Dudeboy

Nope, I did not purchase this book. A member here on Hybridz has detailed the pin-outs, and it has been detailed on LS1tech. But, I bought a Speartech harness to save me some time and headaches. There is quite a bit of free information to reference from on the web. (Street and Performance has swap info on their website and Painless instruction manuals are very thorough for there harnesses).

Here is a picture of me lowering the front end on my C5. This was a corvette "mod day" a friend of mine organized with a local car dealership. The owner is a big car guy and we had access to lifts and power tools. Bring your on parts and supplies and get dirty. Took off a stock cat back and then, I think we put a Billy BoaT cat-back on a that C5. All fluids changed, brakes done and lowered 1 inch. Ready for some fun !!!!

Here is the photo of the mockup for my toggle panel. My wife found me some leather like vinyl material, and I have some couch foam (fire retardent !!), I will wrap the panel in the foam and vinyl, then attach to the center console. Lights, signal lights, wipers will be toggle switches. I flirting with the idea of attaching the stock hazard switch to the panel. Once, I get back on my feet I will finish the wires for the dash, put dash back in the car and attach the Flex-a-lite heater/defroster. THEN !!!!!Finally start wiring the whole car !! Here is a small engine picture--I will get better pictures in a couple of days.

The metal even in my 280 is then, I left the "meat" of what the ears were welded to in place, pounded were I thought I needed to pound. EvilC , 1tuffZ can probably tell you better than me because they have a 240/T56 set-up. But, where I thought I needed to pound was not a factor, it was more forward (for you the bell housing area in the trans tunnel) about 7-10 inches forward of were the ears were mounted.

The battery area is some high heat /rust proof rattle can stuff from Eastwood. But, the rest is sprayer !!! I could have prep a lot better, but it came out alright.

NO. A no rust 510 is going to cost you (look in Arizona, New Mexico no rust good deal). I am from San Diego and there are still deals to be had, but they are not advertised. You have to put the word out that you are looking for one, and some ones brother are parent may have one in a garage or backyard, just waiting to be rescued.

24TZ, I have a 77-280z and 4L60E-- The 240 and T56 Hybriders need to chime in, but I cut those ears down as close to the tunnel as I could cut and then grind them down. Primed and painted after cutting and grinding. The area the ears were welded to is still intact. before after

Quick update. Preparing for the electric Harness install, and I am doing and inventory of what I have and what I may need as far as parts and tools. I removed the stock ingnition wiring( the key will only be used to lock and un-lock steering wheel), turn signal, wiper, light swith switch from steering column. Moving everything to the dash with toggle switches. Also, I left the stock female connectors in place on the headlights, wipers, taillights, fuel/oil guage and temp/volt guage I will post and document the electric harness install this is what I have: Summit Non-GM 18 circuit harness Painless Fuel Pump relay kit Longacre Pushbutton three toggle switch Assorted toggle switches Autometer electric TACH, SPEEDO and CLOCK- Stock fuel,volt,oil and temp Flex-a-lite Heater defroster. Speartech re-programmed ECU and new harness. Ford Taurus fan 64 piece Weather Pack connector kit Tools: Crimpers Wire stripper Multimeter Heat Gun Shrink wrap Soldering iron-solder Lock ties Butt connectors, male and female connectors. Wiring Heat wrap "How to Wire Your Street Rod From Start to Finish"16th edition by Jack Sweeden "Automotive Electrical Handbook" by Jim Horner 1977 Datsun Factory Manual (The factory electric information is much more easier to follow than Autozone printout, Haynes or Chilton manuals) What I need to get $$ **Aziza posted a Hot rod shop that sells Headlights with integrated turn signals in them. (need to purchase) **I am still on the fence about Twist machine paddle shifters. I have e-mailed some hot-rod guys, and they indicate it is fun and different, but it does not replace that feeling of shifting gears. I am alright with that (I have 6 speed C5)the 4L60E with B & M will suit me just fine. Will get the photos up on Tuesday. After some PM to some members, weighing pros-cons of time and money, and really wanting o get the car on the road. I have decided to sell the Porsche Turbo fiberglass flares and get a set of 280ZFORCEs' wider ZG flares.

I am in the last leg of my hot rod project !!!! If I were to do another swap to a Z, it would be a LS swap, but with a carb or pro-flo injection just to change it up a bit and or find a later model GTO or C5 with drive by wire. But, with your time table, keep your eyes open for a GTO or C5 (all ZO6 corvettes are 6 speed) change the oil pan and pick-up to F-body and your on your way. The LS engine is a great motor, however it is "butt ugly" and they make covers in every form and fashion you can think of to cover the intake. In my honest opinion (MY OPINION) The sight and sound of a carb V8 in a Z still freaks folks out at the local NAPA, Autozone or O'reilly store parking lot !!!!

gogriz91, hit it for me as well !!!! Also, It has come down to time and some times the priorities of money. Right when I am getting ready to spend money on the big stuff (fun stuff !!! ie brakes, tires, wheels ......etc) The house will need a repair, my wife's car needs repair !!!! let me not forget !! Summer camp for kids !!. I just had minimal surgery to my foot, so now I am hobbling !!! It is not my car I get sick of, just a little aggravated with life's interruptions, but that is life and I get over it. I have to disagree in one area, if you are lucky enough and find a deal on another toy (if married, the wife allows you to do such things) you spend time with the other toy

240z2nv is correct, make sure you receive the mount for a 240 Z versus a 280 z. I have a 280 and I am using a 4L60 E, so I can not find a picture of a 240 tunnel to reference from. Take a look at EvilCs photo gallery, my members photo gallery and those who photo documented the LS1 or 2 install. Photos and PMs to several of the members here made getting the engine/tranny in the car easy. With the photos you will know if you have the right parts and did enough prep work.

Contact Eric Neyerlin at Zparts.com, he may have the new information on the red Z above. I was in California several years ago at a car show and the original owner was there. It was indicated that they were the MSA "IMSA flares" but modified and trimmed. The wheels were Weld wheels.

I have been trying to figure out a way of doing this also. I have a C5 and belong to a local C5 (Corvette club) here in Georiga. There are a few aftermarket companies that make vette wheels (C5 & C6) in very wide sizes and you can get a complete set shipped for less than $1200 !!!. Are you going to change your bolt pattern/hub to adjust for the positive off set and chevy bolt pattern?

PrimadonnaZ, What wheels are those and size in the rear? Image wheels? Panasport C8?

JTR is the middleman. Sanderson's makes the headers for JTR (Datsun LS swaps). If you are correct about the size, maybe there was a part number error? Contact both JTR and Sandersons.

Cameron, I had saw this little diagram and could not remember where I saw it. I FOUND It!!! Street and Performance have a great install and tech pages on LS installs. This may help you: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/lstach.html Give them a call they can help you if there not to busy.

Back on it !!! B & M quick silver stick shift and linkage installed. I finally got around to installing some heat/sound insulation, Autopower street bar and a Summit driveshaft loop. Now it is time to do a complete re-wire of the whole car (Summit Harness). Install the dash wire up the guages, install Flex a lite heater/defroster and engine harness !!! ADD fluid and see if it will start. Then it is on to the brakes, wheels/tires, and body/paint.

Custom headers can be made to fit, but with the limited space having the flow that long tubes provide will be lost in the bends you need to make for them to fit. It is tight between the frame rails, steering on driver side--starter on passenger side. I have a C5, LS1 240Z is correct these motors breath so much better with long tubes. I having some KOOKS LT put on my C5, I will take some measurements then. This pic show how tight it is.