BluDestiny

The trade off here is pedal feel. If you have a hulk leg you could go with a boosterless bmc. I do not recommend that for any type of driving though. http://www.chasebays.com/chase-bays-brake-booster-eliminator/

Miky, you'r running http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html in combination with https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/front-lower-control-arms-240z-260z-280z? Because that is the setup I was going to go with, just with 16" or 17" wheels

Actually headers will probably be easier to service (it's much lighter and you can easily see all the bolts on it). As for the stock manifold, I believe it will depend on if you have the EGR port or not, but every 2 port "midpipe" will bolt to any other header. They don't change much is design.

Miky360, are you running the straight through RCA's? And how much camber are you running? I don't see how that would have been an issue with camber tilting the bottom of the wheel outward.

My bad I thought you were talking about the injector plugs when you said they were cutting in and out. I believe there is a member here on the forums (FricFrac) that sells OEM connectors.

Wooden pole and a sledge to pop them out. And heat the opposite side (the side against the brake dust shield). They are a b***h to get out if they are seized. These are the same as s13/s14/z32 rear hubs.

The plugs? why don't you just get new bosch style ones from ebay. They're like $20. I feel like the original plugs will disintegrate.

Those are beautiful. and the use of Vband clamps are perfect.

Ugh seriously start making one off carbon parts. I'm still waiting for a good dash and center console. Your project is coming a long way.

I'm confused if you are talking about modding the engine, or the actual fuel lines on the 280z. The fuel lines and tank will be fine for that hp. Heck even the stock engine management will support 250 crank hp. If you want more like 300whp then you should think about changing your injectors and turbo/turbo mani. I'm putting a 400ish hp sr20 in my 280zx, and I'm using 1000c injectors, a walboro 255 and e85. The tank had to be dropped and cleaned and new fuel lines installed.

So when you post a pic there are 2 parts to it, the actual img part and then a link part. You want to delete the link part since it just redirects to your photobucket account where the picture is.

I was actually talking to Todd a week prior to his passing about those axles. His wife said that there is someone interesting in buying and making the axles for the r180. So they will probably still be around in one shape or another. If not, as John C said Troy is using the same parts except the adapters. I'm holding out for a bit longer before I contact Troy about fitting his axles to a Subaru r180 with the stock axles wolf creek stubs (beta motorsports stubs).

Are they different from the early (70-71) to the later model (72-73)?

Yeah the early SE-R's were prone to injecting a butterfly valve into the engine. So check to see if it's been replaced.

Was browsing around for some beater cars and came across this: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5177528068.html I got in contact with him, it has 237k miles, motor has never been opened and he is the origial owner. AC works (have to flip the manual vent from hot to cold a few times, just like manual air s130's. Its probably worn out) and in the last 2 months it got a new clutch, axles, and a respray in the original color. That's why he's asking so damn much. He had it posted before for $4000 right after the respray. He only paid cash for the repairs (no receipts) and paint and wouldn't give me a straight answer on how much it cost him. Would $1500 be insulting?

Hi all, I just bought a subaru r180, and realized that I had an r200 in there. I need a Datsun r180 pinion flange to bolt up my driveshaft. Not looking at spending a ton on this. Shipping will be to 91505.

If you just want to take the drone out, you need a glasspack or resonator somewhere under the car.

Please let us know the outcome. I bought an unused set from around that time period. I would like to know if it's a batch issue.

I put that same exact diff in my 280zx that came with an R180. The axles just fit in. So it may be because you have the early style r180.

Crazy I just spoke with him 2 weeks ago about getting some CV axles. RIP

That really depends on the suspension setup you have. Are you running a lot of camber? are you going with the stock size ZG flares? How high up are you cutting on the stock metal fenders? For those widths, I'd run a 225 up front and a 245 in the rear, and then make them fit using spacers. You will absolutely need spacers. Most people run 17x9 -13 and 17x9.5 -19 rota RBR's and they fit sorta flush with flares and no spacers. So you'll basically going to have to add 1" spacers.

This project is still alive. Dropped the motor to be assembled at Touge Factory in Chicago, was told the head was damaged by Mazworks (used the wrong type of material when machining the valve seats). They helped find me a new sr20 long block, which I also needed the crank from (and misc. accessories/brackets) and they kept the short block while I got the head. Dropped it off in February, but due to issues in getting parts they have just now finally gotten the motor together (still waiting on lash pads). They are just not getting into fabbing the mounts, and will be doing a complete rewire for a standalone system. My car was dropped off in early June, when the main tech working on my car quit. Big plans are it now has solid lifters, will be using an AEM EMS (instead of my haltech), and will be redoing the fuel system for e85. Block is good for 500hp, and the shop says there should be no issues hitting at least 400hp. So that's where it sits now. My subaru is still my dd, but on a stage 2 protune. I will probably be going e85 on that as soon as I can get a clutch/flywheel combo.

Where did you get those s13 coilovers spacers?

-20 in front and -20 to -25 in the rear. That's with a 9in wide up front and a 10in wide in the rear. With those offsets it will rub on your suspension if you use too big a tire. Try to keep overall diameter of the wheel/tire combo below 25in.

+1 on the 90. It's like a $5 part and will solve any issue you may think you'll have with the hose binding, kinking, or getting torn up.