total of 300 or less for the pair of axles for this swap.
  12. Invincibleextremes
    Yeah I've concluded that I'll only be making the bushing version, and that those who want a hardmount can simply buy aluminum bushings... Which should be a win win for everyone. I'm back in Portland today and will spend the next few days bolting up everything in my car and cutting and welding as needed to see the final prototype. Yeah I've seen your posts on insta, it's one cool ride. Currently barely have 300 or some odd horsepower but I do plan on going FULL retard with it in the future
  13. Invincibleextremes
    My main takeaway from watching everyone else try building these kits if the pricing of support parts... a cheap 8.8 does you no good without cheap brakes... And cheap struts etc... Also, I worked very hard to design my setup as a one piece cradle for the hardmount version, and a 3/4 cradle for the bushing mounted one. I believe that the current offering from others on the market put too much stress on 4 small welded nuts on the factory r200 mount... especially when they hang an arm out to give it even more destructive leverage and put a flexible bushing on there... bad engineering at its finest. The isolated version will basically be what you see there, but have the bushings located above and in between the 4 bolts... seeing only vertical stresses, no twisting force. Also of note, in both the isolated and the hard mount version, the bottom plate is tied in to the control arm crossmember. And if the end user wants, the whole cradle can be welded to it, making the hardmount setup extremely strong. Oh, and it all fits with the factory verticals and the r200 mustache bar... meaning you can use a stock one or a fancy aluminum one.... whatever you please. Also means that it should work with sway bars, provided the axles themselves aren't too big in diameter... that I'm not sure of yet. These are very important things that I spent serious time working around. Can't beat 12 dollar rotors and 30 dollar calipers and the ability to run 15 inch wheels for slicks, if that's your need. Or run 2014 mustang brakes and rock a bad to the bone street beast.
  14. Invincibleextremes
    The ugly proof of concept prototype fits like a glove, both on the car, and on the diff itself. So far so good. Obviously still missing the front diff mounts and some other improvements, but the beta version is almost ready to go into my datsun. Its 2 inches shorter than an r200 to boot, so I'll move my engine back some... And no, the final product won't be hacked together with a flux core welder.
  15. Invincibleextremes
    Thanks, it was only last night when I realized I can actually have something useful for the r200 crowd, and not just the super 8.8 swap guys.
  16. Invincibleextremes
    Got the rear suspension knuckles designed. I was actually able to design it to work with the 2015 bolt on mustang hubs, and work with both the 1995 and 2014 mustang brakes. This allows you to use 1995 mustang brakes and use 15 inch wheels with slicks. Also, had no problem designing it to work with 240sx s13 bolt on hubs as well, meaning people will be able to buy just the knuckles, and use 240sx bolt on hubs, and disc brakes and stay 4 lug and just use custom length 240sx axles and cheap 2004 srt4 coilovers. The Longnose r200 and shortnose r200 have an interchangeable to some degree carrier which means 240sx cv axles should work if they are shortened. Win win in my book. This setup can be used completely to support high hp or just piecemeal to get rid of the stub axle and companion flange get up and be able to use a much better priced coilover option. Still working on designing the mount for the super 8.8 itself. I'll keep everyone posted.
  17. Invincibleextremes
    I have 300zxt axles in my 240z and they fit with the same adapter companion flange deal. I'll be ditching the whole thing soon though. I'm swapping to a 2015 mustang diff and hubs.
  18. Invincibleextremes
    Got the diff. It was 350 bucks. 3.31 gearing and limited slip. Now that the last piece of the puzzle is here, and I bought the wheels, it's time to start tearing apart my 240z and welding together a working mount for this.
  19. Invincibleextremes
    I bought 2014 mustang lower control arms for 50 bucks each, and I'm going to splice the tip with the 240z control arm, making a hybrid arm. I can't afford the wheels or I would have all this built already. Actually... ordering the wheels today, so hope to have it hacked together soon.
  20. Invincibleextremes
    Yeah, the fronts. I'm not really following you. I can't imagine there being any hub deflection if that's what you're saying may happen. These parts are designed for a car over a thousand pounds heavier.
  21. Invincibleextremes
    As in the rear stub axles? The setup I'm designing doesn't use stub axles, but rather bolt on hubs like the newer Nissan stuff. I think that's what the other guy was saying when he was talking about large bore hollow axles too.
  22. Invincibleextremes
    It won't move but sure puts a whole lot of constant pressure on the shock rod every time it wants to move... the strut on our cars is behind the axle center line... every sharp bump first tries to twist the strut, then the strut gives way vertically like it's supposed to... The rigid nature of the factory arms keeps the shock piston side loading to a minimum. Adjustable control arms that put a Hein joint on the inside follow the same principles and don't change much from factory in that regard. You can assemble the strut without a shock and it more or less stays in place if you gently lower your car. Assemble your strut without a shock with these arms and the spring will twist and may come off the seat as the strut twists backwards with the wheel pushing it up. That's not to say it doesn't work well, or that there's ever any issues.... That's just my reason for myself not wanting to buy one... I imagine shock life being significantly shorter...
  23. Invincibleextremes
    This isnt something thats really marketable btw, just an idea people can use for themselves.... I may have the 1/4 inch strut adapter shims laser cut and sold for $60 for the 4 of them to make it easier for people to do this, but this is honestly something anyone with a welder can do themselves. Monday I'll go grab some 1/4 inch plate steel and bolt it all together, and show you guys what's needed to make the dodge neon coilover bolt to the mustang spindle. Once I have wheels and tires, which I can't afford at the moment, I'll be bolting this up to the front of my datsun and posting pics. And videos. And later down the road I'll have my rear set up designed and built. The rear will require me to design a custom knuckle with neon coilover mounts and be set up for the 2015 mustang irs hubs while using 2014 mustang brakes (so braking stays matched to the 2014 fronts). So for a few months I'll have 5 lug front set up with 4 lug rears untill I have the rear to bolt in.
  24. Invincibleextremes
    I love that. Definately an inspiration.
  25. Invincibleextremes
    Mustang spindles. That's what I'm using. Same 5x114.3 wheel pattern. But will need modded 2004 srt4 coilovers and a mustang ball joint and some techno toy tuning outer tie rods to work. Wheel flange is spot on and steering geometry remains factory. Brake options get super cheap too. 13.2 inch brakes for $150, Or 14 inch brembos monsters for $96 per caliper and $45 per rotor.... Can still use 11.5 inch brakes and a 16 inch wheel is that's your thing too.
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