qwik240z

The floor in my Garage is made of 3/4" pressure treated plywood and that is nailed to 2"x8" pressure treated joists that are 12" on center and they sit on doubled up 2"x8" beams that are 6 feet apart. Very strong. They said it could hold up to a 10,000 pound vehicle.

Costco has one similar to what you are looking at for $129. I would not recommend them for any areas that get alot of snow. My friend had one and we gaot a good bit of snow and the sucker caved in in him. The round dome types can handle the load better. I bought a nice 14' X 20' garage from this place. Cost $6000 delivered and set up. http://www.leonardusa.com/carpts.html Here are some that a google search came up with. http://www.instantgaragesales.com http://www.instantgaragesales.com http://www.bettymills.com/shop/categories/list/Storage_Sheds/Instant%20Garages.html?source=google http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=portable+garage&btnG=Google+Search Good Luck.

Awesome Times Joey! Sounds like you are getting it all tuned in. Nice Job! I am taking mine to the dragstrip tomorrow night if it doesn't rain. Will let you know how it does. Hoping to be in the 12's. Stock motor, and I will be launching it easy as I don't want to break my R180 LSD rear.

Get in touch with Jeremy at Sanderson Headers. 800-669-2430 They have several LS1 headers on the shelf that have rear dump positions and also he can tweek them to fit. It may take a few back and forths via mail but I think you will be happy. He is really great to work with.

Why not just get a set of the JTR Sanderson LS1 Headers? I have them on my car and they are quiet and fit nicely and look great! Price was reasonable too.

Bill, Here is one on eBay like the one I bought. It says minor trimming is needed for 280Z but bolt in for 240Z. I bench tested mine and it moves way more air then the 240 unit. [http://tinyurl.com/94g63]

Don't do it. No Torque! I drove a 2.2 S2000 and it was still a dog around town. If you like driving at 7000rpms+ do ti. IF you like low end TORQUE, stay away from that motor. I thought about this motor for my 510 but the SR20DET makes way more power and is still NISSAN!

too bad you can't make it, Pete. Oh well I am planning on going. The guy that put my car together, Tony, is going to go too. I look forward to meeting you Jody. Yes my diff is the R180 with the 4 pack Nismo unit. Stronger then the stock R180 but I am still worried about trashing a $700 diff. I need to get a LSD R200. I have a line on a 1987 300ZX turbo for cheap. Long story on the exhaust. Paid way too much money for a mediocre system. Live and Learn.

Jody, I spoke to Pete today and i think both Pete and I will join you on Friday Sept 23rd . I will bring my Z and be very happy if i can run in the 12's and get it to hook up. I don't want to break my Nismo LSD equipped R180 that is in there now so I will be launching very easy. I have only run down the dragstrip once and that was 20 years ago. I hope my reaction times don't embarrass me. With that said, I look forward to meeting you and seeing your car blow away some American Muscle.

Sorry to hear about this Pete. I am glad you guys are ok and that the damage wasn't too bad. Also glad you will still be able to attend the Summit Point Track Day with us. Make em pay!

I just got one from the JY from an 91 civic. Looks like it will just bolt right in. I bench tested it and boy does it move some air compared to the stock 240 unit. Paid $15 for it with a guarantee and they pulled it. Came with the entire blower box assembly.

