dr_hunt

That is cool vid. Keep us posted.

Specifically he states his or "others" posts. It's editing the "others" posts where problems arise.

You forgot to list engine size, and particulars necessary for a recommendation. There is alot of information on the net for turbocharger sizing, perhaps you could look around on the internet a bit.

Fortunately, here in NM we have 3 quality machine shops IMHO, Mauldin super service in Las Cruces area, Edwards Racing Engines (alb.), and Budlong motorsports in Alb. Edwards is pricey, but do good work and spit it out in a timely fashion doing famous name sprint car engines and high HP special engines. Keith Mauldin is a wonderfull person and record holding drag racer building and driving dragsters these days, and Tod Budlong has done top quality work on many of the fastest turbo ford mustangs in the country. The rest of which you are on your own.

From the looks of it, it would be great for painting, and not so great for suspension mods and/or fabrication in the front and rear suspension areas IMO.

Sad, but so true Grumpy, seen it waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy to many times! I was going to comment earlier on the HP numbers. A well built 383 will net 400 HP being NA. Under boost, I wouldn't be suprised if you get 550 horses at around 10 psi. I would expect 500 HP from around 7 to 8 psi. But that is my opinion. Back in the days, grumpy can remember I'm sure, aftermarket rods were a luxury item that cost alot of $$$$. Hank the crank was the primo crank manufacturer and carillo was the rod man to beat. A set of sbc rods would back then if I remember correctly set you back $1500 and so would a crank! Not so today, Eagle cranks can be had for around $400 and rods for $350. Cheap insurance IMO when coupled with a 4 bolt block and ARP studs. If you ever get the chance, buy a set of JE pistons and eagle rods. The pistons rarely require any balancing and are spot on dimensional wise piston to piston, real quality pieces to say the least. I have carillo and Eagle rods and both are fine pieces with the carillo having better quality and higher HP rating.

It's sad that tracks can be that different, the onus is on the owner, be safe! From what I've seen, when a track has an accident, whatever seemed to have caused the accident becomes paramount in the tech inspection.

IMHO it depends on the track and the tech guy(s) there. Here at my hometown track Alb. National which is and NHRA the tech guy knows me, but he pretty much goes over the car and every year asks me what changes I've made to the car since the last tech. IRS cars include most corvettes and we have our share of bad a$$ bowtie vette's running 10.00's. Some tracks are probably more picky, or clueless, or just don't really check much until they have a bad accident. At the SEZ that I went to tech was basically non-existant due to my current Alb. National NHRA tech inspection sticker on the rollbar next to the driver seat. IMHO and from experience most any car in the 9's is running a solid rear axel. Fundamentally it's probably a good idea although not completely necessary.

The sound of a cackling v-12 is friggin awesome, the rolls royce engines in the P-51 (hope that's right) are something to hear. for the v-12 swap!

Cool

I don't see your angle here. Ie. where is the problem that needs fixing?

Well, I hope it doesn't, for your pocketbooks sake.

That is not a small leak. Maybe try having someone stand on the brake pedal nice and hard and then have a look. It's a pretty simple system, MC, lines, slave cylinders (ie pistons if disc's, slaves if drum brakes), and it's supposed to be a closed system so if your loosing fluid, you definately have a leak. Sometimes drum brakes are hard to spot a leak in for awhile.

Now that's funny! :lmao:

Well, if your going to buy one can I get life insurance on you? IMHO get the biggest bike you can afford. I've had a honda 550 4 banger, suzuki gs750, KZ900z1 (yeah I know I'm old) that had pistons and cams and would rip it up. I miss the kz900 the most. But I'm alive and that's all that counts these days. Man my dad thought I'd never make it to 30!

Don't let it happen again, ya hear! I'm sure they have satellite internet there too, geez, do I have to explain everything.

What I'm trying to say is that there is plastic and elastic deformation. Jon picked up on that. The gussets are for elastic deformation control, ie. it goes back to original shape after stress, but has nothing to do with the strength of the bars except where they join. Makes it less likely to bend at the joint. If you get those bars under enough stress you will get plastic deformation, your screwed gussets or no gussets cause it'll bend right next to the gusset.

Your not going to gain much that way, a single thicker clip in a deeper groove perhaps. Bottom line is that g-force has recognized what I did, the gear angle was too steep for the mechanism that holds 5th gear on. IMO, buy the shaft and gear or you will be later. Just my $.02. Besides, is it better to wait, spend alittle more and have it right or do it twice with the extra bucks the second time?

Man, you guys have alot of $ex! The wrong kind, but $ex nonetheless.

Silent painted the mural on the wall before he painted the car, hence the many shades of blue. :lmao:

Nice car, If I could only have them all.

IMO the gussets are more bling than anything and in no way will keep those rods from failing. IMO if they bend then your car is totalled anyway.

Very true grumpy, aftermarket rods are certainly my pick, probably not scat or cat products, but very true. There will continue to be members that use oem rods and this is certainly usefull information for that instance when HP levels are 500hp or lower IMO.

I'm going to use sbc as an example, but this applies to all oem rods. When choosing to use oem rods, it's best to hand pick a set. Things to look for are. 1. small balance pads on both ends of the rods. 2. Absence of copper colored coating on either the big or small end of the rod. 3. Semi-smooth parting line along the beam of the rod. Explanation of why; 1. The factory makes the balance pads overly large during production and when the rods are weight balanced the pads are ground off until they achieve weight. Rods with small balance pads have more meat in the rod than rods that have large balance pads. You want more meat in the rod rather than the balance pad, makes for a stronger rod. OEM Small journal rods sometimes used in stroker applications are not desireable IMO. Small journal sbc rods are not as strong as large journal rods IMO. 2. The copper colored coating is a plating that is used when the rod was oversized. It is dipped and then resized. Scrap those rods IMO as the copper plating can cover imperfections otherwise visible on the rod. 3. Some people polish the beams and then shot peen them to identify cracks and releive stress risers, while imparting uniform stress on the surface of the rod.

Yup,when using the 350 rods you have to grind on the rod bolts for cam clearance. Rods 2 and 5 are the culprit, but you have to do all 8 for balance reasons. 400 rods 5.565 have shorter rod bolts and the rods are different on the big end, which is why they work as is. Bottom line is that the internal forces basically double with every 1000 rpm, so 7000 has about 2 times the internal stresses as 6000 rpm, so you be the judge on what you feel comfortable with. Next time, spring for eagle rods in the 5.565 length if you still have concerns.