SleeperZ

Good stuff Zgad. I'm planning to install my cam/valve relieved P90 along with some ARP studs in the next couple of weeks. I don't know if I'll get to a dyno, but I'm curious to see if the cam helps or hurts my current system. It's the Schneider cam, stage II from MSA I believe. Since I'm running a factory ECCS with the fuel cut at 6400 rpm, I may lose low end, and not be able to use the top. We'll see anyway.

Yep, that and some wiring.

Base pressure (37) + boost pressure (18) = 55 psi would be the standard answer, but set it to where it needs to be so you don't detonate. I would think you should bump the base up quite a bit - 18psi on a T3 is HOT HOT HOT.

Wow! It sounds like you are covering your bases, good luck with it, it sounds awesome!

Nice. Not many V8r's can keep up with the hair dryers here at altitude. A V8 Z is a rarety here, only one I've ever seen at the strip wasn't running right. Come on, MobytheVan, bring it!

My turbo is a stock T3 turbine with a V1/V2 compressor. Close enough? It runs real well.

Wow, Terry, I love the finished product! It's all been said, "awesome", "beautiful", "spectactular", "gorgeous", but I just feel it should be said again. Nice job, and congratulations.

That's what the only problem with the Buick engine is - to do what Scottie did you really need a better rear end ratio - if you could score a rare 3.36 R200 you are most of the way there, but a 3.07 or so would be ideal and that requires $$. Supra is very nice too, but for that engine I'd want to go with the 6-speed tranny. No issue with rear end ratios with that redline.

It's so much easier to put in the bigger injectors. You increase fuel pressure absurd amounts just to spray through factory squirters. What I did was not that hard (once I converted to a MAF). Bigger injectors + bigger intake pipe = more power at stock fuel pressure and factory driveability.

Turbos are fun. Period, no buts.

I've never had any problems with standard pan gaskets from FelPro and a bit of Form-A-Gasket. And I've never had any luck with silicone. My Subaru needed a pan gasket, the factory never made or installed one - they recommended a silicone of some sort. I made a gasket for it, and sealed that with Form-A-Gasket too. So far, so good.

Great fun! I love beating up on V8s; they seem to still think the imports and different ways of making power still cannot compare. The dumbfounded looks are priceless!

Yeah, I'll unbolt the master, as I've already checked the slave. It's real nice having it right on top of the engine - I don't even have to remove the airbox to get to it.

Well I'm inclined to guess the air is getting in behind the master, as if there were a place for air to get in anywhere else, it would squirt fluid when the clutch is disengaged. Just thinking out loud here...

Stock injectors with a stock engine can be pushed to 12-14 psi boost, depending on your fuel pressure, the efficiency of your turbo and intercooler, and the quality of your tuning.

I'm resurrecting this thread to ask a question about troubleshooting the hydraulic clutch. It was the only thread I can find, searching the brake forum, on the hydraulic clutch. My problem isn't with my Z, but it might as well be, as the Subaru clutch seems identical. The problem is the clutch will slowly lose travel. I can bleed the slave, and it will work again, for a while (a week or so). There seems to be no fluid loss, just air getting pumped in. Where is the fault more likely - the slave or the master? I'd rather not shotgun it if I can help it. Thanks.

I drag race my Z. I put the FPR on the right fender just behind the stock fuel filter location. The firewall is a dangerous place for at least two reasons. A clutch or bellhousing explosion will shred the firewall taking out the FPR. An accident can push the engine into the FPR. Both will spray fuel and fire, possibly killing the occupants. I would also recommend using braided NHRA approved fuel line to plumb the rail, as that hose must pass behind the engine and across the bell housing in a typical installation.

3" works great - don't let anyone tell you otherwise. No such thing as too much flow in a turbo exhaust.

Lol! Neither did I. I can attest to the driving high part too, no big deal. In college I actually had the sight thing happen too - some extra strong $hit my friend's uncle grew in his basement. It was like watching an empty B&W television channel for 30 seconds!

Wow, I would not have thought they were so sensitive...

Sorry, But, I read today while waiting at the dentist office (forever) that the Z06 does 12.5's stock. I can't remember the magazine at the moment. Best I've seen a stock Z06 do here at 5800' is a 13.4. I kill Z06s with my setup up here.

I've removed the oil pan without removing the engine or tranny, or the crossmembers. If you raise the engine off the mounts and inch or two, and drop the pan as far as possible, you can squeeze a hand in to remove the pickup. The the pan will slide out without a whole lot more trouble. This was on a 280Z though, not sure if it was a turbo engine - the bottom ends are the same, pan and pickup-wise aren't they?

Woohoo! Freedom! I love classic plates. For the first time this year I have no emissions inspection, as I got my plates last year.