Just had a mojor problem with the starter on my Datsun 510. It turned out to be a bad wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Here is a post from a guy on the 510 list that I think may be helpful for anyone with starter problems. >Here is pasted my step by step how to diagnose your starting system (long >post) I sent to the list for the other guy. Do this and you will find the >problem 100% if you test fully as outlined. Will probably take you longer to >read it than actually find the problem using the method. >Peter...don`t drive anywhere without a DVOM in my toolkit > First thing. Get a DVOM (digital volt ohn meter). Radio Shack can help you > there for around $10-$20 for one that`ll work fine. Next, get a helper. > Unless you got aligator clips and longish leads with your meter, in which > case you can do this sans help. > Set meter to read Volts DC,attach the negative meter lead to battery > negative and the positive meter lead to battery positive. Crank engine and > note battery voltage while cranking. You`ll need to know this. Now move the > postive lead to the battery positive clamp. Crank and observe voltage. > Should be the same as first time. If not, you need to clean your battery > terminals. Move posive to starter end of battery cable. Crank. voltage > should be the same as previous. If not, replace the cable. Move to starter > main stud. Crank. Should see same voltage and first. If not, clean > connection at starter to main cable. > Move postive to starter activation terminal. Crank. Voltage will be lower > here than previous( has to travel further through smaller wire to get there) > but should still be with 2 or 3V of battery. If it is and the starter is not > cranking then check ground to the starter using the same method described > but with the postive lead staying on the battery and moving the negative > lead from pint to point in the ground side of the circuit starting with the > body of the starter and moving closer to the battery until a test fails or > you are back to the battery pole negative. If it all checks out the probs is > within the starter. > If the test at the starter activation terminal shows low volts (or likely > no volts under load..the under load part is important) then move to the > ignition switch. Back probe the starter activation wire where it comes out > of the plug on the switch (black with yellow stripe on a 510 AFAIK). Should > see within about .2 of a volt of what you saw at the other end of the wire > at the starter. If not, fix wire between starter and switch. Note here, > there`s a plug under the passenger side of the dash (RHD) that this wire > passes through on the way to the starter and is likely corroded if the first > test at switch failed. Check it first before rewiring the whole thing. > Moving on, if nothing has been found so far. Back probe battery supply wire > at switch (White with red on 510s). Crank. If you show higher voltage here > then at wire coming out (B with Y) then the switch is bad. If not, then > there`s a prob between the switch and the battery. Choices there are ; plugs > under right side of dash where the wires come through the firewall (look for > melted/discoloured plug); two splices hidden within the harness that may > have corroded (oh joy!..not), one inside the car the other inside the engine > compartment, more testing using the "voltage drop" method I`ve described > will tell you which one; and finally the fuse link, or it`s splice, at the > main starter terminal. Since you already checked everything else up to that > point process of elimination leads you here. > Final note. Regardless of what you find I recommend installing a starter > relay to carry the load for the switch and get full volts to the starter > solinoid. The nissan switches are not great and the wiring is old. I note > that the later Nissans we get our gear reduction starters from seem to use > much heavier wire than the 510 activate it. If you haven`t burned out a > switch yet, you will without a relay. I hope this helps.

Moving the Air intake is easy. Contact Mike at JTR. He has all the stuff you need.

Bill, I think the Cold Air Intake might add a little too. Hurry up and get that thing to a dyno.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Replica-Kit-Makes-Rare-1983-Spartan-Built-on-Datsun-280Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ7251QQitemZ4571686536QQrdZ1

That is great! ROTFLMAO! Thanks!

Very impressive numbers for your ZX. Congrats. Sorry I missed your run. I was there too and had my LS1 240Z dyno'd. I had predicted 300 HP and 325 Torque so I was very happy with the results. 317RWHP 365RWTorque and a super flat torque curve.

These pics are of my 240Z with 14" X 7" Konig Rewinds in Silver color. Does anyone know for sure if the 15" X7" will fit over the Arizona Z Wilwood 12.2" brake setup or Ross' MMS 13" extreme big brake setup?

I have one of these, brand new in the Nissan box, that I was going to use on my 240Z. I decided to stick with the stock grill. I will sell it for $200 plus shipping. Paypal is preferred. PM me if you want it.

Anyone know if the 15" X 7" Konigs will fit with the Arizona Z car 12.2" Wilwood brake setup? How about Ross' 13' extreme brakes?

That car belongs to Steve Neuman. He has invested over $50,000 in the car plus several thousand hours of fabrication and assembly time. Almost 300 RWHP too. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet! Check out some of the detail work! I wish I had the money! It is up to $23,225 now and I hope it brings $30K plus. That will move 510's up a notch. I have a stock 510 that I hope to hybridize someday. For now, I will enjoy the ride in my LS1 240Z.