RebekahsZ

My LS2 was made in Mexico! There's a sticker on it that says so! And it is bad-ass. I better quit or we will get in trouble-adios!

Most popular is 7/8". Be sure to cut off the metric nut from your Datsun clevis and spot weld an SAE nut on it to fit the push rod that comes with the master. It is a bit longer than the Datsun push rod and you need that longer length. I swapped the rod and clevis from the Datsun master onto the Tilton or Wilwood master and it is too short. That requires me to use a 1" master to have the same clutch disengagement. And it is a little stiff. Be sure to relax all stop nut adjusters for clutch travel-failure to do this made bleeding my clutch a real bear (not the first word that came to mind).

Hoping to have the wiring finished today (man, my hands are sore)! Anybody got a suggestion on how to attach a "Remove Before Flight" tag to a tiny cotter pin? I'm thinking about a tiny spot weld....

I think the key to finishing so fast was: a good shop and knowing what you wanted before you started. Anytime I have taken one of my cars to a shop it has been like paying for storage.

I'm hoping to get on that bellhousing next Saturday-I will let you know how it goes. Wish Id read all the damn rule books before I built the car! Every one of them calls for a SFI bellhousing.

Only needing to remove the steering shaft and oil filter is a good deal-on my S-10 you have to remove the whole front cap of the truck and the engine to install the headers! I think I'm gonna have to do that much just to change a spark plug or spark plug wire!. You can cut that little cup thingie off-it is super thin sheetmetal-so thin that it can't have much contribution. It is also a good justification to let yourself splurge on some aftermarket adjustable TC rods which eliminate that big rubber bushing and you sure don't need the cup thingie then. Glad it is going well!

That looks great. You did well to cut your rear fenders so high.

Seats look great, and American laborers wonder why all their jobs went to Mexico!

About how much you got in it at this point? I've heard the expression: "you can have it cheap or you can have it fast, but not both."

That has got to be the fastest race prep/restoration on record!

My daughter is a high school chick. She thinks we are all "weird."

I'm looking at the angle on that inner tie rod and wondering if that is why mine wear out frequently..."somebody" with your skills should design and make us all (haha) modified outer tie rods to fix that. For free, of course.

The only guy I know who has been on fire is CobraMatt. My safety steward said that most fires come from the engine/firewall/dash and the flames lick backwards following the wind thru any holes in the firewall. He said that at 150mph, a tiny hole is like a blow torch. I asked if I should do anything back at my gas tank due to my stock rubber filler tube passing thru the interior of the car. He said that statistically that was a low-risk area and not to worry with it. I will be putting a nozzle on each kick panel facing in and forward to firewall. Then later this summer I will put one on each side of the radiator support facing rearward. He says the wind blows the foam backward and that sprinklers on the engine side of the firewall don't do much beneficial. They are super strict against any openings in the firewall, so I will be taking a roll of foil tape. I watched some videos on YouTube of race car fires and they were all under the dash at the driver's feet. But, none of them were crash videos-just fires that started during the course of a race. So, you can adjust brake bias both mechanically and hydraulically?

Send a pic with a piece of tape or something to show exactly where you want measured and I can do it tonight if nobody beats me to it. I want to compare apples to apples.

Thanks for the update! I hope to finish up my fire system this weekend. My bottle is a 10# and looks smaller diameter and longer-I like your bottle better. I got all my installation instructions from the supplier. My nozzles have to be oriented vertically-they aren't to be mounted on their sides. They are a different design than yours (Im not at all suggesting that one is superior to the other-it's just wild how much the products vary). My bottle is in the package tray because my battery is where your bottle is. My safety guy also instructed me to orient my nozzles I to the foot wells facing away from the driver. He says the idea is to activate the fire system while still moving to allow time to get car stopped and let the driver bail out of a stationary car. He was very concerned that I not direct nozzles onto myself because doing do might make it too hard to see to drive the car to a stop. I've seen em installed both ways. I too love your shifter boot (from a camaro)? And I like your prop valve location. What is the yellow knob?

I'm changing my pants after looking at the hood venting. Amazing. I see a fuel cell, but no cage? Maybe it is so well done that I just didnt see it. Love the wheels. Love the whole car. And let me guess, you got it off Craigslist for $1500?

One word: SLICKS! More pics of the grill/front, please.

heavy85-your PM status is BLOCK. That may explain why you may not have gotten my last PM. It is there waiting for you if you can get un-blocked.

I don't know what year Z you have. But if the fuel lines go up inside the tunnel, don't put them back there. Run them along the floor like a newer Z or you can even run hard line thru the interior. I put mine inside the tunnel. It was super hard to route them and if I bust a driveshaft for a fourth time it could wipe out my fuel line and the repair would require pulling the engine/trans. This is your chance to make the car easy to work on. If you race it you will break it, so plan for future repairs and look for ways to make them quick and easy.

It is a sustained turn that gets ya on fuel starvation. I have a stock tank with an internal sump. I can street drive and autocross down to the last drop but if a road course has a long left-handed sweeper (60-125mph), I need to have about 1/2 tank to avoid starvation (the right side of a Z tank is the big side). If I slow down, I can limp on around to the pits, so at least it stumbles instead of just dying and doesn't strand me. I have no idea of my G capability, but I bet it is less than 1 cause the driver ain't so great.

heavy85-did you get my PM regarding ECTA rulebook? Sorry to trespass on this thread, but sometimes the PM system doesn't work, so this is my only option. I'm also anxious for a follow up on your Pike's Peak preparation.

Battery box in. Driver's emergency panel in with cable and switch mounted. Hoping to get cables made up on Thursday. Hoping to be done with the shiny side a week from today. Sorry photos are sideways.

Why is it that if I park my Z for a week, it has like 50,000 spider webs gluing it to the floor? I can't find the spiders or I'd squash 'em. Spray has no effect.

It feels so good to cross things off! I got a few things done today that have been on my board for years!

Let him learn! I just looked at my build thread: it was 3 months from my first post till I yanked my L24 and got started. I think it was 2 winters before it got done. Everybody thought my initial questions were stupid till somebody adopted me and tucked me under his wing (m1noel). Lots of others just wanted to tell me how stupid I was. Internet "friends!" Try to find somebody who will drop his fork at supper to run out to his car and get you a measurement-that's the guy to talk to.