clarkspeed

Thanks for testing. Any wagers?

I wouldn't run those screens in the picture above. They look very restrictive.

I agree, and will not even begin to elaborate on my Chinese contracts. Atypical yes, but impossible to procure there, no. Although everyone still underestimates the time and investment required, MSD's problem?

Well my Chinese sourced Ipad and Iphone work just fine. Anyway, I hope they pull through and continue to develop products.

Fine work and good payback.

You have a big problem somewhere that has nothing to do with internal vs. External oiling of cam. Even a small amount of oil pressure up top should prevent this damage. Either a blockage or path that allows oil to escape. Does the cam have the ends plugged?

I saw 3 around 5-6 months ago. Haven't been looking much since I ended up buying a partial tube frame tub as my next project. IT forums, SCCA forums, eBay, and racing junk, are all good sources.

I say be patient and buy a car already set up for what you intend to do. Race cars sell for pennies for what it takes to build one. And less risk of a stalled project. I still see decent IT cars going for 5-8k. Easy place to start.

They will actually wear much more driven on street with agressive street pads. And set em up with no runout. Of course your milage may vary.

It's amazing how much those giant finned rotors disapate heat. Just look at the difference compared to stock. On my previous car well under 200 HP, I never ran ducts on open track days. Or changed pads or rotors for that matter for a few years. They are really overkill for most apps.

Why would you cut corners on a piece of safety equipment? Is it just for looks? Do chicks dig it?

With those huge Arizona brakes, you may not even need ducting unless you are REALLY working it on track. I had to plug my ducts for autox. Depends on the pads you run. Full race pads need a little heat.

Yes

Don't worry about leaks. They don't. Probably more depends on where you mount your valve. The tank will need to "fill" the line from valve to engine once it opens. Else it won't be much help on start up. And that's a long length of 3/4 hose, so more oil in the total system. Mine is mounted in floor just in front of passenger seat with manual valve. In operation it gets hot, so I wrapped with a little header tape. The passenger footwell is another option or under the cowl.

Trackmaster is the best one I have seen. I haven't tried it with the Bluetooth GPS but people claim good results. It's not accurate enough with built in phone GPS (neither is Harry's). I has a ton of functionality, even gives you lap times through an earpiece. Kind of like a Traqmate lite. J There are many apps that will give you speed, direction, etc.

They work fine in stock housings if you solve the gland nut problem. Just don't lower the car too much. I'm using 400# springs on the front with no problems.

I had them at 300/100 for a couple years. A little too stiff but I ran them anyway. I took more weight out of car AND went up in spring rates last year and found they were undrivable. I gave Bilstein all my data including motion ratios, sprung, and unsrrung weight. They feel great now. The valving they came back with almost exactly where I would have guessed and strangly enough, the same as I calculated from some equation I found on internet. I like the Bilsteins, it would be nice if they were adjustable, but they are practically indestructible.

I think I paid $80 for my last Bilstein revalve few months ago. And they will surely handle more than 250# springs.

Yes, I've read it before. And I've been using ospho for many years with good results. But especiallly when applying 2 or more coats, I sometimes end up with a black Goo that it highly acidic lurking in hard to reach corners.

I purchased a Thermal Arc 181i a few weeks ago. So far this has been a really nice machine for a little less cash than miller/lincoln. Like night and day different than the cheap HF stuff. As noted, stay away from the 110v stuff.

I have a question. What do you do to clean away the excess leftover ospho before you primer. I have some large areas to treat and there always seems to be some residue in difficult to reach areas.

I raced my Z for 5 years 3-4 times a year. Never missed a race or practice session. 100% reliable. The last 1-1/2 years I don't think I've finished a full 20 minute race or practice. The only sessions I finished were red flagged. And race weekends and not a small investment. I Fix what breaks and move to the next one. I don't dwell on it I know reliability will come back because I build for it. I appears you did also. Sometimes it takes some time get the bugs out. Everyone I know goes through the cycle.

Sam at LNA has dyno tested many NA L6 race combos. He said windage tray helps HP, crank scrapers do not.

I have an old nissan comp oil pan and 3 qt accusump. No problems.

Brakes are all about heat management. It's the tires that stop you. So if you are really driving hard, you have to get rid of the heat. Cooling ducts, high temp fluid, track pads, cyro rotors, etc all help with a stock setup, pad thickness and rotor thickness are most critical. Larger rotors and calipers make a big difference but may be against rules.