buZy

Battery tray. I feel your pain. Here is how I fixed it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122235

Ironicly guys our 1978 John Deer R70 lawn tractor finally thew a rod last week after being passed down in the family since purchased new. I'm bummed. At least it's ancient enough for an oldskool rebuild. Untill then hope that new generation plastic lawnboy push mower is up to the task, haha yea right.

jbc3, it's safe to say running 10's your car is wicked FAST! IMO those MM stubbies held up pretty darn well for how much torque has been applied to them. Another "consumable" item

Thank you Terry. Brian

No? Ok could someone explain that in more detail?? anyone? I am not a expert at this stuff and could use some help. Here is how the azc reads: Here's a typical installation of the adjustable proportioning valve along with the hydraulic line lock for the parking brake function. The stock proportioning valve has been retained and the rear brake line has been brought from it along side the trans tunnel to the new valves and then out through the floor to the splitter over differential. http://www.arizonazcar.com/rearz4luginstall.html

I also have the first gen azc arms. In my opinion the ride quality did not change much at all and was just fine even for the street.

Ok I am doing a brake upgrade. AZC both front and rears. 12.2 inch with 4 piston wilwoods. Also installing the adjustable wilwood proportioning valve inside the cockpit. My question is do I also retain the 71z oem rear brake proportioning valve? In other words...The rear brake line from the 79-81zx master cylinder....to the adjustable wilwood valve....then to the 71z oem bias valve....to the "T" fitting....from the "T" to the calipers. Correct? Sorry for breaking this down so direct but I just want to get it right, the first time. Daves online installation instructions are not to clear in this area. Again thanks everyone! Brian

Guy, Nice work! Absoultly Awesome! After watching for a long time your hard work has paid off. MAjor congrats! Brian

IMO the mount itself looks good enough. It's the attachment to the car. Maybe spead out the load more along the much thinner frame rail top and bottom. Weld and also bolt it in with inside spacers inside the frame. What ever you do having a little overkill structure in this area can't hurt a bit.

Cool thread. Has anyone have pics of the same idea on early style 240z? (I only ask as the cars do differ in this area.) Thanks Brian

Very nice cars Brian, wow!

97 F-body Camaro t-56 with Bob Weir conversion to 1st gen SBC

Looks great! Thanks for the vid! Brian

http://altecproducts.com/products_hoodduct.htm

Hope it all works out! Great video too. Hey maybe make quick vid of that zxt? I am sure you are very busy as it is but many of us here are curious. Brian

I guess the lesson here is ..Never underestimate the power of bad design! lol

Ok I dont know about the msa header swap but...Grand Junction is total heaven on a dirt bike! You live in a very cool place. Brian

Wow Ali, 130F now that is very hot. I'd say on days like that keep your Z cool in the shade! Good luck I hope you firgure it all out. Brian

Looking good!

Would not facing or turning the wheel/rotor/drum mounting surface in a lathe also increase strength? Properly turning the surface and blending that cut to the inside fillet radius which keeps the rotor hat on center concentric. This would reduce stub axel runout vibrations at higher speeds and extreme braking in corners. Every little bit counts right? I only mention it because ironicly I just had mine done like that last week. Not a race car, but having a V8 that screams to 7000 rpms does make me wonder. Wish I had the MM parts instead but oh well.

This the Jegs battery mount I used. Modified it greatly cutting down all the extra material as possible around the base and relocated the uprights to clear the optima battery terminals. The top part is made from .250 thick alum. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_75398_-1

For all four wheels the MM extreme package is about $1000 more than the AZC setup. Unless you have a dedicated all out race car that extra brake is not worth cost and unsprung weight. My vote is AZC. Less cost, exelent machining tolerances, in stock, great performance, close to stock weight with common replacement parts as you mentioned. My friend has a car with the four piston fronts and rears. The stopping performance awesome. More than enough brake for our 35 year old street/weekend warrior race cars. If you are ok with removing your parking brake this really is a great packaged system. Brian

Phil, MAjor score! (Big time Jealous). What's your plans for the new ride? Brian

She is family and that love means everything, forgive her...But in the future keep her away from your Z....