clarkspeed

I've been thinking about some front control arm ideas for a new race car that I am building (future build thread). I wanted to use as many off the shelf circle track parts as possible. This combo seems to work. 1. Allstar 56292 Screw in Ball joint Holder http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=221&part=ALL56292&add=no 2. Moog K772 style ball joint, many options including adjustable and low friction. 3. Combine with swaged tubing, clevis, and rodends of course for the CA and TC rod The steering knuckle needs to be modified with 1.5"/ft (7deg) ball joint reamer and my aluminum bump steer spacers would need a little work to get the nut to clear. I haven't checked if this combo interferes with rotor or wheel yet. Any thoughts?

Where can one get a Quatermaster twin disc setup for $500?

The old Nissan Motorsport set up pulled oil from side of the pan straight into pump bypassing the block feed. I like this idea but have been unable to source the pump plate to convert. But I've had no problems with my motorsport oil pan and accusump combo with fresh turbo pump. You can lighten the rockers yourself. I trimmed and polished like the "how to modify" book. I won't comment too much on the tensoiner other than I have yet to encounter a problem where such an engineered solution is required for road race applications.

With around 250hp good tune and running 10/10 I burn around 4 gal in 20 minutes.

That's my white #62 next to Tom's car. I won 2nd place for 260z, not sure why, Tom's car looks much nicer than mine. Nice event held at a beautiful location.

We are bringing out the race cars. All prepped and ready for Daytona. Hope it doesn't rain.

Thanks for testing. Any wagers?

I wouldn't run those screens in the picture above. They look very restrictive.

I agree, and will not even begin to elaborate on my Chinese contracts. Atypical yes, but impossible to procure there, no. Although everyone still underestimates the time and investment required, MSD's problem?

Well my Chinese sourced Ipad and Iphone work just fine. Anyway, I hope they pull through and continue to develop products.

Fine work and good payback.

You have a big problem somewhere that has nothing to do with internal vs. External oiling of cam. Even a small amount of oil pressure up top should prevent this damage. Either a blockage or path that allows oil to escape. Does the cam have the ends plugged?

I saw 3 around 5-6 months ago. Haven't been looking much since I ended up buying a partial tube frame tub as my next project. IT forums, SCCA forums, eBay, and racing junk, are all good sources.

I say be patient and buy a car already set up for what you intend to do. Race cars sell for pennies for what it takes to build one. And less risk of a stalled project. I still see decent IT cars going for 5-8k. Easy place to start.

They will actually wear much more driven on street with agressive street pads. And set em up with no runout. Of course your milage may vary.

It's amazing how much those giant finned rotors disapate heat. Just look at the difference compared to stock. On my previous car well under 200 HP, I never ran ducts on open track days. Or changed pads or rotors for that matter for a few years. They are really overkill for most apps.

Why would you cut corners on a piece of safety equipment? Is it just for looks? Do chicks dig it?

With those huge Arizona brakes, you may not even need ducting unless you are REALLY working it on track. I had to plug my ducts for autox. Depends on the pads you run. Full race pads need a little heat.

Yes

Don't worry about leaks. They don't. Probably more depends on where you mount your valve. The tank will need to "fill" the line from valve to engine once it opens. Else it won't be much help on start up. And that's a long length of 3/4 hose, so more oil in the total system. Mine is mounted in floor just in front of passenger seat with manual valve. In operation it gets hot, so I wrapped with a little header tape. The passenger footwell is another option or under the cowl.

Trackmaster is the best one I have seen. I haven't tried it with the Bluetooth GPS but people claim good results. It's not accurate enough with built in phone GPS (neither is Harry's). I has a ton of functionality, even gives you lap times through an earpiece. Kind of like a Traqmate lite. J There are many apps that will give you speed, direction, etc.

They work fine in stock housings if you solve the gland nut problem. Just don't lower the car too much. I'm using 400# springs on the front with no problems.

I had them at 300/100 for a couple years. A little too stiff but I ran them anyway. I took more weight out of car AND went up in spring rates last year and found they were undrivable. I gave Bilstein all my data including motion ratios, sprung, and unsrrung weight. They feel great now. The valving they came back with almost exactly where I would have guessed and strangly enough, the same as I calculated from some equation I found on internet. I like the Bilsteins, it would be nice if they were adjustable, but they are practically indestructible.

I think I paid $80 for my last Bilstein revalve few months ago. And they will surely handle more than 250# springs.

Yes, I've read it before. And I've been using ospho for many years with good results. But especiallly when applying 2 or more coats, I sometimes end up with a black Goo that it highly acidic lurking in hard to reach corners.