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AlbatrossCafe

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Everything posted by AlbatrossCafe

  1. AlbatrossCafe
    I'm in Bellevue. I have a '78 280z with an '82 L28ET. I bought it with the swap completed though cus I wanted to avoided that hassle. I tore down my engine a few months ago to throw in a bigger turbo, Megasquirt, injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, etc. and it has been down ever since. I probably need more help than you do LOL
  2. AlbatrossCafe
    Do a search. There are a lot of examples scattered on here. This thread shows a lot of wheels, some with flares. I would start by combing through this: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58528-wheel-show-post-your-pics-of-you-wheels/
  3. AlbatrossCafe
    Really cool. Love it. Never seen that swap before.
  4. AlbatrossCafe
    IMG_20180325_084332_009.jpg
    Beautiful :')
  5. AlbatrossCafe
    I don't have any advice for you, but I am super curious how this works out. As someone who just paid about $1000 to have my OEM turbo rebuilt and upgraded to T3/T4, I will be pretty envious if this works for you with a dramatic explosion 😁
  6. AlbatrossCafe
    Are those turn signals on the back...? If so, that could be pretty cool. I always felt the signals in the stock 280z location were hard to see.
  7. AlbatrossCafe
    yeah, it does. I was thinking the same thing but it came with plastic so I bought plastic...
  8. AlbatrossCafe
    1/8" NPT is right, with a 1/4" ID hose. I will definitely plug one of the boost reference ports on the comp. housing. Makes things way easier without that T fitting. Thanks!
  9. AlbatrossCafe
    Don't be scared! Nothing is mounted yet. The harness just fell that way while I held it for the pic. Side of the shock tower seems like an easy location and I'll throw it on there. Yeah, I would prefer to avoid a vacuum line adapter. I was wondering about having larger barbs for the solenoid. My concern was, if I add in larger barbs, does that risk running too much air through the EBC and damaging something? I was thinking it might have had the smaller barbs for a reason, but I have no idea. If not, this seems like the easiest solution.
  10. AlbatrossCafe
    I also have one I just took off a few weeks ago if CGSheen falls through
  11. AlbatrossCafe
    I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical? If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant? The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger than the one going into the EBC - how should I best address this step down and step up in size without a ton of awkward connections? EBC (#1): Install Location (#2): Hose to wastegate is different size than EBC connection (#4):
  12. AlbatrossCafe
    So don't think I can pony up for ceramic coatings, but I used heat wrap on the downpipe and ex. manifold and added a blanket to the turbo. Now I am reading that using wrap on exhaust manifolds is a bad idea... Something about it causing the steel to become hotter than it would if it just vented normally and causing it to crack. What do you think ? Is a heat wrap not recommended? How come the stock engine did not use it if it was so necessary?
  13. AlbatrossCafe
    I'm not looking for 400hp performance. Looking for a modest ~280hp or so. Seems like coating the ex. manifold would be overkill? A blanket is easy enough, I can add that to the turbo
  14. AlbatrossCafe
    Hey guys, Just wanted to let you know how my Gpop shop turbo rebuild went in case anyone was looking at going to them: http://gpopshop.com/ Before: 1982 L28ET Garret AiResearch stock T3 turbo After: Upgraded into T3/T4 hybrid with T4 .50 trim compressor wheel and Stage III exhaust turbine. All moving components rebuilt/replaced if applicable. Review: So far, I am very satisfied with their work. When they said "we will make your turbo like new" I was skeptical. They took my 35 year old turbo and genuinely made it better than it was when it was new back in 1982. Externally, it looks great. I decided to have Gpop upgrade my stock turbo because I didn't want to deal with fabbing up external wastegates or put in spacers to get something aftermarket to fit. The cost (~$900 btw) was comparable to buying a new Garrett hybrid and in the end I get something that I know will bolt right in AND has a warranty to boot. Also, their customer service was awesome. I say "Externally, it looks great" cus I haven't finished putting together my engine yet 🙃 I'll update the review with actual performance "soon"!
  15. AlbatrossCafe
    I According to Gpop, a new housing would be an additional $100-$250 and they commented:
  16. AlbatrossCafe
    Wow @seattlejester sounds like you obsess over hobbies like this even more than I do... haha. Get that fuel pump back in already and convince me otherwise! It helps when I can actually see something installed/in action. FYI, here is Gpop's response in case you or anyone else were interested. They quote $895 for compressor upgrade and rebuild where they use a t4 .50 trim wheel inside of the stock compressor housing. That would allow me to continue to use my MSA downpipe and internal wastegate, and it would be a direct fit (no spacer off intake manifold), but I'm not sure how easily that would get me to 300HP?
  17. AlbatrossCafe
    Everyone has a V8. I got it cus I liked the unique sound of the inline-6 with a turbo. Also, to me the classic Z car embodies Japan much more than any modern Honda/Toyota/Nissan and I love Japan
  18. AlbatrossCafe
    Ok, good to know. Glad you have checked on this beforehand. I sent them an email just in case. So basically I can rebuild or just get this: http://www.himni-racing.com/turbochargers/garrett-t-series-journal-bearing/garrett-t3-t04e-stage-iii-turbo-50-trim-450-hp And end up with a similar price point, but one is new and the other isn't. TBH I was considering the rebuild because I was just worried about getting a fake chinese-Garrett or something haha...
