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Come on guys, isn't it all about the money....not the viewer! It seems the latest trend (OK, maybe it's been going on for some time how) on the tube is DRAMA...idiot drama!!! It seems to interest the sheeple of the world anyway. Is that because they have no life? Understandable! Who in the heck wants to watch a bunch of whinning and bitching idiots anyway? As far as I'm concerned, shows like Unique Whips, Pinks, the behind the scenes NASCAR tabloid news shows, Two Guys Garage (numb skulls) should be thown into the circular file. WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO PLAIN OLD RACING?

I tend to agreed with ED260Z! The mount with the vertical bolts uses only one insulator (tranny mount), while the horizontal bolt mount has additional insulators at each horizontal bolt location for a total of three insulators for the tranny. Would appear to me to be a comfort type redesign!

So sad.......Not only did GM screw up by stopping production of the Camero for some goofy looking retro truck that is under powered and is lacking in sales, but now they're expecting to come back with this eye soar. I think alot of the new generation design/stylists only have taste in their mouth, because certainly they can't put it into a car design!!! Geeeeez, what's the matter with these people.....were there just to many compromises from the original concept to this abortion. I'm sorry, if I remember correctly this is the 21st century and we have so many wonderful aids and technology for designing cars.......I guess GM thought all these things would create an awsome car! Not!!! You still have to have a person with some taste to make it happen. Come on, Ford figured it out....GT40, Mustang, GR1. Oh well! Basically I think it sucks!!!

Wandering Nomad, FYI, Dave Rebello sells custom 50mm SU's for around $800.00 (with cores). He puts these on his 3.0 L motors (when SU's are requested) that put out 285HP. Just thought you might like to know!

Wishing you all the best over the holidays! You know you're going to eat too much, watch some games, consume adult beverages (and what ever else), beat the kids and kick the dog.....but one thing you certainly need to do is go drive that beautiful Z you have...it's the season...unless of course you're covered with that white stuff. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!!!

There are numerous good books available on this subject, but as to which one is better....I'll leave that answer to the track guys. But to give you a basic understanding of understeer and oversteer.....understeer is typically a result of frontend push. In an extreme case, the car wants to continue going straight. In other words your car turns less than the input given on the steering wheel. Oversteer is just the opposite. Typically its a result of a loose car (*** end wants to come around to pass you) In other words your car will turn into a corner more than you intended. Ok you race guys, this is not intended to be a technical explaination...just the very basic lyman desription. Hope this helps explain it. One thing I've learned from reading these books and from personal experiences is....the more you know about the subject the more there is to know and actually put it to use. It's certainly an art and it will vary from car to car. However, understanding the basic will help you understand why racer do what they do to their race cars. There are no hard and fast rules to setting up a race car, as driving styles will vary from driver to driver and track to track....hence different set-up for a given car.

I too am green with envy! I do however think it would look much better under the hood of my Z!!! Nice looking work.

They should make a little noise....if not they are likey adjusted too tight. When you've finished adjusting all the valves it's always a good practice to RECHECK all the clearances again before buttoning it back up. There is always a slight change that occurs to the adjustment when the lock nut is torqued down....just enough thread stretch to change the clearance you were trying to achieve. Also to be sure you are using the right set of clearances, as there are ones for doing a cold adjustment as well as a hot adjustment. Like the old saying goes (sort of!)..."Measure twice, cut once." Hope this helps out a bit.

Great bit of info on the defrost grid! Thanks Cruez.

I believe it's a normal thing for any CLOSED fuel system. As said, the fuel vapors do expand and with no where to go it will build some amount of pressure in the tank. Remove the fill cap.....release the pressure!

Man, that statement sure raised some hairs! Had no clue.....just looked like CGA to me! My mistake....but hey, I'm just an old guy.

John's question....Can FWD feel like RWD? Of course, just drive it in reverse!!!

Come on guys, it's just a cartoon!!!

Like Terry says....they should be fine with the stock axles! However, if you tend to be a person who likes to flog the beast, then I'm sure you will wind up breaking something at some point in time. The weakest link will always rear it's head first!

Yes, I tend to like the looks of this style of wheel. Come to think of it, I have a similar style wheels on my 1970 240Z.

I also have installed a full dash cap in my 1970 240Z and as most have mentioned....you can't tell it's a cap unless you look close at the ends of the dash when the door is open. I think the key to a good installation is to obviously do it with the dash removed from the car and take the time to test fit the cap as many times as necessary to insure a good fit. Sometimes you may have to trim a little here and there. Also, follow the directions when applying the adhesive and once the cap is in place and the adhesive has been applied, use duct tape to suck it down to the original surface.

Well, there is the option of building the car for autocross (if one considers that racing). Certainly not as many rules as say SCCA or NASA and the car could still be a streetable car. Just a thought!

I believe the deciding factor will be the width of your wheel. If you plan to use a wheel no wider than 7" or 8" you probably can use the 10" springs!!? Mine happen to be 9" wide rear and 8" wide front. Yes I have the narrower coilover springs and yes I have the 8" springs in the rear (275 lbs rear and 200 lbs front). I'm very happy with my setup and no I have no binding issues. Yes my Z is lowered.....probably as low as anyone would care to lower an early Z. I have just under 4" clearance at the front cross member. No going over speed bumps in my Z...that's for sure. You can see my pics on this site or on Classic Zcar Club site (under 240ZX).

289, Unless you want your Z to sit high or have your rear wheels sitting out further than necessary, you will want the 8" free length springs in the rear. The 10" units will be fine for the front but not the rear! Been there done that. I have 235-40 x 17's on 9" wide rear wheels and the 10" springs will be a problem...trust me! Also, if you contact Ground Control, they may provide you with the installation sheet for their coilover kit, that illustrates the required placement of the threaded collar. Of course tell them you lost the instructions...if you know what I mean!

Man alive, after looking at the pics you took when you started this project and then seeing the results......well, I must say you have certainly performed some magic! Your Z looks great! I remember when I was at the stage you are at and how excited I was to get it back on the road to have some fun. You should be very proud of your efforts, because it certainly shows! VERY NICELY DONE..........

I don't believe a 2+2 was ever manufactured in 1970. Maybe it's a happening car but the information (2+2) is likely incorrect if it is in fact a 1970.

It's not really what it's posted as! There is another thread that explains the history on this Z. It's in England and has been up for sale for some time, with little success of selling! Hummmmmmmmmm?

I would think that cutting the stock Maxima caliper brackets would be fine! Just do a clean job of it. Like the other brackets you mentioned, they use only three mounting bolts as opposed to four. It will certainly make installation time less. By the way, when was the last time you checked the rear bearings and seals...now would be the time to do them!