  19. AlbatrossCafe
    I'm in exactly $5,521.01 just for engine/exhaust mods at the moment 😓 haha so it's not that i don't mind spending a bit, but.... Here is my predicament. I could spend $700 and get a reliable Garrett T3/T4 or non SX Borg Warner that will get me to my power goals. I could also spend $1600 and get a fancy new Garrett with Ball bearings, stainless polish, etc. that will also get me to my power goals. But am I, as a novice mechanic and someone with almost no sports car experience, gonna notice a $900 performance difference between the two? Probably not. Newer turbos are nice, but how those translate to real-world performance (e.g. spooling to full boost takes 1.6 seconds vs. 1.3 seconds) is probably something that insignificant to me as an amateur. I'd rather take that $900 and repair rust on my front fenders. I think so, anyways.... From another thread, I think I found something that answers my original question... I also just learned of these guys: http://gpopshop.com/services/rebuilding/ I think I am gonna use their rebuild/upgrade services to keep it simple. That way I can keep my MSA downpipe which I just put on like 3 weeks ago Keepin it simple & "OEM" ish. And it is within a reasonable budget!
  20. AlbatrossCafe
    efr6258? The $1250+ one? Twin scroll would be sweet but way more involved than I want. There is a high chance I'll just stick with a modest T3/T4 or one of the ones that SeattleJester mentioned. I know it is "older" tech, but it is still better than the stock T3, and will easily get me to 300hp for a reasonable price, internal wastegate, and direct fit.
  21. AlbatrossCafe
    I'll have to check your external waste gate if I get the chance. I don't have a lot of capability to make anything custom so I was just trying to be as bolt on as possible. But I certainly would appreciate the newest tech that I can find. I'll start looking at some non T3/T4 options. I can't see ever wanting 400hp on this car. I don't really have any desire to go above 300hp, so as long as driveability is good that is probably enough for me and maybe I don't need anything super fancy.
  22. AlbatrossCafe
    No specific reason in this thread. Only thing I can think of is that maybe 50 trim loses a little too much top end power. Do you have experience with either?
  23. AlbatrossCafe
    So I have determined that starting to spool at 2400 RPM with full 7 PSI boost by ~2700 RPM (like the stock T3) is probably a little over zealous. I think that achieving full boost closer to 3000-3100 RPM is fine. I was just worried about reducing usable powerband since I have the stock cam and the engine falls off around 5500 RPM. Sounds like a T3/T4 .57 trim .63 A/R turbo with a stage III wheel would accomplish this from researching many threads around this site. Something like this: http://www.himni-racing.com/turbochargers/garrett-t-series-journal-bearing/garrett-t3-t04e-stage-iii-turbo-57-trim-475-hp @Chickenman you mentioned .57 trim in an earlier post... do you have personal experience with using a similar turbo? Are my full boost @ 3000-3100 RPM goals within reason?
  24. AlbatrossCafe
    I'm actually getting my MS2 harness built by Softopz up there and he is preloading your tune haha I stressed over injectors for a while. But I think 440cc should put me right at 80% duty cycle if I go all the way to 300hp, according to this calculator: https://www.raceworks.com.au/calculators/injector-hp-calculator/ Since I already bought them, I'll give them a shot. Actually you are right. I was looking through some videos of me accelerating and although boost can happen as low as 2400 RPM, I usually am operating between 3k-5k most of the time I am accelerating. So I might not need to go as low of a spool RPM as I thought. It is not necessarily low-end grunt that I'm after, but I just didn't want the engine to be a dog until it hit like 4000 RPM and then all of a sudden launches forward. Which Turbo do you have?
  25. AlbatrossCafe
    I've been reading up on turbos for over 6 hours between today and yesterday ðŸĪŠ haha and have gone from zero knowledge to some knowledge. I am a big proponent of "buy once, cry once" methodology and while I am updating a bunch of other stuff on the Z, I am wondering if I should just knock out the turbo as well. HP Goal: Reliable 260hp-290hp for application that is 99% street Torque Goal: 300-310ft/lbs Spool RPM: 2400 RPM start with full boost by ~3000 RPM (similar to stock!) Wastegate: Internal (don't want to be swapping anything out or fabbing external brackets) I think 260hp to 290hp is a little high for the stock T3 to feel comfortable. I also don't want to run a ton of PSI if I can help it. So far I am installing: - 1982 L28ET with stock internals - 1978 280z with '78 R200 diff and '78 5-speed transmission - Megasquirt 2 - 240sx 60mm throttle body, 440cc Supra injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump - Greddy Intercooler 2.25" piping with HKS BOV - 2.5" MSA downpipe to 3" mandrel bent exhaust with straight-through muffler - Mishimoto radiator with dual 12" Spal electric fans If I understand what I have been reading correctly, I want something with a lower A/R. Something around .57? I read on here that a user had a .48 that spooled at 1200RPM. That is probably a little extreme 😄. Not sure about trim. I would like it to be between $500-$800 if possible (no China turbos either). So does anyone have any recommendation or experience with a T3/T4 turbo that spools at a similar RPM to stock?
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